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09-30-2016, 04:11 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1977 31' Excella 500
NEW HARTFORD
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 48
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Interior walls (not skins)
Wondering what material to use to replace the interior walls. Is like something with some sound deadening ability. I found a plywood that's sandwiched with cork, I'm just wondering what people are using. I haven't found it in forums so far, everything seems to refer to the skins.
Also- what would be the best way to mount it? Is there any kind of flexible "T channel" or some other hidden way of doing it?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Stephanie
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09-30-2016, 05:21 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
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1/4" plywood. Vintage Trailer Supply sells an aluminum extrusion to mount it to the wall, very similar to the stuff they used at the factory, but a bit beefier. It's tricky to bend. See my post "more work less blogging" in the blog linked in my signature.
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09-30-2016, 06:30 PM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1965 20' Globetrotter
Fairfield
, Connecticut
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 97
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Depending on existing conditions you could make a sandwich of 1/8" or 1/4" plywood with foam board insulation between. The plywood could be paint grade or mahogany or other speices. Solid wood strips can be incorporated to accomodate hardware or fasteners. There are various ways to to attach to ext. walls via c channel, angle or t mold. I could help you with some sketches if I had some more info. Jim
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09-30-2016, 08:17 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
1973 23' Safari
1970 27' Overlander
Boerne
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 222
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Good timing for this question. I will be putting my walls up soon. The Greatleys - did you find 1/4 inch to be thick and strong enough? What about the shower wall? I will also be mounting a small tv on another wall. Just want to be these walls are strong enough. I was thinking of going 1/2 inch, but if 1/4 will be strong enough, I'd rather do that.
I tried to find the section on your blog - but could not. Great blog by the way. Aren't you Hijoesilver on this forum as well?
Greg
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09-30-2016, 08:31 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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I reused the old aluminum chanel that the 1/4" original walls went into on the skin side. Already curved to original. Changed to 1/2" plywood though. After cutting the new walls ton fit the curve I needed to make the 1/2" thick plywood fit into the 1/4" slot. To do this I figured out where the trim started and ended and then routed in from the edge to get the thickness down to fit, using a adjustable depth rabbeting router bit and adjusting the router depth. Routed out the side that would be least visible.
Photo of example edge attached.
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09-30-2016, 08:44 PM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
2021 16' Bambi
2021 22' Bambi
Currently Looking...
North Port
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 331
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We also reused the original aluminum channels but went back with 1/4 ply. It all seems pretty flimsy until you start to tie everything together them the strength starts to appear. If I were to attach a TV I'd either use 1/2" or add a backer board of some sort
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09-30-2016, 08:55 PM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
2021 16' Bambi
2021 22' Bambi
Currently Looking...
North Port
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 331
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cliffcharb
we also reused the original aluminum channels but went back with 1/4 ply. It all seems pretty flimsy until you start to tie everything together them the strength starts to appear. If i were to attach a tv i'd either use 1/2" or add a backer board of some sort
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09-30-2016, 08:57 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1973 23' Safari
1970 27' Overlander
Boerne
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 222
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Awesome - thank you so much. Great idea to route out the edge to fit the original aluminum channel. Glad I saved those.
Greg
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10-01-2016, 08:56 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg1410
Good timing for this question. I will be putting my walls up soon. The Greatleys - did you find 1/4 inch to be thick and strong enough? What about the shower wall? I will also be mounting a small tv on another wall. Just want to be these walls are strong enough. I was thinking of going 1/2 inch, but if 1/4 will be strong enough, I'd rather do that.
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Depends on what you're using it for. I glued 1/4" ply to 1/2" foam board for the walls around my fridge and used shelves above and below to reinforce. If you're mounting a TV, you'll want some sort of reinforcement.
I used steel studs for the shower wall because I needed enough thickness to hide the plumbing vent, and I wanted to use cedar planks while keeping the assembly as lightweight as possible. The shower isn't done yet though, so I can't tell you how it worked out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg1410
I tried to find the section on your blog - but could not. Great blog by the way. Aren't you Hijoesilver on this forum as well?
Greg
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Thanks. It's in the journal a few months back, you just need to click through a few pages. I'd link you but I'm on my phone. And nope, I'm not Hijoesilver.
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10-01-2016, 10:12 AM
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#10
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2 Rivet Member
1977 31' Excella 500
NEW HARTFORD
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 48
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Are you talking about interior "room dividing" walls or
Replacing skins?
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10-01-2016, 10:13 AM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1977 31' Excella 500
NEW HARTFORD
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 48
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Awesome that's helpful thanks! I could do the routing thing with the sandwich board
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10-01-2016, 10:16 AM
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#12
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2 Rivet Member
1977 31' Excella 500
NEW HARTFORD
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 48
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Thanks! What substrate are you using for the cedar?
