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Old 09-30-2016, 04:11 PM   #1
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1977 31' Excella 500
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Interior walls (not skins)

Wondering what material to use to replace the interior walls. Is like something with some sound deadening ability. I found a plywood that's sandwiched with cork, I'm just wondering what people are using. I haven't found it in forums so far, everything seems to refer to the skins.
Also- what would be the best way to mount it? Is there any kind of flexible "T channel" or some other hidden way of doing it?

Looking forward to your feedback.
Stephanie
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Old 09-30-2016, 05:21 PM   #2
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1/4" plywood. Vintage Trailer Supply sells an aluminum extrusion to mount it to the wall, very similar to the stuff they used at the factory, but a bit beefier. It's tricky to bend. See my post "more work less blogging" in the blog linked in my signature.
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Old 09-30-2016, 06:30 PM   #3
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Depending on existing conditions you could make a sandwich of 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with foam board insulation between. The plywood could be paint grade or mahogany or other speices. Solid wood strips can be incorporated to accomodate hardware or fasteners. There are various ways to to attach to ext. walls via c channel, angle or t mold. I could help you with some sketches if I had some more info. Jim
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:17 PM   #4
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Good timing for this question. I will be putting my walls up soon. The Greatleys - did you find 1/4 inch to be thick and strong enough? What about the shower wall? I will also be mounting a small tv on another wall. Just want to be these walls are strong enough. I was thinking of going 1/2 inch, but if 1/4 will be strong enough, I'd rather do that.

I tried to find the section on your blog - but could not. Great blog by the way. Aren't you Hijoesilver on this forum as well?
Greg
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:31 PM   #5
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I reused the old aluminum chanel that the 1/4" original walls went into on the skin side. Already curved to original. Changed to 1/2" plywood though. After cutting the new walls ton fit the curve I needed to make the 1/2" thick plywood fit into the 1/4" slot. To do this I figured out where the trim started and ended and then routed in from the edge to get the thickness down to fit, using a adjustable depth rabbeting router bit and adjusting the router depth. Routed out the side that would be least visible.
Photo of example edge attached.
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:44 PM   #6
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We also reused the original aluminum channels but went back with 1/4 ply. It all seems pretty flimsy until you start to tie everything together them the strength starts to appear. If I were to attach a TV I'd either use 1/2" or add a backer board of some sort
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Old 09-30-2016, 08:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffcharb View Post
we also reused the original aluminum channels but went back with 1/4 ply. It all seems pretty flimsy until you start to tie everything together them the strength starts to appear. If i were to attach a tv i'd either use 1/2" or add a backer board of some sort

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Old 09-30-2016, 08:57 PM   #8
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Awesome - thank you so much. Great idea to route out the edge to fit the original aluminum channel. Glad I saved those.
Greg
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:56 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg1410 View Post
Good timing for this question. I will be putting my walls up soon. The Greatleys - did you find 1/4 inch to be thick and strong enough? What about the shower wall? I will also be mounting a small tv on another wall. Just want to be these walls are strong enough. I was thinking of going 1/2 inch, but if 1/4 will be strong enough, I'd rather do that.
Depends on what you're using it for. I glued 1/4" ply to 1/2" foam board for the walls around my fridge and used shelves above and below to reinforce. If you're mounting a TV, you'll want some sort of reinforcement.

I used steel studs for the shower wall because I needed enough thickness to hide the plumbing vent, and I wanted to use cedar planks while keeping the assembly as lightweight as possible. The shower isn't done yet though, so I can't tell you how it worked out.

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Originally Posted by Greg1410 View Post
I tried to find the section on your blog - but could not. Great blog by the way. Aren't you Hijoesilver on this forum as well?
Greg
Thanks. It's in the journal a few months back, you just need to click through a few pages. I'd link you but I'm on my phone. And nope, I'm not Hijoesilver.
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:12 AM   #10
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Are you talking about interior "room dividing" walls or
Replacing skins?
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:13 AM   #11
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Awesome that's helpful thanks! I could do the routing thing with the sandwich board
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Old 10-01-2016, 10:16 AM   #12
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Thanks! What substrate are you using for the cedar?
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Old 10-01-2016, 11:10 AM   #13
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Greg-

This is the post I was talking about: http://thegreatleys.com/journal/2016...bjmu97ilv5spzn

Stormborn-

The cedar is screwed to framing built with this type of stud:

http://www.lowes.com/pd/Dietrich-Met...l-Stud/3369674

I don't think I have any good pictures of it in the blog yet. Can't give any recommendation on trying this because I'm not done, so I don't know how well the final assembly is going to work.

I made a bunch of relief cuts in a stud to allow it to bend to the curve, then screwed it to the wall/ceiling with stainless screws. I screwed a piece of it to the subfloor and riveted a few vertical sections in place with some horizontal bracing between the vertical studs. It does squeak a bit when you get in and out of the trailer because of the way it flexes against itself. I'm planning on shooting some sprayfoam in the voids inside the studs to help dampen the noise, and the other side of the wall will be getting 1/2" plywood screwed to it for the shower wall.

My plan is to tile the shower with thin resin mosaic tiles like Hoffman Architecture does. If you haven't seen their work, google them. The bathroom tiles they use look like glass mosaic, but they're actually resin tiles, which are much lighter weight and more flexible.

I did use glass tiles in one place -- the hearth for the wood stove. Resin isn't fireproof...
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Old 10-01-2016, 04:54 PM   #14
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I used 1/2 birch plywood and my kreg jig to put pocket holes along the floor and wall side. I then used simple construction screws 1.25 inch for the floor and those thin black self tapping screws for metal studs for the wall sections. Pulls the wall in nice and tight where the cut isn't perfect. If I still had the original wall extrusions I would kreg jig the floor side and then route the curved edge and connect to the extrusion which is riveted in. 1/4 inch by itself is not strong enough IMO to hold a fastener or much of any load by itself. YMMV


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