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Old 01-18-2014, 04:41 PM   #29
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[QUOTE=perryg114;1405217]I would not use adhesive with radiation barrier just tape any seams to reduce air movement. If it touches the RMAX then so be it. Yes RMAX is the polyisocyanurate foam with aluminum on front and back.


Perry where did you order your RMAX from? Can't seem to find where there are any dealerships.
Also are you saying to put radiation barrier against the skin or hold it back away from the skin?
Thanks Barry
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Old 01-18-2014, 04:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
Funny, it loads for me. Different browser maybe.



it's post 103 here:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f109...n-88673-2.html

"Network error" refresh or retry. Are the messages.
Have Safari as the browser. Oh well.
Thank you.
Lee
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:03 PM   #31
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Copied it into Google. That worked.
Thanks again.
Lee
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:37 PM   #32
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I use Reflectix on every single job. I swear by it. Heat from the outside is reflected back out and cool from the inside is reflected back in. It works in reverse too. Highly effective stuff. I wish it was around when I did my own trailer. I believe in this product so much that I am considering gutting my entire trailer out to do it.

Attachment 203836
For the end caps, I cover them before installing them. Care must be taken to not put the insulation where the fiberglass meets the rib. The thickness of insulation will effect getting it back into proper alignment. I use a cabinet grade spray contact cement to adhere it to the end cap. All seams get covered with aluminum tape.
Attachment 203837
The Reflectix acts like a big decal if you spray the skin with the contact cement, allow it to dry, then spray the back side and put the wet glue into the dry. Cutting things precisely is very important. I go right up to the ribs. Any seams are covered with aluminum tape.
Attachment 203838
I then do the wiring.
Attachment 203839
Next I install a second layer held behind the backside of the ribs. The aluminum tape covers all the ribs and gaps and makes it into a big ballon. The air gap in between the two layers is about 1 1/8". Once the first layer goes in I have to work inside the trailer with all the windows open since the heat from my shop light builds up quickly.
Hey Frank,
I thought that you were a devout Prodex guy? I stock both, & have used both, Reflectix for the past 10 years & Prodex only the past year or so, in all of the restorations we've done. Reflectix doesn't claim any "R" value & Prodex claims R 16. R 16 seems pretty optimistic for a product this thin, that isn't NASA spec, but who knows. I do know that on trailers that we used reflectix in, then filled the remaining space with fiberglass, the inside temp remains the ambient temp, with no AC running & the windows open, so when you touch the inside skin, it doesn't feel hot to the touch, however with fiberglass alone (my 59 Ambassador is a "survivor" & still has the original fiberglass), the interior skin is hot to the touch, even with AC running. We have done tests with a Pyrometer & discovered that in direct sun & 100 degree ambient temp, a polished exterior skin will hit 145 degrees. An unpolished skin will hit 155 degrees, so polishing obviously reflects some of the heat. Our problem is to reduce the temp from 145 degrees to a livable temp, in only one & a half inches. Plus we still have the thermal bridge issue caused by the ribs. I'm still "up in the air" whether the significant cost differential between Reflectix & Prodex is worth it.
Many seem to get upset about the potential condensation inside the walls, but I have never seen evidence of water between the walls, with the exception of obvious leaks or urine streams from vermin. If there is condensation, there isn't much.
Have you done any definitive tests, or is it more "seat of the pants"?
Colin
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Old 01-18-2014, 05:43 PM   #33
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Lowes usually has the stuff but the availability maybe regional. A place that sells siding probably has a source for it since they put that down first and then put the siding over it. You can use the pink or blue foam as well especially if you are going to use the radiation barrier. I like the RMAX since it has a reflective layer on it already. I think it is about $10 a sheet.

Perry

[QUOTE=goshawks00;1405258]
Quote:
Originally Posted by perryg114 View Post
I would not use adhesive with radiation barrier just tape any seams to reduce air movement. If it touches the RMAX then so be it. Yes RMAX is the polyisocyanurate foam with aluminum on front and back.


Perry where did you order your RMAX from? Can't seem to find where there are any dealerships.
Also are you saying to put radiation barrier against the skin or hold it back away from the skin?
Thanks Barry
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Hey Frank,
Have you done any definitive tests, or is it more "seat of the pants"?
Colin
I have not built a test chamber with thermal imagining if that is what you are asking. This system appear to be working for me. If my shop is 40 degrees and a simple light bulb heats the interior to needing to strip to a t shirt, I think something must be going right. The trailers I have done this way have all reported great results thus far. Time will tell.
The Reflectix does state an R value. It states an R12.6 if a 1/2" airspace is created. 3 1/2" of fiberglass insulation has an R13 rating if not compressed and filling all of the space. I do not use fiberglass insulation at all. Mice love it, it soaks up water, and is just nasty to work with. The ribs are always a killer in any trailer insulating system. They allow a direct thermal bridge to the outside.

As far as "seat of my pants" Yes, my entire life has been by the seat of my pants. Flying by the seat of my pants has been been very good to me. It has allowed me to try things I never would have thought of doing.
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