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Old 07-24-2008, 11:00 AM   #1
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Help! Knowledge needed / walls

My husband and I are remodeling our 1976 31' Sovereign with rear bath.

We have gutted her back to the bathroom and are now ready to install cabinets and dividing walls for the kitchen, bedroom and bath.

The stock we are using is 1/2" plywood and I can't for the life of me figure out how we will attach it the the AS.

I thought I could just by channel or some sort of extrusion to rivet or screw into the wall and slide the new dividers right into it but I can't find a thing! The ones that we removed are to narrow.

How are you guys installing new dividers in your AS's.

Thank you so much in advance.

Kani

PS. ASAP answers would be great as we start on the infill this weekend. (July 26 2008)
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:17 AM   #2
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You could use two independent pieces of aluminum L - one on each side. It can be purchased in long lengths - hopefully long enough you don't have to butt two pieces. Place your divider against the wall and pencil the outline. Start with one side of the aluminum angle and drill and screw to the ceiling/wall - 1/2 stainless screws. Set the divider against the first angle and drill/screw it into place - then add the other side angle. Get as thin aluminum stock as you can get so it's easier to form into place.

Just another thought - I'd use max. 1/4 sheeting to reduce the weight.....
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Old 07-24-2008, 11:49 AM   #3
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Batlhroom repair???

Quote:
Originally Posted by 76sovereign View Post
...We have gutted her back to the bathroom and are now ready to install cabinets and dividing walls for the kitchen, bedroom and bath....
Kani:

Congrats on getting as far as you have - unfortunately, I am unable to view the pics at your blog...

Just wondering, how have you tied the new flooring into the shell? I had to replace a bit of the front and rear floor when I redid the '78, and I would have had a real challenge trying to get any more of the flooring to slide into position than I did between the shell "U" channel and the frame....http://www.airforums.com/forums/f219...ign-14737.html

Also, I hope you have adequetly inspected all of the perimeter around the bath for possible rotten floor at the frame/shell interface - as you have discovered everything forward would have to come out should you need to repair the frame/floor/shell interface in the bath.

Just a heads up, as I did not discover the extent of the rotten floor under the "U" channel until after I had everything out of the rear and dropped the belly pan in the back.....I took an ice pick and found out that I had WAY more damage than I originally thought from just a surface inspection.

From the way your side damage (rot) was described I would have expected quite a bit of perimeter rot around the bath area.

Luck.
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Old 07-24-2008, 12:52 PM   #4
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Alum Channel

Maybe soemthing like this ?

Speedy Metals - 3/4" {A} x 3/4" {B} x 1/8" {C} Channel 6063-T52 Aluminum, Extruded

This is what I'm going to try when the time comes... Right now I'm still in floor and frame repair land ...

Good luck,
Joe
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:49 PM   #5
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Thumbs up

Yes, I agree about the 1/4" plywood. I was at Lowes today checking out some plywood today and decided that 1/2" or 7/16th is way to heavy for what we are doing. Great idea about the aluminum L! You have relieved a lot of stress on my part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ganglin View Post
You could use two independent pieces of aluminum L - one on each side. It can be purchased in long lengths - hopefully long enough you don't have to butt two pieces. Place your divider against the wall and pencil the outline. Start with one side of the aluminum angle and drill and screw to the ceiling/wall - 1/2 stainless screws. Set the divider against the first angle and drill/screw it into place - then add the other side angle. Get as thin aluminum stock as you can get so it's easier to form into place.

Just another thought - I'd use max. 1/4 sheeting to reduce the weight.....
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:54 PM   #6
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Fortunately we didn't have bad floors in the bath. As far as the floor are you talking about the sub flooring? The new Flooring is a floating floor so no attachment there. The flooring in the front at the U will be under the seating area so that left us with some breathing room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 87MH View Post
Kani:

Congrats on getting as far as you have - unfortunately, I am unable to view the pics at your blog...

Just wondering, how have you tied the new flooring into the shell? I had to replace a bit of the front and rear floor when I redid the '78, and I would have had a real challenge trying to get any more of the flooring to slide into position than I did between the shell "U" channel and the frame....http://www.airforums.com/forums/f219...ign-14737.html

Also, I hope you have adequetly inspected all of the perimeter around the bath for possible rotten floor at the frame/shell interface - as you have discovered everything forward would have to come out should you need to repair the frame/floor/shell interface in the bath.

Just a heads up, as I did not discover the extent of the rotten floor under the "U" channel until after I had everything out of the rear and dropped the belly pan in the back.....I took an ice pick and found out that I had WAY more damage than I originally thought from just a surface inspection.

