Just finished painting, now have spots all over after drying??

[dgreen78]

Just got done painting the first half of our 59' and now we are seeing spots everywere? We sanded down the factory zolatone panels, some spots down to bare aluminum. We then coated with Devflex DTM (2 coats), then 3 coats of paint. Anyone have any ideas on what is causing this?

[kevin242]

A google search says it shouldn't be applied over a lacquer and I suspect the original paint you sanded may have been an oil based laquer (It looks like an oil residue leeching through).

Did you paint the topcoats with an oil base, latex or acrylic?

[stowaways]

Kevin has the right idea. You need to use an oil based primer over what you've painted or a stain blocker. Then paint latex over that ... something from Aluminum is leeching through. Could be from the old paint as well -- hard to tell.

[dgreen78]

Originally Posted by kevin242

A google search says it shouldn't be applied over a lacquer and I suspect the original paint you sanded may have been an oil based laquer (It looks like an oil residue leeching through).

Did you paint the topcoats with an oil base, latex or acrylic?

We painted top coat with latex over the DTM. I was told by a paint shop DTM would work well over the zolatone/aluminum. Should we have gone with oil based? What to do now

[tlsmit1]

Yikes. What a nightmare.

I am currently cleaning the zolatone with Agent Orange cleaner and scrubbing hard. After reading about the requirements of re-painting with authentic zolatone I was horrified. (Not really planning to remove all the cabinets this year.)

Cleaning helps, but I don't think it would look as good as a new coat of paint. REALLY looking forward to hearing how you solve this, as it is very much parallel to our situation.

T

[reinergirl]

Darn you were given some bad advice Do a google search on "surfactant leaching". Aluminum is prone to this problem especially if you painted on a war/humid day and the night was cool. Try calling the paint company and asking for help.

Here's a short version of what I think might have happened:

Surfactant leaching
Cause Many different water-soluble materials are used in the manufacture of latex emulsion paints. When these paints are applied during hot and humid periods and expected to dry during cool evenings, the painted surface will cool, allowing dew to form. This accumulated moisture on a paint surface whose curing is temporarily delayed will extract and concentrate different water-soluble materials from within the paint at the paint surface. As the water evaporates, a concentrated residue is left behind, causing staining, unsightly runs and gloss patterns.
Aluminum siding will react to temperature changes faster than solid wood siding because of the smaller amount of material involved. Consequently, aluminum siding will develop surfactant leaching quicker and more easily; however, all siding is prone to this problem under identical conditions.

Solution Apply paint to all surfaces during climatic conditions that allow proper curing of the paint film. When “surfactant leaching” happens, flush with clean water immediately before the stains have sufficient time to set up or harden. Light scrubbing with a soft brush is acceptable. If stains cannot be removed in this manner, then repainting will be necessary during more favorable weather conditions.

http://www.intoppa.com/problems/Surf...Surfactant.htm

[reinergirl]

I forgot to add that if this is indeed the problem USUALLY it will self correct and its a matter of waiting..... I hope indeed that thats the answer.

[dgreen78]

Originally Posted by reinergirl

Darn you were given some bad advice Do a google search on "surfactant leaching". Aluminum is prone to this problem especially if you painted on a war/humid day and the night was cool. Try calling the paint company and asking for help.

Here's a short version of what I think might have happened:

Surfactant leaching
Cause Many different water-soluble materials are used in the manufacture of latex emulsion paints. When these paints are applied during hot and humid periods and expected to dry during cool evenings, the painted surface will cool, allowing dew to form. This accumulated moisture on a paint surface whose curing is temporarily delayed will extract and concentrate different water-soluble materials from within the paint at the paint surface. As the water evaporates, a concentrated residue is left behind, causing staining, unsightly runs and gloss patterns.
Aluminum siding will react to temperature changes faster than solid wood siding because of the smaller amount of material involved. Consequently, aluminum siding will develop surfactant leaching quicker and more easily; however, all siding is prone to this problem under identical conditions.

