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Old 04-17-2012, 11:37 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by rettoc625 View Post
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Do you know where to purchase the large snaps to attach them to the wall? I hope I can find them in a good home dec department. They are much larger than dressmaker snaps.

Mary in CT
The snaps are available at many hardware stores along with the tool needed to set them. They are also very commonly available at marine stores, as it is the type which are used for boat covers.

When I made the curtains for my 20' Argosy (yes, a man who sews, but mostly enjoys repairing sewing machines) I used a single fold front pleat, and a single fold rear pleat, and used pleating tape which I was able to get at my local chain fabric shop. My pleats are 6" on center for the front, which, with the rear pleat, makes them 3" pleat to pleat.

On the front windows, I never gave it a thought about the difference in length, top and bottom tracks. I can't imagine making variable pleats and ever having them hang right. When installed, I guess my pleats at the top of the curtains just are closer together than at the bottom in closed position. The elastic and tabs compensate for a lot of minor things I believe. They look great as they are at any rate.

The problem I had was finding good self lined curtain material at a reasonable price. My solution was to search the chain stores for pre made curtains which often are available in "room darkening" (self lined, rubber backed) material. I then cut the material I needed out of the original drapes. My final choice came from Wal Mart, and the pre made, self lined drapes I chose for the material and pattern I liked came to less than $100. So, to be clear, I used pre made drapes for the material only. I did not use any of the original hanging systems or edges.

Self lined fabric, at least in my area, is virtually unavailable at any cost, and I thought this solution worked out very well. So well that I have another set to make for my 22' Argosy which I am restoring now.

On the pleats, I do like someone's suggestion to start in the center and work to the ends. I now can see that would be a good way to do things vs. starting at one end and working to the other. I had my worst problems not with the pleats, but with making the ends come out right, straight and not lumpy, with all of the materials that had to be turned over to hide the edges.

With my sewing machine repair hobby, I now have a serger, which I am thinking of using on some edges to make things simpler and less bulky. Do the sewers out there have any thoughts on that. I have repaired sergers, and know how they work, but other than testing for good operation, have never used one on any sewing project. They scare me a little, as they not only finish the edge, but cut, and once things are cut there is no going back to do it over again.
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Old 04-17-2012, 12:17 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idroba

The snaps are available at many hardware stores along with the tool needed to set them. They are also very commonly available at marine stores, as it is the type which are used for boat covers.

When I made the curtains for my 20' Argosy (yes, a man who sews, but mostly enjoys repairing sewing machines) I used a single fold front pleat, and a single fold rear pleat, and used pleating tape which I was able to get at my local chain fabric shop. My pleats are 6" on center for the front, which, with the rear pleat, makes them 3" pleat to pleat.

On the front windows, I never gave it a thought about the difference in length, top and bottom tracks. I can't imagine making variable pleats and ever having them hang right. When installed, I guess my pleats at the top of the curtains just are closer together than at the bottom in closed position. The elastic and tabs compensate for a lot of minor things I believe. They look great as they are at any rate.

The problem I had was finding good self lined curtain material at a reasonable price. My solution was to search the chain stores for pre made curtains which often are available in "room darkening" (self lined, rubber backed) material. I then cut the material I needed out of the original drapes. My final choice came from Wal Mart, and the pre made, self lined drapes I chose for the material and pattern I liked came to less than $100. So, to be clear, I used pre made drapes for the material only. I did not use any of the original hanging systems or edges.

Self lined fabric, at least in my area, is virtually unavailable at any cost, and I thought this solution worked out very well. So well that I have another set to make for my 22' Argosy which I am restoring now.

On the pleats, I do like someone's suggestion to start in the center and work to the ends. I now can see that would be a good way to do things vs. starting at one end and working to the other. I had my worst problems not with the pleats, but with making the ends come out right, straight and not lumpy, with all of the materials that had to be turned over to hide the edges.