From the way your side damage (rot) was described I would have expected quite a bit of perimeter rot around the bath area.

Luck.
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Old 07-24-2008, 04:55 PM   #7
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Yes something like that would work but it would have to be thin enough to bend to the shape of the AS ceilings.
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Originally Posted by UpNorthAir View Post
Maybe something like this ?

Speedy Metals - 3/4" {A} x 3/4" {B} x 1/8" {C} Channel 6063-T52 Aluminum, Extruded

This is what I'm going to try when the time comes... Right now I'm still in floor and frame repair land ...

Good luck,
Joe
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:03 AM   #8
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An aluminum extrusion will not bend without tons of hydraulic pressure reforming the piece gradually while being drawn through mandrels to retain the original tolerances. I hope someone shares a category-killer method!
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:21 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by 76sovereign View Post
Yes something like that would work but it would have to be thin enough to bend to the shape of the AS ceilings.
Anodized wall extrusions are still available from Airstream.

A few parts stocking dealers would have then.

They easily bend by simply pushing them against the wall, as you rivet them in place.

They also are designed to accept a barbed clip that slips over the edge of the plywood, which helps keeping the plywood in place.

However, it's still a good idea to rivet the plywood in place, thru the extrusion.

Andy
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Old 07-25-2008, 09:24 AM   #10
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Arrow

Where pray tell are the extrusion channels that you removed ? Why did you do away with the prior Laminate covered bulkhead panels? They would have made fine templates for your new plywood panels.. plus they could have been painted or papered with vinyl coverings.
Another "solultion" if you have lost the channel might be to use "L" shaped double brackets similar to what bathroom stalls are attached to walls with in commercial settings (sittings). Problem is that the channel could be placed between bows (studs) but the individual brackets might not do as well on a wall area not backed with the bow.

I think Inland Andy's solution regarding the factory extrusion channel is the best bet, But make sure your new wood panels will fit inside the groove before you order. And yes "U-channel extrusions" will deflect enough (usually) to mate against the side walls fairly well. Obviously some configurations of some extrusions will not deflect (bend) at all without folding or distorting per Wabbiteer's statement.
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Old 07-25-2008, 10:58 AM   #11
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You can easily "rabbet" the edge of your 1/2" plywood down to the 1/4" dictated by the extrusion with a ball-bearing guided rabbet bit for a router. You just need the appropriate diameter bit, and bearing, to rabbet off what you need to fit into the channel.
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Old 07-25-2008, 02:18 PM   #12
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Thanks Andy..I really like the idea of barbed clips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Anodized wall extrusions are still available from Airstream.

A few parts stocking dealers would have then.

They easily bend by simply pushing them against the wall, as you rivet them in place.

They also are designed to accept a barbed clip that slips over the edge of the plywood, which helps keeping the plywood in place.

However, it's still a good idea to rivet the plywood in place, thru the extrusion.

Andy
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Old 07-25-2008, 02:33 PM   #13
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Why do I feel like a just got scolded by my Dad?

We still have the channels/extrusions we removed and the panels we can use as a template. We didn't want to paint, or paper or put vinyl on the partitions it's not the look we are going for.
Thanks for the input.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Distantdrummer View Post
Where pray tell are the extrusion channels that you removed ? Why did you do away with the prior Laminate covered bulkhead panels? They would have made fine templates for your new plywood panels.. plus they could have been painted or papered with vinyl coverings.
Another "solultion" if you have lost the channel might be to use "L" shaped double brackets similar to what bathroom stalls are attached to walls with in commercial settings (sittings). Problem is that the channel could be placed between bows (studs) but the individual brackets might not do as well on a wall area not backed with the bow.

I think Inland Andy's solution regarding the factory extrusion channel is the best bet, But make sure your new wood panels will fit inside the groove before you order. And yes "U-channel extrusions" will deflect enough (usually) to mate against the side walls fairly well. Obviously some configurations of some extrusions will not deflect (bend) at all without folding or distorting per Wabbiteer's statement.
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Old 07-25-2008, 02:47 PM   #14
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Makes since......Who'd a thunk it? The more I hear the more I am glad I saved the original extrusions. We will make them work by using the rabbit joint router method tphan suggested OR I have been thinking about going with 1/4" Maple Plywood for the partitions/bulkheads, that would make things much simpler, lighter and cheaper too and I am all for that.
Thank you all for your suggestions. It really means a lot to have you and your experience here for us.
Quote:
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An aluminum extrusion will not bend without tons of hydraulic pressure reforming the piece gradually while being drawn through mandrels to retain the original tolerances. I hope someone shares a category-killer method!
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