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10-01-2016, 11:10 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
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Greg-
This is the post I was talking about : http://thegreatleys.com/journal/2016...bjmu97ilv5spzn
Stormborn-
The cedar is screwed to framing built with this type of stud:
http://www.lowes.com/pd/Dietrich-Met...l-Stud/3369674
I don't think I have any good pictures of it in the blog yet. Can't give any recommendation on trying this because I'm not done, so I don't know how well the final assembly is going to work.
I made a bunch of relief cuts in a stud to allow it to bend to the curve, then screwed it to the wall/ceiling with stainless screws. I screwed a piece of it to the subfloor and riveted a few vertical sections in place with some horizontal bracing between the vertical studs. It does squeak a bit when you get in and out of the trailer because of the way it flexes against itself. I'm planning on shooting some sprayfoam in the voids inside the studs to help dampen the noise, and the other side of the wall will be getting 1/2" plywood screwed to it for the shower wall.
My plan is to tile the shower with thin resin mosaic tiles like Hoffman Architecture does. If you haven't seen their work, google them. The bathroom tiles they use look like glass mosaic, but they're actually resin tiles, which are much lighter weight and more flexible.
I did use glass tiles in one place -- the hearth for the wood stove. Resin isn't fireproof...
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10-01-2016, 04:54 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member
1976 25' Tradewind
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 353
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I used 1/2 birch plywood and my kreg jig to put pocket holes along the floor and wall side. I then used simple construction screws 1.25 inch for the floor and those thin black self tapping screws for metal studs for the wall sections. Pulls the wall in nice and tight where the cut isn't perfect. If I still had the original wall extrusions I would kreg jig the floor side and then route the curved edge and connect to the extrusion which is riveted in. 1/4 inch by itself is not strong enough IMO to hold a fastener or much of any load by itself. YMMV
Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums
76 'Airstream Tradewind
__________________
Matt
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10-01-2016, 05:59 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
1977 31' Excella 500
NEW HARTFORD
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheGreatleys
1/4" plywood. Vintage Trailer Supply sells an aluminum extrusion to mount it to the wall, very similar to the stuff they used at the factory, but a bit beefier. It's tricky to bend. See my post "more work less blogging" in the blog linked in my signature.
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Off topic but I was looking at your blog post and wondering what made you choose Pergo for the floor? I had pretty much nixed the idea early on because of its moisture intolerance... has their technology improved?
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10-01-2016, 08:14 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1974 27' Overlander
Baltimore
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormbornSG
Off topic but I was looking at your blog post and wondering what made you choose Pergo for the floor? I had pretty much nixed the idea early on because of its moisture intolerance... has their technology improved?
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It's not pergo, its 3/8" click-lock floating hardwood. It's definitely not the ideal material from an engineering standpoint, but it's a much nicer surface than anything else I found. Hardwood isn't very moisture tolerant either, but it shouldn't be getting so wet that it's a problem. It has plenty of room to expand and contract. I'm not the first to do floating floors either, so I expect it'll do fine.
I guess it's kind of like the wood stove. Not the most practical choice, but it's what we wanted in our home. So, we are making it work.
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10-02-2016, 02:26 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1972 29' Ambassador
Boynton Beach
, Florida
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 568
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about the floating floor... I've typically sneered at them, finding the foot feel to be awful. So I did a glue-down install on my bamboo floor. Well, turns out that Airstreams flex a lot, and also the floor isn't as flat as a typical residential install. Now most of my floor is very solid and perfect, but there are some sections that make a popping noise as after you step on them as the glue releases. Ack!
I guess I'm trying to figure out what the LOA (Least Objectionable Alternative) is in this situation for those that shall follow in the footsteps of this thread!
Anyway, back to the interior walls, which I would call bulkheads, in my nautical parlance. Mine are 1/4" ply, held in place with small L-brackets in unobtrusive places, and lots of Big Stretch caulking. I'm using 1 1/2" aluminum channel, acquired conveniently at Home Depot, to brace up the free edge not held by the side of the trailer. I think that to get soundproofing, you have to either go so heavy with multiple layers, or so thick (taking up precious room), that it makes it a non-starter. When I'm camping, the A/C is running, so that makes a white noise that is the equivalent of sound proofing!
If someone held a gun to my head, demanding an actual answer, I would suggest something like two layers of 1/8" ply with sound board epoxied in-between. A huge bead of Big Stretch around the edges, and Swiss accuracy on the woodwork around the doorway. I'm assuming that you want the soundproofing for sleepers vs. awake-persons?
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10-03-2016, 06:52 AM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
1974 25' Tradewind
Lexington
, Kentucky
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 76
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interior wall material
Steph,
I am using a 3/16 thick plywood (4x8) from our local Lowes.
It bends even for the front bottom corners "under" the front window. I'm attaching it with pop rivets.
It comes with a "redish" color but I roll it with Kilz, let dry and use the next day.
It's the most plyable I've found.
Hope this helps.
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