I'm restoring my 1970s end caps finally :-)

[thesignlady]

No problem, in post 2 of this thread I cover how I removed mine. I don't have any of the roll upwards style in mine so I am not certain about those

[kidjedi]

First impressions regarding spray paint on plastic panel/inserts and vinyl over metal skins (I'm not done testing)...

Between the two main brands that specifically advertise "bonding to plastic," the Krylon Fusion does seem to stick a bit better (it doesn't scratch off as easily as the Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch 2x Ultra Cover and holds up to a clear coat much better). Places where I put down Rustoleum 2X Ultra Cover Flat Gray Primer before a coat of another color (no matter the brand/type) does seem a little more scratch resistant, but it's probably just that the scratch is showing gray underneath instead of (very visible) white (the original surface). I think a better primer for bare plastic might be a flat Krylon Fusion. I am not impressed with Rustoleum Universal Bonding Primer. It is very thin and runs very easily. I haven't tested it's durability yet, because I added it to the test late and just put it down, thus I haven't had a chance to let it dry for a week before spraying another color over it.

The Rust-Oleum Universal Metallic is probably the least durable on the plastic inserts and end cap, but somehow the most durable on the vinyl skins. Go figure.

Dupli-Color Trim & Bumper (Dark Charcoal) was a late addition to the test (I bought it last night), and after just one day it seems about as durable as the Krylon and Rustoleum that's been curing for more than two weeks (in comparison, a new color of Rust-Oleum 2X I added at the same time last night came off like butter). The Trim & Bumper paint is advertised as having "Fade-X Technology" and also boasts "flexible finish" and "excellent adhesion," but the colors are extremely limited (like... three colors: black, white, and gray). However, if it's made for bumpers, I'm hoping it might be the most durable of the bunch? I'm also wondering about it's possibility as a primer.

It's been two weeks (plenty of time for everything from the first batch of sprays to cure), so I also started testing clear coats today. The bad news is that Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Satin Clear caused ALL paints (every type and brand) on the plastic inserts to crack, bubble, and flake. Seriously. You simply can't use it on Krylon or Rustoleum applied to the plastic in my Airstream. The Rust-Oleum clear coat did OK for the paints that were on the vinyl, but be aware that it clouded up a bit at first and then cleared up.

The Dupli-Color Acrylic Enamel "custom matte finish" is giving much better results. Be aware though, it did cause all the Rust-Oleum flavors to bubble and crack like the Rust-Oleum clear coat, though not quite as badly (Rust-Oleum is not doing well in these tests). The Dupli-Color Acrylic Matte Clear did very well with the Krylon Fusion and even with the Dupli-Color Trim & Bumper I put down last night (with minimal curing time). I'm going to wait a week for the clear coat to cure, and then we'll see how it does with the scratch test. I also like the matte finish of the Dupli-Color better (it's more "invisible") than the Rust-Oleum Satin (which has some sheen), but the comparison of the look isn't really fair as it's apples to oranges.

Also note that both the Rust-Oleum and Dupli-Color clear coats caused the Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover 2X Satin Aqua (the only actual color in the test) to discolor (both clear coats made it look a bit yellowed).

[BayRat]

In researching the Krylon Fusion, they offer a primer,
Colormaster Plastic Primer #12089
It says its made with Fusion for Plastic technology,
and can be top coated with other paints, which would
expand the color choices one could use, and still have the
Fusion performance.

[kidjedi]

Originally Posted by BayRat

In researching the Krylon Fusion, they offer a primer,
Colormaster Plastic Primer #12089
It says its made with Fusion for Plastic technology,
and can be top coated with other paints, which would
expand the color choices one could use, and still have the
Fusion performance.

I'll have to check that out. I've had pretty good success just using the Krylon ultraflat (comes in "hunting" colors like khaki and army green) as a primer. I ended up doing the plastic around my vista vues with the Rustoleum Ultra Cover Flat Primer and Ultra Cover Paint with a thousand coats of clear coat (well, maybe 10 coats). Fingers crossed that it holds up!

And the reason I was having problems with the clear coat (as mentioned in my previous post) was because I was putting it on WAY too heavy. You really do have to use a light touch. Like... so light you can't even see it on the surface. Just a lot of "whisper" coats.