With my sewing machine repair hobby, I now have a serger, which I am thinking of using on some edges to make things simpler and less bulky. Do the sewers out there have any thoughts on that. I have repaired sergers, and know how they work, but other than testing for good operation, have never used one on any sewing project. They scare me a little, as they not only finish the edge, but cut, and once things are cut there is no going back to do it over again.
My curtains don't have pleats. The later model international AS have panels that are self pleating when open and flat across the window when closed for privacy. The construction process is relatively straight forward. Fabric stores like Joann Fabrics with good home decorating departments sell blackout drapery lining fabric for about 6 bucks a yard (I used a 20 percent off coupon for bigger savings). Joann sells it online too. You can also buy self pleating header tape for about $1-2 a yard. I like your suggestion of buying heavy duty snaps at a hard ware store or marine shop. Here along the coast of Connecticut we do have a few

Using a serger is a great idea! I wish I had thought to use mine.

This forum is great! We all have different problems with the same project but together we share some fabulous solutions!
Thanks!
Mary in CT
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Old 04-18-2012, 12:42 PM   #31
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My plan for the front windows was to make the width match the longer bottom track. The pleats will always be closer to each other around the top edge of the inside corner but I don't think that will look bad. I could always make a template out of newspaper first and see how it lays up. Mrs. Mod, I think you will get to that point before me so you will have to keep me filled in.

Now I wasn't planning on using any blackout backing, since all living room windows are fitted with pull-down shades. The front window area though, the pull-down shade is only as wide as the large center operable window. No shades for the smaller curved front windows that flank it. I had thought about sewing blackout backing into my front drapes, only where it will land in front of those little windows, plus some overlap.

That will make for different thicknesses in the drapery panel and I'm not sure if that would cause wrinkles or other problems later. If anyone has any advice there it is welcome.

Christopher
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Old 04-18-2012, 05:31 PM   #32
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Front center window and side windows

Our 1989 Excella is fitted with pull down shades in all of the windows, including the "in the door" window. WalMarts that carry the pull down shades will cut them to fit (just like in the old days). So look and see if your old shade hardware may still be there to use. We bought light blocking pull down shades which help. When I remake our curtains I will also use the light blocking material between the lining and the front panel.
Sounds like everyone is very ambitious!!
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Old 04-21-2012, 05:23 PM   #33
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I finally started making my drapes today. Thanks to everyone who gave some helpful advice. I've taken a few photos and once the project is well under way I'll post some blog entries giving some real in depth details.

Attached is a photo of the first panel I made, which took a few hours, though that included some obsessive measuring and cutting for another panel as well.

The fabric used is an ivory colored suede, which will look really nice with the gaucho that I reupolstered in suede. Normal cost is $26 per yard but I got it 50% off. A real bargain since I calculated needing 12 yards of the stuff.

Also attached is a photo of my cozy sweat shop I have set up. It only made sense to work out in the trailer where I could spontaneously measure for a proper fit and check any other details.

Christopher
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Old 04-21-2012, 07:40 PM   #34
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Wow! I'm very impressed! Great job! Now you know what you're doing, it will go faster! Can't wait to see the finished pics!
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:02 PM   #35
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It should turn out well. Due to other obligations it might take a little time. Thanks Mrs. Mod.

Christopher
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Old 04-22-2012, 03:55 PM   #36
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Nice job Christopher. If I knew how to post pictures to the forum I would add pics of my work!

Mary in CT
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Old 04-27-2012, 07:09 PM   #37
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Love those suede drapes !!
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Old 04-28-2012, 04:26 PM   #38
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Here are a few more progress photos. Things are starting to look real now. I'll post a play-by-play of this to my blog later, but for now I'd rather work on sewing.
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:12 AM   #39
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I've started some blog entries covering the details of this project. Check it out if you like. More will be posted later.

Christopher
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Old 04-29-2012, 09:33 AM   #40
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Beautiful! Aren't you glad you didn't eliminate the pleats now? They look professionally made. Kudos to you, you should be very proud of your work!
I haven't finished mine yet, STILL waiting for my pleat tape to arrive. I'm gonna call the company I ordered it from tomorrow. It's been over 6 weeks.
No worry though, I have a bazillion projects in the meantime.
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Old 05-03-2012, 11:59 AM   #41
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I'm getting close to finishing up, Mrs. Mod. You have any progress photos to post?

Just curious why you ordered your pleater tape? I got the regular stuff off the shelf at Joann Fabrics.

Christopher
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