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Old 09-27-2014, 12:09 PM   #29
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Unhappy Wish I would have seen this thread before..... !

I am attempting to restore the sink/bath in my 1976 International.... I've just applied the Homax Tough-as-Tile Tub, Sink & Tile Epoxy Finish and am worried.... It's a brush-on application and I can see brush strokes on the sink and counter surface and bath even though I was careful to follow all directions. I'm thinking I made a mistake and should have used the Krylon product instead. I was going to wait the required cure time and sand it lightly before applying a very light coat with a roller this time. Does anyone have any ideas on how to best salvage the project before I completely screw it up??
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:31 PM   #30
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I'm restoring my 1970s end caps finally :-)

The brush marks MAY "flow out" depending on how fast the stuff dries.

Even if they don't, they can be sanded out and the epoxy can be reapplied over the smoothly sanded surface, in a thinner coat.

Many epoxies can be reduced, (i.e. thinned with solvent) and it will "lay down" better.

If you sand for recoat I recommend sanding with about an 80 grit paper.

Believe it or not, with time and effort a brushed finish can be as smooth as glass.

If you are going to sand the epoxy, get it when it is firm enough to sand, but before if totally "kicks".

There is a window where sanding is easy and effective, but when that stuff really sets up it is really hard.
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Old 09-29-2014, 09:23 AM   #31
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J. Morgan thank you for replying on the epoxy part for gretseyr56 I am not that familiar with working with epoxy products. Although I am learning somewhat right now as my son's scout troop are building plywood tender boats using epoxy and fiberglass cloth. The one thing I have learned by watching the kids is there is a certain point where their boat builder instructor insists they have to stop touching the boats and just let it level out on its own or go back later after it has dried and work on that area again. That is the kicking point that J. Morgan mentions. So my recommendation to you is to give it a good sanding and continue with the product you are using and recoat it, but work in smaller areas this time if you can, separate the job at what ever seams your bathroom has. If you can break it into smaller areas you will have less chance of the product starting to kick over and causing the brush drag marks that you ended up with the first time.

Gretseyr56 I believe you also private messaged me about doing your end caps but that you have already purchased rustoleum. My recommendation there is to return that if you can and purchase krylon fusion paint for plastics if it is available near you. It is so easy to use and has tried and true results.

Others may step in here that have used the rustoleum successfully on their plastics if they would like, give us your opinions of what you liked or didn't about working with that product. Is it a one can application like the krylon fusion or do you need to prime or topcoat or both with rustoleum?

Whatever product you go with in the end I would always recommend doing a paint test. I have put a step by step how to lesson on doing a paint test in my fridge restoration thread here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f425/interior-restoration-of-old-yellowed-dometic-fridge-in-airstream-trailers-or-motorhom-125067.html
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Old 12-22-2014, 06:12 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thesignlady View Post
During the process of un jamming the doors they of course got some silicone spray on to them so I had to get that off to be able to use the Krylon Fusion on them. I threw them in a sink full of hot soapy, bleachy, Oxi cleaned water and gave them a massive scrubbing. Took 'em outside scrubbed them down with 000 steel wool ( which by the way, almost that alone brought them up to their previous glory days coloring) then hosed them down and applied a degreaser with a Mr Clean magic sponge and hosed them again....I really, really wanted to make sure there was no silicone left in them
never would have thought these could be soaked in water! it doesnt warp them at all? i removed mine 2 days ago and gave them a good scrub down but not quite this intense.
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Old 12-23-2014, 12:48 AM   #33
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The tambours in the argosy are all plastic glued to a mesh backing. I went into their restoration with the attitude that right now they look like crap and if I kill them I'll cut some new ones. In the end they held up really well, there was no separation of the mesh from the tambours that wasn't already there before I started abusing them
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:28 PM   #34
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Question Even an amateur?

[QUOTE=thesignlady;1506627] Spray on your first thin coat holding the can eight inches from the surface go in a wide sweeping back and forth pattern never shifting direction on the surface you are painting or you WILL get runs, allow to dry one hour and give it a once over with 000 steel wool again wash clean and let dry again.

Hey Sign Lady,
Thanks SO much for this thread, for all the details and pics. I have been dreading the attempt to restore my end caps and tambour doors and this does give me hope.

My mother used Pine Sol for everything and I continue to use it, mostly out of nostalgia, but I'm glad to hear it's still good for some things.

