OK, I have the cabinets out and it looks like there have been 2 coats of paint applied.
The tan paint is underneath and is peeling off in many places. It looks like the white paint is sticking pretty good, but who knows how long it has been on for? I would perfer to peel off all loose paint and then repaint the entire interior.
What would you do? Should I go through the effort of removing all the old paint? If so, what product should I use? If not, do I need to "score" or scratch the old paint with sandpaper to make the next layer stick?
If you want to paint over the white paint, you need to first determine, if it is water or oil-base paint. Use some denatured alcohol (or rubbing alcohol) on a dark rag and rub the paint hard. If you see any white on the rag, the paint is water base and you could proceed with a waterbase type primer first.
If it turns out to be oil-base, you HAVE TO prime it with an oil-base (alkyd) type primer/sealer first and then finish it with a paint of your choice.
Always use a respirator (not a paper mask) when painting large surfaces in a confined space!
I like projects and feel that doing it myself and taking the time to do a good job is rewarding. Many time I can do a better job than a pro, but it takes me forever.
The problem here is I do not have the proper equiptment to make this a quick and easy job. I do not own an air compressor nor an electric paint sprayer. I also don't have a respirator, but they may be cheap? There is lots of wind up here in the mountains so keeping the windows and door open may work?
I am guessing a professional with the right tools can do an excellent job. Since my trailer is so small (Less than 14' on the inside), I should be able to get soem reasonable quotes. Maybe I could rent the tools? What would you do? Paint it yourself or have a professional painter do it?
Also, what ype of paint should be used on the exposed Aluminum interior skin?
Andy, I did a little research for you.
You know about the expansion/contraction thing with aluminum. So, an oil-base type metal primer would stick good to aluminum, but would be more likely to crack due to above reason. (oil-base dries hard over time)
Benjamin Moore Paint Co makes Metal primer thats called
Iron Clad Latex Low Lustre Metal&Wood Enamel,
specifically made for metal, aluminum and galvanized metal.
After cleaning the aluminum with Laquer thinner, the above product, applied properly, should stay more flexible over time.
You trailer was painted from the factory with a product called Zolotone. This paint is still available and you may be able to find it locally. If not I belive that Andy at Inland RV stocks it. You can get any color you can think of. I would also reccomend sanding any paint that you are going to go over so the new paint has a good surface to bite.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
"Stop worrying about the potholes in the road and celebrate the journey." -- Fitzhugh Mullan
Wise men talk because they have someting to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
In politics, absurdity is not a handicap— Napoleon
I have restored several Sailboats over the years, One paint that I got the most bang for the buck out of was Interlux Brightside Polyurethane. It’s a single part Polyurethane, can be brushed or rolled then tipped with a brush. Will stick to anything and lays out like glass. I have used it on the deck of my current boat and holds up very nicely. You will need a respirator. Check West Marine for the product, a little will go a long way. I will use this paint to restore the bath area in my Globe Trotter.
As you will see it's available in many colors & "fleck" sizes...even custom colors if you want. I have used Zolatone several times for commercial interior projects over the years and can probably locate a local (Denver) installer if you are wanting to stick with the original product. It's a great, durable finish that should last for years...however it is more expensive than standard paint.
Ideally, it should be applied by a pro with special equipment (not your typical airless sprayer) for a consistant monolithic appearance.
That would be great if you could find a professional Zolatone application person. I When I get back from my 2 week trip (leaving tomorrow) I will finish preping the interior and then take it to have the inside painted.
I was thinking of having a faux (sp?) painter finish the paint with a stucko look. If I have that done would it be over kill to have Zolatone painted underneath?
I would be overkill. The Zolatone is a finished product, it would be a total waste of money to use it then faux-finish over it. If you want a "stucco" faux-finish look, just do that & not the Zolatone. Just be sure to prep the skin well & use a good metal primer before you go to the trouble of a custom faux-finish paint job.
I have the floor tiles removed! Hard work! I would like to paint now prior to sanding the floor (in the event I splatter some paint, it won't be on the new flooring).
Painting Plan:
1. Scratch and sand exsisting paint so that either bare aluminum is exposed or the solid paint is sanded.
2. Paint exposed aluminum parts with proper primer.
3. Paint painted surface with proper primer.
4. Paint the entire trailer white.
Once the flooring is installed and the cabinetry is back in, I would like to have a faux painter make the areas that are visible look like faux stucko.
What do you think of this plan?
Do I really need 2 primers or can I skimp and just paint the aluminum with the proper primer?
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