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Old 02-09-2004, 12:34 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sneakinup
I added some flashing from Lowes to the backsplash of my trailer. Looks just like the CCD aluminum. Easy to work. I cut out the outlet hole with a razor knife.

20" x 10' long for around $7.
looks really cool to me. I would like to do that around the stove area. Good suggestion.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:39 PM   #16
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Rivets

As I understand it, you will be putting new AL sheet over the top of the old AL sheets?
If this is truely what you have planned I would remove all of the old rivets. It would lay flatter if they were all removed.
I would also think about some sort of sealer between the two to cut down on rattels and vibration.

You can hold the old and the new sheet goods together by the use of "Cleko fasteners" They are used in the aircraft industry to hold sheet metal together until it can be riveted. A real time saver.
Search the web for "Cleko" and Bob's your Uncle.
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Old 02-09-2004, 01:49 PM   #17
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Cleco/Cleko

You get more results with 'Cleco' and 'Bob's yer uncle'
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Old 02-09-2004, 03:16 PM   #18
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Whoops

Yer right "Cleco" and "Gary can't spell"
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Old 03-08-2004, 09:43 AM   #19
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bought a roll of the flashing at HD, and found some precut rectangles for 30 cents a piece there also. I cut one to use as the trim piece around my wall digital clock, where it had vinyl woodgrain applique. Way cool update for 30 cents!

Then I cut some of the bigger stuff and riveted it on my entry door inside bottom, where the screen door has marked and rubbed it for years. Looks so much better now when the door is left open.
Nice little fix for this area.
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Old 03-14-2004, 01:48 PM   #20
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interior skin of alum.

One the yahoo site for cork tile and floating floors are lare rolls of cork used for acustical and thermal insulation. It would be easy to roll this stuff outtack it and then cover it with the interior aluminum. there was also an advertisement for cork wall and ceiling tiles- another way to cover yucky vinyl. That's what I was thinking of doing. silver suz
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Old 03-14-2004, 02:09 PM   #21
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is that a yahoo auction or?? I have been looking at cork flooring.
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Old 03-14-2004, 02:26 PM   #22
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rolls of cork

the brain is not working today. I looked in Google and there are several sellers of cork, one has large rolls used as accustical underlayment for floors. I naturally figured that would work for the walls and curving ceiling. try Natural Cork. But it's also in one of the architectural firms in google too under cork floor. Sorry I misled you. silversuz P.S. no idea on cost
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Old 03-14-2004, 03:59 PM   #23
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Thanks...the best prices i have found are from I-Floor.com , even their shipping cost was considerably lower than others. APC cork seems to be the most reasonable. As low as 2.69 a sq foot.
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:32 PM   #24
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I am assuming the vinyl can be painted? I HATE that flowery pattern in the bathroom.............
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Old 05-02-2004, 08:39 PM   #25
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Not only is the flowery pattern bad....

It's going to be a terrible shape to veneer....DOn't know how I'm going to handle it. I don't know why you wouldn't be able to paint it though...
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Old 11-02-2004, 09:50 PM   #26
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Talking I Too Want a New AL Interior

Hey folks. Is this thread still alive?
I want the new AL look inside of my 79 24' Excella Motorhome. I read all of your inputs and it seems like great advice. My conclusion is that I would cover over the old walls with the new aluminum probably using the glued on cork to cover old rivets and help with sound reduction. I went to a place in Warner Robins GA called Prince Sheet Metal -a big fabricator near Robins AFB. They priced me a 4 x 12' sheet of 32mil(?) AL for $50. Felt and looked like good stuff - but what do I know...
They were nice folks and said they could help cut it with a CAD/CAM machine for best quality cuts. (Sounds pricey!)

I have some specific questions about the project that ya'll might can answer:

First, what exactly is the name/grade/specs of the Al I would want to use? Does it really matter since it is cosmetic?

Second, what happens where the new AL meets the window frames? I would like for it to disappear under the frame but I reckon that is not going to happen due to the nightmare of R&R-ing the frames. So, is the plan to butt it up against the frame?

And lastly for now - It looks like I could cover the long overhead center piece without too much difficulty, however, what should I do about the little strips on each side that it tucks under? It is vinyl covered and ugly. It would look especially bad next to the new AL.

My MH is stripped out right now so now is the time to do this. I think I'm fired up beyond the point of no return.

Looking forward to your valued opinions .

Josephhh
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Old 11-03-2004, 08:06 PM   #27
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Some aluminum thoughts...

I think you are right that the type of aluminum is less important for the proposed application. Go with something that has the look you want. You probably could go with thinner aluminum sheet if you want as well. The outer skin is 0.032 thick and the belly pan is typically 0.024 thick - still pretty stiff especially if you are going to overlay something else. As long as you get something that is thick enough not to wrinkel too easily I think you would fine.

One place to check for metal is the following site. See if they have an outlet near you:

http://www.metalsupermarkets.com/

A pretty neat alternative technology that is new can be seen at the following site:

http://www.alsacorp.com/products/she...sheetingfx.htm

This stuff is a composite material with a layer of metal laminated with a layer of clear lexan on top of it. It comes with a peal-off adhesive backer. The claims are that it is very easy to install, looks just like metal (because it is), but is better protected. The catch is that it is more expensive. In small volumes it goes for about $10 per square foot. It does seem to be pretty cool stuff though.

Malcolm
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Old 11-04-2004, 07:35 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josephhh
First, what exactly is the name/grade/specs of the Al I would want to use? Does it really matter since it is cosmetic?
Cosmetic is the key word. Because of the way a decoiler and stacker work it is very easy to get long scratches in the sheets. Also look for repetitive marks, small pieces of dirt or metal can get on the flattening rollers and leave a string of dings down the panel. Also make sure the panel is perfectly flat, if there is a curl it will be at a right angle to the curve of the body and be very difficult to work with.
Quote:
Second, what happens where the new AL meets the window frames? I would like for it to disappear under the frame.
Pull the frame, there are only a few pop rivets holding it on. This will be by far the easiest part of reskinning. It is just like the trim in a house, if you are a 1/8" off on your measurements it will hide the mistake. FWIW all the corners on my windows were the same radius. I made a template that fit one corner perfectly, used it to do all the cutouts.
Quote:
And lastly for now - It looks like I could cover the long overhead center piece without too much difficulty, however, what should I do about the little strips on each side that it tucks under?
Pull the strips and clean them up, they are riveted like the window frames and like another piece of trim.

John
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