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Old 03-31-2015, 03:12 PM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
1958 18' "Footer"
North Pole , Alaska
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 150
How hard to redo aluminum interior end caps?

I am new here. Also new to Airstreams. We have a 1968 Safari International that we are in the process of renovating. The majority of the walls are a bit of a no brainer for me. My question being one that probably pops up frequently, are replacement end caps. I would like to do them all in Aluminum. I also need to know what size and type of aluminum to use.

Would this process work for a 1968?
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ed-102982.html

Also wondering what type of plywood to use for the floor. I know that I shouldn't use PT (I know this from Aluminum boats I have done), but is there any thickness and grade that works better?

I also read somewhere that there is a guy named Colin Hyde that may possibly make new aluminum for the end caps pre trimmed and drilled, but there are about 10 Colin H's in the directory. Thanks everyone for any help. I am sure I will be coming to everyone much more frequently once we get more into this.

Thanks everyone!

Seth
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Old 03-31-2015, 04:21 PM   #2
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2014 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Chelsea , Michigan
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Here is Colin's email address:

colinhydeairstream(at)gmail.com

(just substitute the @ symbol in the proper place.)

His shop is in Plattsburgh, NY but he ships stuff all over.
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Old 04-01-2015, 05:49 PM   #3
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1967 22' Safari
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North Pole , Alaska
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Thanks!
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Old 04-01-2015, 07:24 PM   #4
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1975 31' Sovereign
howell , Michigan
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http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...ed-102982.html
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:58 PM   #5
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1967 22' Safari
1958 18' "Footer"
North Pole , Alaska
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How did you figure out where to place the edges on the bottom portion? Did you just measure then divide it by the number of segments?
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:09 PM   #6
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1985 25' Sovereign
Okc , Oklahoma
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have a 85 Sovereign, with cracks in both interior front and rear endcaps (plastic, ABS, ????). Any suggestions on how to stop, and or repair them?
thanks
Lee
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Old 04-03-2015, 10:29 AM   #7
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1967 22' Safari
1958 18' "Footer"
North Pole , Alaska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larry b View Post
Did you use a punch for the holes, or drill them out at 1/8"?

Thanks,

Seth
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Old 04-04-2015, 04:08 PM   #8
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1975 31' Sovereign
howell , Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badpaddler View Post
Did you use a punch for the holes, or drill them out at 1/8"?

Thanks,

Seth
Just measured and devideded, used a center punch to put a dimple in the aluminum and then drilled. Made a little gauge out of aluminum to keep the rivets the same distance from the edge and from each other.
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Old 04-06-2015, 10:32 AM   #9
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1967 22' Safari
1958 18' "Footer"
North Pole , Alaska
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Posts: 150
Quote:
Originally Posted by larry b View Post
Just measured and devideded, used a center punch to put a dimple in the aluminum and then drilled. Made a little gauge out of aluminum to keep the rivets the same distance from the edge and from each other.
Thanks! Got her gutted last night, so I will be getting the floors out next! It is necessary to support the roof and everything when you take the floors out? I removed the AC unit last night, but did find where 2 of the vertical ribs had popped all their rivets. One of them sort of twisted in the process. What is the easiest way to fix these? I noticed that it will be pulling the roof down to it. Is that normal (as opposed to it getting pulled to the roof?)?

There are also 2 horizontal ones that popped out, and one has a crack in it, but I should be able to handle those.
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:18 AM   #10
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1967 22' Safari
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Also curious as to what kind of seal sealer and insulation you would recommend. Already looks like I am going to get to learn how to buck rivet. Fun times ahead!
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