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Old 04-16-2012, 01:09 PM   #15
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Mrs. Mod, yes I do have a couch in the front, right across the front of the trailer, with its back to the window. So you say the curtains for the front which wrap around are in four sections? I would have guessed two longer panels.

Do I understand correctly that the two end panels are smaller, just enough to cover the speakers, while the two center ones would cover the front window?

I would like to see photos of your work, and also know a bit about the shape of the front panels. With the lower track being longer than the upper, I wasn't sure if the drape panels were cut out as rectangular or with an angle at one end, or maybe cut in a slight curve at one end.

idroba, I can see how on the front window the snap would work folded under on the corners, while on side walls tabs off the end would work better.

As for the classic pleats at the top, I was hoping to come up with a simpler design. I am by no means a seamstress, but I have a lot of determination.

Christopher
Christopher,
I thought it would make things simpler to eliminate the pleats also, but seriously, it's easy. If you can manage to sew a straight line, you can do it! I think you should leave the pleats. In my opinion, they give the curtains a nice, crisp look. Do not be intimidated by the pleats. I was at first but then I watched a YouTube video about making pleats and I couldn't believe it was that easy.
I know you have a hard task ahead of you since you have nothing to look at as a model. I studied the construction of my old curtains for a good amount of time before I started cutting up fabric.
The top to bottom dimensions have to be perfect or the curtains will be saggy or not long enough.
I searched a couple of sources for elastic clips. I found that Inland RV had the best price. There's not much of a price difference, but you get a few more clips for the same price as the other guys.
One more question for Christopher, do you have a center bath model? I have a center bath, I think there is plus or minus one curtain panel on a rear bath model. In any case, I would think the number of panels is something that wouldn't matter as long as you're satisfied with the coverage.
I'm pretty sure all the panels are a straight rectangle. I'll know when I take that set of curtains down (they're next). I'd go look, but we don't keep our AS parked at home.
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:20 PM   #16
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Ah, so you will be using pleater tape. From what I've researched that looks like an easy way to go since it sews on flat. However, once it is on your drapes, as I understand it, you then insert those forked hanger hooks that shape the pleat.

An idea that I had was to use pleater tape, insert the forked hangers but then cut the hanger hook portion of them off. Maybe secure them in place with a hand stitch or two if needed.

I'd have my plastic glides sewed on near each pleat, top and bottom. Are your plans similar?

Christopher
Yes, I'm using pleat tape. It keeps the edges straight and crisp. The nice thing about pleat tape (which is why I'm sure it was invented) is you can fold it like paper when making your pleats. Then, just sew a straight line through the folded section. Mine do have plastic guide on top and bottom.
I machined sewd my elastics clip on after my curtain were completely constructed. That way, if I ever have to replace a clip, I only have to undo a small bit of stitching to remove the old clip. They are space evenly between each pleat except on the end where the snap goes. Snap holds it in place.
Ok, here's the tricky part. There are two kinds of clips. The t-clip and the g-clip. Both named after the way they are shaped. T-clips are used on the top in some places.....and the bottom in some places.....and G-clips are used on the tops in some places and the bottom in some places with no apparent rhyhym or reason. Did you notice this when you ordered your new clips?
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Old 04-16-2012, 01:56 PM   #17
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Thanks for the descriptions, they helped quite a lot. The pleat tape I had been thinking of has pockets for the fork-style hangers, but yours sounds better suited for this job. If you could post a photo or two of the backside of a drape's top or bottom edge that would probably be all I'd need for now.

To answer your questions, my trailer is a center bath. However, right now I only plan to make drapes for the living room. I have not ordered any glides yet, though I know about the T and G types and where to get them cheap.

Do you have any advice on curtain width? For example, my curb side window has a track 38" long. Two perfectly flat curtains would be 19" each, though I planned on doubling the width of each to account for the pleats.

As for the height, I know that will be a critical measurement. I was thinking the elastic attachment loops might allow for a bit of slop.

Christopher
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Old 04-16-2012, 02:02 PM   #18
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blickcd,
I have replaced my original drapes with regular curtains and regular rods and no longer have the originals. However, I also have a 79 sovereign and will be happy to help if I can. Ours has the goucho in the front, bath in the middle, and full bed in the back.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:07 PM   #19
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CampUnger, we have the same floor plan, including that rare full sized bed. All of my original drapes were removed by a previous owner, and while I've been putting this off for years I am finally going to install some new ones.