However, I don't have any spray-painting skills and I'm not sure I'll be able to do this without ruining the parts. In the above quote you mention that you should spray back and forth, but don't shift direction.

Do you mean, spray past the edge, turn, and then go back?

And how much do you allow the two lines of spray to overlap?

Is it better to spray quickly and incompletely, or more slowly and thickly? I guess the former, since the latter is likely to generate drips. Is it even possible to smooth out the drips quickly with some other tool? If so, what kind of tool?

Thanks for any comments, and thanks so much again for the whole thing!
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:42 PM   #35
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Yup, most important part is to ensure your cap is prepped very well, that it is good and clean and thoroughly dry. There is a short YouTube clip I posted in this thread of the spray pattern and speed I went at. Go thin and do multiple coats you will be much happier in the end. It will look blotchy and somewhat unattractive for the first two coats, resist the urge to spray it on thicker. The one thing my film doesn't show is how far past the end cap I had taped off to protect from over spray, I didn't have the camera placed back far enough.
I had one full width of opened newspaper taped off on either side at the lower portion of the cap which was where I sprayed to and shifted direction back the other way on. In between your coats check your taped off area to make sure it hasn't come loose from the weight the paint adds to the paper. Re-tape if necessary. Pay very particular attention to the directions on the can in regards to what temperature it should be used between and the frequency in between the coats. If you spray when it is to cold you get ripples in the paint. I recently was spraying my fridge interior in two degree temps and it caused it to ripple, oops... No biggie it can be sanded out and I'll respray after it sets for a week or two and warms up here. If you get a drip I would recommend have an absorbent paper towel or old shirt near by and dip it in the lower part of the drip to suck up some of excess paint before it runs more. You'll still have sanding out to do but a little less. Also if you've never tried spray painting before you could always pick up a cheapo can of spray paint and practice on a cardboard box to get the hang of a comfortable spray pattern for you.

Spraying the end caps: http://youtu.be/YZLO72FJbY8


Take a breath, take your time and you can do it :-)
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:35 AM   #36
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Don't use 000 steel wool, or ANY steel wool for finish work for that matter. Use a ScotchBrite equivalent to avoid rusty bits of steel in the finish...
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Old 12-29-2014, 08:46 AM   #37
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Thumbs up link says it's private

Hi Sign Lady,

Thanks for your patience and the extra info. It's much easier to imagine doing it now, although your Youtube video is marked Private, I wasn't able to see the video, even after logging into Airforums.

Also, rmkrum, thanks for the alert about the steel wool.
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Old 12-29-2014, 02:54 PM   #38
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Also use plenty of ventilation and a NIOSH certified mask for spray paint to protect your lungs. Tyvek coveralls are a nice fashion accessory as well. The home improvement stores carry all that stuff. Be safe!


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Old 12-30-2014, 02:28 AM   #39
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Oops, alright I went back in and hopefully made the youtube clip not private.
Let me know if it worked :-)

And yes there is definitely a great amount of logic to being careful to not have rusty bits coming through when using steel wool, but for those quirky enough to wash between each coat as I do you'll be fine. Some areas are just too snug to wield a scotch brite pad particularly when you get into tighter areas I have encountered in my airstream painting endevors such as the molded soap dish fluting and the refrigerator shelving areas
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Old 12-30-2014, 09:31 AM   #40
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Thumbs up Such a pro!

Hey Sign Lady,

I love it, you are such a pro! But I'm gonna try it, too. And thanks for the mask warning, rmkrum. I don't know if I can find one down here in Baja, but I'll look. And I hope I happen to see your rig bristling with antennae one of these days on the road.
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:09 PM   #41
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I live in Courtenay and want to attempt the end caps on our 94. Is there any special brand of spray paint to purchase? Great step by step breakdown, Thanks
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Old 01-19-2015, 12:16 PM   #42
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Question spray v rolled or brushed on

I just talked with the owner of a nice old Excella, I think it was, who came into our campground and she told me that she'd painted hers with a roller. I'm wondering if you've tried that so as to compare it to the spray. I realize that the spray you're using bonds with the plastic, which is a big plus, and that the finish is a lot more even when you spray. But do you happen to know if that spray lasts a LOT longer than rolling or brushing on a conventional latex or oil onto the end caps? Does the rolled-on paint crack? chip? I mean, what exactly is the complaint about it?

Thanks!
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