Solution Apply paint to all surfaces during climatic conditions that allow proper curing of the paint film. When “surfactant leaching” happens, flush with clean water immediately before the stains have sufficient time to set up or harden. Light scrubbing with a soft brush is acceptable. If stains cannot be removed in this manner, then repainting will be necessary during more favorable weather conditions.

New Page 1

Good find! I think this might (fingers crossed) be the answer. We did paint late in the evening and right after a heavy rain so you might be spot on. I think we will throw in a space heater and apply another coat to see if it clears up.

[ddstech]

You seem to be moving at the speed of light. Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed. Did you prewire for some additional lights? Curious as to the wires coming out of the ceiling. Also, the light fixture behind the skylight, is that original or new?

I will be painting my 58 flying cloud in the near future and will be curious to see your "detailed" results.

Keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming!

[kevin242]

Originally Posted by dgreen78

I think we will throw in a space heater and apply another coat to see if it clears up.

Nothing to lose by trying another coat. I would recommend trying several thin coats, allowing them to dry between applications. A thick coat may allow the staining to leach through again.

If it doesn't fix the problem, stripping all of the latex and putting an oil based primer would be advised. I don't think sandwiching a layer of latex between coats of oil-based would be a good way to go.

[dgreen78]

Originally Posted by ddstech

You seem to be moving at the speed of light. Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed. Did you prewire for some additional lights? Curious as to the wires coming out of the ceiling. Also, the light fixture behind the skylight, is that original or new?

I will be painting my 58 flying cloud in the near future and will be curious to see your "detailed" results.

Keep up the good work, and keep the pictures coming!

Thanks, yes I ran some wire for some recessed lights (same as in the new airstreams). The light fixture I picked up at Ikea for $5 My model did not come with a battery so I ran all new 12V wiring while the panels were out/loose. I plan on installing a battery box/inverter etc under the bed. I also ran wire to the fan area for a Fantastic Fan, water pump, fridge, stereo, and some outlets. Here are a few pics of the floor replacement...

[ddstech]

We are following very similar paths. I put 8 led recessed fixtures down the ceiling, replaced the floor and installed new 12v and insulation. I'm hung up on finishing the belly Pan and tanks.

[dgreen78]

Originally Posted by ddstech

We are following very similar paths. I put 8 led recessed fixtures down the ceiling, replaced the floor and installed new 12v and insulation. I'm hung up on finishing the belly Pan and tanks.

Very cool, do you have any pics of your project? Which LEDs did you go with? I just ordered up one from Ebay to test out. We are hoping to get the last piece of the floor done this weekend so we can lay the cork down and get the belly back in place. Also trying to figure out if I can use Olympic rivets on the pan/C-channel or if I have to shell out for a buck riveter. Did your model have factory tanks?

Update on the paint situation... I scrubbed the spots down with a some soap and water and they disappeared! VERY happy about that!

[ddstech]

My led lights are amazing, and amazingly expensive. I don't know what gets in my head sometimes. I ordered 8 lumitec orbit lights at 60.00 each. They are very small and have a brushed aluminum housing. Completely submersible, which is important to me.......
They are also recessed fixtures so they only stick out of the ceiling less than half an inch. And are about 1.5" in diameter. They really look slick and they are not overwhelmingly bright, which I like.

I'm going to get a few more for the bathroom and under cabinet lighting.

I'll post a picture tonight if time permits.

[ddstech]

Your going to have to buck the body to the c channel. There are many threads on this, it seems to be pretty clear on this issue.

I am doing olympics everywhere inside, as opposed to pop rivots. It's expensive and more work but I like the look.

[toastie]

Go with IronClad metal&wood enamel by Benjamin Moore, none better............toastie

[mnmhays]

We have a similar issue happening with our paint/primer. We primed (with Zinnser Fast Prime Oil Base) the front half a couple of weeks ago. We had to step away from the project for a while and when we went back to prime some more, we noticed a lot of spots and streaks (that looked like mildew) on the newly primed surfaces only. I am hoping this is the surfactant issue pointed out here.