Paintin walls

dmadam · 11-02-2004, 10:29 AM

I am painting over the vinyl clad walls and have looked throught some past threads and got some good info but still need some feedback.

Just finished talking to a tech rep at Kilz. They sugested using the original Kilz and then using house latex paint. Or using the Premium Kilz and then the Rust Cap (I like the silver gray). Any one use the Rust cap and any sugestions?

They did back up Andy and say to scruff up the viny.

Thanks All
David

absent air · 11-02-2004, 02:13 PM

Hello, I have 26 years in the painting trade with much involved in painting old vinyl wall coverings. I have had great success with a product called Aqualock. Go to thier website insl-x.com This is a waterborn product that I have used for the last 4 years for it's adhesion as well as sealing properties. I am sure there are many products out there that will work, but I strongly recommend this one. I know it will stick much better than Kilz, wich I still use for other applications. Your main concern is it sticking to the vinyl.

Of course cleaning the surface is the most important step in the process.

Best of luck, Jesse

dmadam · 11-02-2004, 05:55 PM

One think I forgot tomention is the Masterchem tech was concerned about the rust cap hammered is that is dries solid and is non flexible and wondered that it might crack in a RV.

I saw in old threads that some have used it and wondered if that had been a problem

solitairenc · 07-09-2005, 04:48 PM

Where did you buy the Aqualock at? I went to their website and found no info on buying.

mello mike · 07-26-2005, 04:30 PM

great though I needed two coats.

jaiman · 07-26-2005, 05:25 PM

I just finished painting the entire interior on my MH. As a plastics finishing technical sales rep I did a great deal of testing with various coatings. For safety I wanted to use a 100% water reducible system. I would caution anyone from using alkyd (oil) based primers as they tend to dry out over time. The system I finally used was from Sherwin Williams. The products are not available from the house paint stores but from the Chemical Coatings division and must be sprayed. I tried many types of cleaners but found the only way to remove the stickiness was to use a strong solvent. Laquer thinner. Stubborn areas were hit with some acetone. Alcohol might also work. Use many rags so not to contaminate clean areas. I then used a scotch brite pad to knock the sheen off the woodgrain vinyl clad aluminum. This vinyl clad presented the greatest adhesion challenge. I then applied by spray a coat of bonding primer for plastics.(only to the wood grain vinyl clad aluminum) Areas that need filling were coated with a coat of water reducible sprayfil and sanded. I allowed that to dry for an hour then applied a coat of Polane 700T. This is a texturable single component water based urethane designed for the plastics and electronics industry. It also, has to be sprayed. I like the look of the light texture so I then textured over the top. I will have pictures up shortly for those who are interested to review. I took my time testing and did many sample areas using various potential systems and found the best results were with the aforementioned system. I had painted the headliner a couple of years ago and have no signs of failure. This finish is hard and stain resistant. I can post technical data pages on the products to those who are interested. Alot of work but does it ever look good. No more bedroom dungeon from that hidious fake brown vinyl.

jsmith351 · 07-31-2005, 12:05 AM

Sounds like a great process. What are the color options?

jaiman · 07-31-2005, 09:23 AM

Unlimited custom colors.

Globie64 · 08-01-2005, 07:40 PM

I was looking for someting to replicate the zolatone interior in my '64, textured but a little cleaner and updated. Did you spray over Zolatone as well as the vinyl? What kind of sprayer did you use?

Sounds great..

Peter

jaiman · 08-02-2005, 07:21 AM

I sprayed over everything. There appeared to be 3 different substrates. The head liner appeared to have been coated with something. Possibly Zolatone. I noticed that if I rubbed hard enough with the Laquer thinner during cleanup the color there would come off. IN any event it took my new paint very well with no signs of incompatibility or adhesion issues. I used a 2 quart pressure pot with a conventional spray gun.

Good luck.

jsmith351 · 08-16-2005, 11:35 PM

Ever painted over the end cap in the bathroom? I have a couple of 4" cracks in mine, I was thinking about fiberglass patches over the cracks then heavy coats of paint. If it turned out looking like Doo Doo, then I would rip out the end cap and use the metal flashing technique.....

Chaplain Kent · 08-24-2005, 06:28 AM

Years ago I worked in a paint store and we sold a product called "Goof Off" which removed latex paint. I got to thinking if that paint sticks so good to virtualy anything it needs its own remover it must be pretty good. So I started using a good quality latex paint on virtualy everything including my Airstreams. True to its nature it sticks and sticks and sticks even where I drip and then have to get the "Goof Off." Preparation of course is needed and TSP plus elbow grease works well. Lightly scuff up the surface, patch the holes with plain old wood filler and sand smooth, then use a brush and medium nap roller, the results are stunning. Your color choice is limited to the store where you shop, I like my local True Value hardware store.

jsmith351 · 08-24-2005, 10:24 AM

Wood filler on plastic? Hey I'll try anything once, but maybe Bondo would be a better chioce? Thanks for the suggestion, I'll try this first.

tin sista · 08-24-2005, 12:14 PM

Thanks all for posting this information--great food for thought...I'm adding some things to our to do list...