Polyurethane holding up?

[HiJoeSilver]

Has anybody that's used polyurethane on interior surfaces had issues with its longevity and cracking?
I'm working on finishing my interior partitions and then cabinets.
I figured with the large temperature swings in the trailer and direct light exposure near windows that using spar urethane with it's added uv filters and flexibility being designed for outdoor use would be best. Using it has not been good, to say its thick and difficult to spread thin would be an understatement, i get it spread as thin as possible. It's supposed to dry in 4 hours, shortest I've had was 10 hours to not tacky, at this rate it'll take weeks to get this done so I'm thinking of switching to regular poly for the remainde but not sure how it'll hold up in a trailer. Looking for others experiences.
Thanks.

[perryg114]

You talking caulk or paint?

Perry

[HiJoeSilver]

Paint.
Stained the wood now applying clear finish.
I just tried thinning the spar urethane, can says not to, but found on line it could be with mineral spirits. It means that each coat will be thinner so requires more coats for same final thickness, but seems to be drying much faster. It spread much smoother as well. Did one side of a partition well see how it works out.

[perryg114]

It should be fine but I don't know about long term UV protection. I put the stuff on a swing outside and it lasted a few yrs on the front porch with afternoon sun. It started to peal after that. I would probably use urethane if I were doing what you are doing. I would think boat finishes would be the best for durability.

Perry

[HiJoeSilver]

Regular urethane doesn't have the uv filters that the spar urethane does so spar filters uv more since it's meant for outdoor/boat use. Regular urethane is more suceptable to uv damage, which is why it's meant for indoor use.
Starting to understand why AS used shelf liner on the walls. May have been better just painting them. If I get a few years use before they need much work, I'll be happy. I used pine plywood for now to get this thing done. Plan to change to maple veneer plywood when I get settled somewhere permanently and have more time to work on the trailer.

[batman]

I don't care for Urethane finishes on cabinets to much, for a multitude of reasons. There are much better finishes out there.
However you have started with that, it might be a hard to switch now.
Don't worry it will be fine. Especially if you plan to re do it in a couple of years.
I use General Finishes, Salad Bowl Finish. It has a nice semi-gloss sheen and lasts a long time (indoors). https://generalfinishes.com/retail-p...h#.VdkSrvR2G_g
Here is a photo of the Maple cabinets I made.
-Dennis

[HiJoeSilver]

Batman, thanks, those cabinets look good! Are the overhead ones on the right taller than on the left or optical illusion?

[perryg114]

Inside the house I used urethane on a solid mahogany table and it has been a very durable finish and very water proof for over 20 yrs. Do you really need better? How much sun is it going to see in a dark trailer? I don't know if getting some $1000 a quart stuff made with white rhino horns is going to be that much better.

Perry

[batman]

Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver

Batman, thanks, those cabinets look good! Are the overhead ones on the right taller than on the left or optical illusion?

Good eye.
The overheads on the right are 14 1/4" the one's on the left (street side) are 11". I built the street side has to accommodate head space for prep and cooking. The wife sill complains about head room at the counter, she is 5' 10". She loves having the storage just not bumping her head.
If I were to do another, I might not put an over head on the street side.


-Dennis

[batman]

Originally Posted by perryg114

Inside the house I used urethane on a solid mahogany table and it has been a very durable finish and very water proof for over 20 yrs. Do you really need better? How much sun is it going to see in a dark trailer? I don't know if getting some $1000 a quart stuff made with white rhino horns is going to be that much better.

Perry

$1000,00 a quart, white rhino horn. Very funny.
Salad Bowl Finish - Rockler Woodworking Tools , or Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/General-Finish.../dp/B001DSXD7A
$17.99 per quart. No White Rhino horn, really.
Use what you want. You won't hurt my feelings. Been doing this a while and like the results from General Finishes products over the box store crap.
There are other finishes that I feel would be suitable just not time efficient, Lacquer or Shellac. however GF has a great finish for the time and effort (money) involved and I like the results much better than Polly-urethane or Urethane. My .02

-Dennis

[Minno]

We used semigloss poly in the bathroom, and satin in the rest of the trailer. Over 6ish years for some of it, there's been no problems, and, boy does our weather have mood swings! We keep blinds down when we travel and when the trailer is at home and not in use.

Kay

[CRH]

Birchwood Casey Tru Oil will provide a durable finish. It is easy to apply. I put it on my wood table tops to prevent water rings.

[HiJoeSilver]

Thanks all for the input. What am I gonna do, who knows, probably switch to regular poly to finish up.

[Larry C]

I've refinished furniture for many years. When I started the business, I swore, I would never use a water based finish, nor those cheap sponge brushes. That being said, about 6 years ago, I bought a quart of "Polycrylic" made by Minwax. Mine was the satin finish.

I sanded the wood to 300 grit and applied 3 thin coats, resanded to 300 grit, and applied another 3 coats, then used 0000 steel wool. The finish is on a table top that we've used every day, and it still looks new.

I've used gallons of this finish since, including in the interiors of the 4 Airstreams that I've built new cabinets. It's a great finish, there is little if any odor when it's applied.

Take a look before you decide what you are going to use...

Sor whatever it's worth.

Larry