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Old 03-06-2013, 11:32 AM   #1
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1978 31' Sovereign
Colorado Springs , Colorado
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Painting vinyl walls unsuccessful. What went wrong??

I cleaned my walls with krud kutter and then put zinnser primer on them. Primer adhered just fine. Top coat was latex behr paint from hd. I came back to check on the dried paint and found this:

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What happened?? Did I need to use an oil based too coat instead of latex??



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Old 03-06-2013, 12:14 PM   #2
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Latex primer = latex topcoat and vice versa for oil, usually...what was the temp, humidity like the day you painted?

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Old 03-06-2013, 12:23 PM   #3
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60 degrees, low humidity. Good ventilation. So I need to strip that down again, re prime and use oil based paint? The zinnser was shellack primer I think. Just don't want to do any more damage before I get it right!!

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Old 03-06-2013, 12:50 PM   #4
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1974 25' Tradewind
1974 27' Overlander
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Hunter we painted our "78" 3 years ago and it still is holding up. Used Krud Cutter and rinsed it well. Followed up with Zinnser BIN Oil Based Primer. Let it dry for a day or two and then used Valspar Latex from Lowe's. Our trailer sits out all year and is subject to heat and cold. I'm not sure any one method is without it's drawbacks as the vinyl coating "off gases" and could be the reason for paint to peel. Preparation is the key.

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Old 03-06-2013, 01:02 PM   #5
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I've used B-I-N many times and it has good compatibility with both oil based and latex topcoats. I doubt if primer/topcoat compatibility is part of your problem.

From the photos, it appears to me that the primer did not adhere to the vinyl.

Be sure that you're not using "B-I-N 2" since it is an unrelated product that doesn't work nearly as well.
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Old 03-06-2013, 01:07 PM   #6
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Zinnser makes a variety of primers, including alkyds, water-based (latex), and oil-based. You have to use one that is best for the surface.

The type of primer also has to match the type of topcoat. Vinyl surfaces are best coated with 100% acrylic latex paint. Latex primer, latex topcoat. Flat or satin finish preferred, semi-gloss at an extreme. No high-gloss.

As long as your primer coat was adhering well enough, the surface is probably rough enough for good paint adhesion, so reapplying the correct primer (after removing the previous primer) shouldn't be a problem. If the primer didn't adhere well enough, after removing the old primer, roughen the surface a little bit by scratching it with a medium-grit sandpaper before applying new primer.

Unless you want the topcoat to be bright white, follow this handy hint: start with a white primer coat, and make each successive top coat darker than the one before until you get to the topcoat color you want. Not only do you get less bleed-through that way, but you can tell at a glance if you missed a spot. If you want the finish coat to be white, then ALL coats have to be white.
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:18 AM   #7
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Charleston , South Carolina
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Am starting to prime walls of 1974 Argosy & the alkyd primer. From Serwin Williams is going on like glue & leaving paint brush lines. Store said would cover plastics but this looks bad so don't want to move forward. Cleaned with TSP & lightly sanded& wiped area. Any suggestions? The fumes are so bad I have to wear a mask. If the Zinnser oil primer held up I think I should try that.


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