[David F]

The gelcoated fiberglass bathroom in my '67 Caravel is very yellow, but otherwise in excellent shape. I do my own paintwork on my car restoration projects, so I am going to treat the bath like a car body. Holes and cracks will be enlarged and then filled with thickened epoxy resin. After cleaning, I will use 220 grit sand paper to roughen the surface. Finally, I will wipe with a silicon/grease remover, tack cloth and prime with epoxy primer thinned to act as a sealer. Within the recoat window, I will spray the bath with Dupont Fulthane automotive paint custom match to the paint color to be used on the rest of the trailer. Just need to figure out how to get ventilation through the trailer without bringing in a lot of dust. Spray equipment will be HVLP.

[DilmoreFarms]

If I am reading this thread correctly, under the vinyl wall paper, there is aluminium? So fi you strip the vinyl off you can polish the walls?
(ps very newbie)

[J. Morgan]

I am saying it is going to get dirty, if I were you I would plan on doing a bit of debris removal via wet sanding and polishing on spots.

Consider a pressure/remote air mask for that confined location.

Originally Posted by David F

The gelcoated fiberglass bathroom in my '67 Caravel is very yellow, but otherwise in excellent shape. I do my own paintwork on my car restoration projects, so I am going to treat the bath like a car body. Holes and cracks will be enlarged and then filled with thickened epoxy resin. After cleaning, I will use 220 grit sand paper to roughen the surface. Finally, I will wipe with a silicon/grease remover, tack cloth and prime with epoxy primer thinned to act as a sealer. Within the recoat window, I will spray the bath with Dupont Fulthane automotive paint custom match to the paint color to be used on the rest of the trailer. Just need to figure out how to get ventilation through the trailer without bringing in a lot of dust. Spray equipment will be HVLP.

Gradiens super tenui glacie.

[David F]

For sure. I am thinking of placing a box fan in the front window and drawing air through the roof vent with filter media taped over the opening. Any dust that gets pulled in will turn to the front and hopefully stay out of the paint. Next problem is painting in 100* Texas heat. There is currently a small window unit installed in the rear/bathroom window (that is scheduled to be removed) that I want to have running while painting (otherwise, I will sweat into the paint). I plan to install filter media over the air inlet. Finally, running the fan and a/c I am somewhat concerned about causing an explosion. New respirator (suitable for isocyanates) should suffice.

[BayRat]

David,
I would suggest shooting early in the morning to reduce heat issues.
Run the AC the night before to get it all cooled down.
When you are ready to start shooting, turn off the AC to avoid the explosive hazard.
You could put the box fan in the vent so it blows into the trailer, thus not being exposed to the paint fumes.
Also consider your lighting as an ignition source, especially if you use quartz light stands. The hot lights can also set off the paint fumes.

[BayRat]

kidjedi
My research has found that there are paints for the vinyl siding on houses.
I am wondering if they would perform well on the vinyl covered interiors?

http://www.sherwin-williams.com/home...-vinyl-siding/

and

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/f...luminum-siding

[Greg1410]

The Sign Lady - Great thread for painting. I plan on getting after my plastic end caps and bath tub very soon and plan on using krylon fusion paint. One question - did you use flat, satin, or gloss? Any recommendations for end caps and bath tub?
Thanks so much.
Greg

[my3sonsdad]

Still a great thread! Does anyone have any updated product experiences to share on using the Krylon primer to expand the top coat color choices?

[kidjedi]

After using more than 15 rattle cans to do the rear bedroom of a current build (took forever), I decided to try rolling on the paint for the kitchen/lounge. I used Valspar Bonding Primer and then Clark & Kensington Interior Satin Enamel. The rolled on paint/primer endures the scratch test WAY better than the spray cans. It just goes on so much thicker (while still looking smooth and even if you know your way around a paint roller).

[my3sonsdad]

C&K interior paint was also rolled on?

[kidjedi]

Originally Posted by my3sonsdad

C&K interior paint was also rolled on?

Yep. This was over the interior skins, though, not the end caps, so some texture was desired. Had I been doing the smoother end caps, I would have taken the time to spray.