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Old 10-01-2016, 05:59 PM   #15
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1977 31' Excella 500
NEW HARTFORD , Connecticut
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Originally Posted by TheGreatleys View Post
1/4" plywood. Vintage Trailer Supply sells an aluminum extrusion to mount it to the wall, very similar to the stuff they used at the factory, but a bit beefier. It's tricky to bend. See my post "more work less blogging" in the blog linked in my signature.
Off topic but I was looking at your blog post and wondering what made you choose Pergo for the floor? I had pretty much nixed the idea early on because of its moisture intolerance... has their technology improved?

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Old 10-01-2016, 08:14 PM   #16
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1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore , Maryland
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Originally Posted by stormbornSG View Post
Off topic but I was looking at your blog post and wondering what made you choose Pergo for the floor? I had pretty much nixed the idea early on because of its moisture intolerance... has their technology improved?
It's not pergo, its 3/8" click-lock floating hardwood. It's definitely not the ideal material from an engineering standpoint, but it's a much nicer surface than anything else I found. Hardwood isn't very moisture tolerant either, but it shouldn't be getting so wet that it's a problem. It has plenty of room to expand and contract. I'm not the first to do floating floors either, so I expect it'll do fine.

I guess it's kind of like the wood stove. Not the most practical choice, but it's what we wanted in our home. So, we are making it work.

1974 Overlander In Progress
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Old 10-02-2016, 02:26 PM   #17
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1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach , Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 309
about the floating floor... I've typically sneered at them, finding the foot feel to be awful. So I did a glue-down install on my bamboo floor. Well, turns out that Airstreams flex a lot, and also the floor isn't as flat as a typical residential install. Now most of my floor is very solid and perfect, but there are some sections that make a popping noise as after you step on them as the glue releases. Ack!

I guess I'm trying to figure out what the LOA (Least Objectionable Alternative) is in this situation for those that shall follow in the footsteps of this thread!

Anyway, back to the interior walls, which I would call bulkheads, in my nautical parlance. Mine are 1/4" ply, held in place with small L-brackets in unobtrusive places, and lots of Big Stretch caulking. I'm using 1 1/2" aluminum channel, acquired conveniently at Home Depot, to brace up the free edge not held by the side of the trailer. I think that to get soundproofing, you have to either go so heavy with multiple layers, or so thick (taking up precious room), that it makes it a non-starter. When I'm camping, the A/C is running, so that makes a white noise that is the equivalent of sound proofing!

If someone held a gun to my head, demanding an actual answer, I would suggest something like two layers of 1/8" ply with sound board epoxied in-between. A huge bead of Big Stretch around the edges, and Swiss accuracy on the woodwork around the doorway. I'm assuming that you want the soundproofing for sleepers vs. awake-persons?
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Old 10-03-2016, 06:52 AM   #18
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1974 25' Tradewind
Lexington , Kentucky
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 15
interior wall material

I am using a 3/16 thick plywood (4x8) from our local Lowes.
It bends even for the front bottom corners "under" the front window. I'm attaching it with pop rivets.
It comes with a "redish" color but I roll it with Kilz, let dry and use the next day.
It's the most plyable I've found.
Hope this helps.

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