For the living room I want to restore the original look. However, when I do the bedroom I'm not sure if I'll want to bother with that full wraparound style of pleated drapes. Sort of depends on how the living room job goes. In short, I'd like to see some bedroom photos, which I know are tricky to get in that small space. Mainly interested in details of the upper and lower rods, how they attach to the walls and drapes.

Mrs. Mod, can you post a link for the source of the pleating tape you are using? I checked with a local Joann Fabrics and they don't carry what you describe.

Christopher
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:27 PM   #20
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Wink

Here are some pictures of my old curtain. This curtain is from the window that is right next to the door. It uses 4 T-clips on top and 4 G-clips on the bottom of each panel (total of 8 of each)

Pic#1 This is the type of pleat tape that I used. It feels like an extra thick dryer sheet. It is 50% viscose and 50% Polyester. It measures 4 inches wide which is the same on my original curtains. I bought some of this at Joann Fabrics for about $1.50 a yard. You will need a lot since you have to use it on the top and bottom of each panel. I bought a roll of 50 yards for about $26 at a wholesale website. Shipping time is long but worth it to save the money.
Shade,Drapery Tapes,Cord | Non-Woven Drapery Header - JKM
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Pic#2 My finger outline the space where the pleat tape is concealed within the panel. The old curtains are lined. The curtains I am making are not. You have to leave extra height on top and bottom to make a hem over and cover the tape if you are not lining them.
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Pic#3 This is the front of the curtain. Making the pleats in both directions is as easy as folding like a paper fan.
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Pic#4 This picture show the inside of the curtain. You can see they are lined.
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More pics coming.
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Old 04-16-2012, 05:38 PM   #21
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Pic#5 See how pleats are folded in both directions. Like folding a paper fan. On this particular panel, there are two pleats in between each elastic clip.
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Pic#6 Female end of snap on a short tab. This is at the top of the curtain. The snap at the bottom is not on a tab, just on the curtain itself.
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Pic#7 Meausured FINISHED height of curtains. I haven't checked yet to see if every panel is the same. I am duplicating one panel at a time so my replacements will be accurate. 34 1/2 inches tall. Christopher, I think my finished height was within a 1/4 inch so as you were saying, the elastics can make up for that.
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Pic#8 Measured width of the original curtain with pleats. Consider extra length needed for pleats. Each pleats uses about an inch of fabric. Then I left 2 inches on each side for hem. I folded one inch over and then again for a 1 inch wide side hem. These curtains have velcro on the side hem to keep them shut. Velcro tape is less that an inch wide, so this hem will accomodate that.
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Our TT doesn't live at our house when we are not using it. Mr. Mod keeps it at work. I'll go tomorrow and take some pics of my finished panels. I very pleased with the way they turned out.
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Old 04-16-2012, 06:49 PM   #22
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Good stuff. Exactly what I was looking for. Looks like your pleats are spaced about 2" on center. So you are just making a fold, then sewing about a 4" straight line down from the top, roughly 1/2" from the folded edge? Looks great for being so simple.

I am surprised that those T-glides let the drape hang down. I would have thought the T would be flush with the top edge, but I suppose the valance will hide the gap.

What is the placement of the G-glide at the bottom? My thought was that the bottom of that glide is to be flush with the bottom of the drape but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for all the photos,
Christopher
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Old 04-16-2012, 08:50 PM   #23
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Good stuff. Exactly what I was looking for. Looks like your pleats are spaced about 2" on center. So you are just making a fold, then sewing about a 4" straight line down from the top, roughly 1/2" from the folded edge? Looks great for being so simple.

I am surprised that those T-glides let the drape hang down. I would have thought the T would be flush with the top edge, but I suppose the valance will hide the gap.

What is the placement of the G-glide at the bottom? My thought was that the bottom of that glide is to be flush with the bottom of the drape but maybe I'm wrong.

Thanks for all the photos,
Christopher
Yes, they are spaced 2 inches. Start in the center so you have a perfectly centered pleat and work your way to the sides. Then do the bottom. Yes, sew a straight line about 1/2 inch from the fold. You are correct.
The valance does hide the gap. There is elastic exposed on the originals too. If the clips were flush, I think it would make it to rigid (for lack of a better term). I imagine it might not slide easily.
I left about 3/4 of and inch of elastic exposed between the clip and edge of curtain. I'll get of picture of that on my new panels tomorrow.
Also, look at some of my images on my profile. There are a few interior pics of my TT. You can seen where curtains are in the bedroom and in living room. The bedroom is completely wrapped in curtains. Almost no wall is exposed. I was considering making less panels for the bedroom just to cover the window and leaving walls exposed. I'll decide that when I get to the bedroom.
I looked at some of your pics from your blog. Are you missing some or all of your tracks?
There is also ela
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:21 AM   #24
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I checked out your photos and saw how the drapes have a gap at top and bottom, that is with the glides exposed at both. I might try to make mine flush at the bottom, making a single test panel out of scrap first to see how it works.

You are correct that my lower tracks are missing. The only original lower track left is under the front window. All original upper tracks are still in place. Since I live in SW Ohio I drove to Jackson Center one day and bought full length 11' sections of track, since its impossible to have anyone ship that uncut. Two full lengths will be needed for the bedroom, with a splice centered below the rear window, which I assume is how it is done.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:21 AM   #25
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Mrs. Mod I have a question for you since you appear to be working on the same project I am starting. Curtains. I have assumed my panels are relatively perfect rectangles as most curtain panels are. But when I measure I see that they are really trapazoids with the top/bottom off by 2 inches and the left/right off by an inch. Do you know if this is an intentional design detail to accommodate the curvature of the front window or just stretched fabric due to age? I also notice the panels are not cut with the grain of the fabric.

What is your experience?
Thanks.
Mary in CT
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:49 AM   #26
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Mrs. Mod I have a question for you since you appear to be working on the same project I am starting. Curtains. I have assumed my panels are relatively perfect rectangles as most curtain panels are. But when I measure I see that they are really trapazoids with the top/bottom off by 2 inches and the left/right off by an inch. Do you know if this is an intentional design detail to accommodate the curvature of the front window or just stretched fabric due to age? I also notice the panels are not cut with the grain of the fabric.

What is your experience?
Thanks.
Mary in CT
Hi Mary,
I haven't gotten to the front window yet. I'm waiting for my order of pleat tape to arrive in the mail. My plan is to duplicate each panel one at a time for accuracy.
Christopher had asked me that question, if the panels are all straight rectangles. I wasn't sure since I haven't taken those down yet. I guess you just answered our question! I suppose it makes sense that an extra 2 inches would accomodate the curve.
Mary, are your curtain original? Something handmade by someone in the past? Mine are factory replacements from the late 80's (I found the reciept from the PO).
I'm hoping my pleat tape will arrive any day, then I can resume curtain making. The front window curtain will be next.
Mary, stay tuned, and please share your findings also!
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Old 04-17-2012, 09:58 AM   #27
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I checked out your photos and saw how the drapes have a gap at top and bottom, that is with the glides exposed at both. I might try to make mine flush at the bottom, making a single test panel out of scrap first to see how it works.

You are correct that my lower tracks are missing. The only original lower track left is under the front window. All original upper tracks are still in place. Since I live in SW Ohio I drove to Jackson Center one day and bought full length 11' sections of track, since its impossible to have anyone ship that uncut. Two full lengths will be needed for the bedroom, with a splice centered below the rear window, which I assume is how it is done.
Good morning, Christopher!
I made a test panel too. Good idea.
I have seen some photos of curtains that are not attached at the bottom. I don't care for the look. The hang down and sort of away from the wall. I'll get some photos of my tracks as my curtains come down. Good thing you have the lower track at the front window. That one has a curve. So does the one at the rear window. The rest are straight. If my memory serves me correctly, there is a splice in the center.
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Old 04-17-2012, 10:47 AM   #28
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Hi Mrs Mod! I think the lesson I just learned is NEVER expect 90 degree angle in a curved trailer! Not even the curtains! My curtains are original, about 10 years old they are in good shape but i am in a redecorating mood! I double checked the length of the tracks on the window and sure enough the top track is about 9 inches shorter than the bottom track so the curtain dimensions appear to be accurate. They always fit tight. My plan was to add a bit to the overall width so they would be a little less snug. I am hoping I won't have to do much custom fitting once the panels are sewn together. But if so I will. I am only making two panels, not four short ones. I cut the panels to the longest length and will fit as I go. Almost like tailoring!

Do you know where to purchase the large snaps to attach them to the wall? I hope I can find them in a good home dec department. They are much larger than dressmaker snaps.

Mary in CT
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