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Old 12-12-2012, 02:45 PM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromis View Post
Isn't Stainless + Aluminium + Moisture bad ?
Good point and I'm not sure. Many different metals react electrically and cause corrosion, but how much and whether it matters are a question for metalurgists. Maybe chrome is also a problem. Various combinations of metals react fast and matter or so slowly to not matter.

A thin nonmetalic washer between the 2 metals would solve the problem. Paper washers may be available or could be cut out of paper. A black rubber washer between shiny metals could provide an attractive contrast under the principle of if you can't hide it, show it off.

I put a stainless steel electrical receptacle cover plate against the aluminum interior 5 years ago replacing the plastic one. So far, no corrosion. It is in the kitchen where there's a lot of water vapor.

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Old 12-13-2012, 06:35 PM   #58
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Smile Droopy headliner

To Melody Ranch et. al....the plastic scrappers (many) worked quite well in tandem with the remover plus they did not leave drag marks on the ceiling. One swipe, lift, remove and throw away. Tedious, but worked well.
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:32 PM   #59
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Fasteners

My 2003 Safari started sagging in 2011.

We decided to repair it ourselves.

Plastic buttons were installed on 12 inch intervals to hold up the head-liner. The 5/8 inch drill point screw was used to make sure a hole wasn’t drilled through the roof and to speed up the job. The buttons were snapped onto the washer using minimal force but some buttons required driving into place with a rubber mallet. The pattern used was designed to look like a quilt pattern, continuous from one end of the trailer to the other.

The first step was to precisely locate the trailer’s center line. A string was installed and kept taut by use of a spring on one end. A laser level mounted on an old camera tripod was used to show the center line and the laser center line was marked on the ceiling at twelve inch intervals using sticky labels. Round sticky labels were used because their one-quarter inch diameter enabled leaving them in place on the ceiling, thereby reducing the over all effort of the project.

Next, using the laser again, a forty-five degree diagonal line was marked at each of the 12 inch intervals. It was important to use the same color label throughout in order to facilitate pattern evaluation before drilling holes. I ran into a problem when working over the storage compartment under the bed. The wood strength of the storage compartment was not enough to prevent it from flexing as I moved about, thus causing movement of the laser mark.

Total time required was 12 hours.








Materials List for Head-liner Repair

Item Quantity Cost
Cap, color almond, plastic Package of 100 $5.00 2 each $10.00
Part number: PD88 103
Washer, countersunk, plastic Package of 100 $5.00 2 each $10.00
Part number: PD88 W

Source: Woodwokers Hardware
P.O. Box 180
Sauk Rapids, MD 56390
(800) 383-0130

Screw, Phillips, 8-18, flat head, Package of 100 $8.91 2 each $17.82
drill point, stainless steel
Part number: 94195A137

Source: McMaster-Carr
200 New Canton Way
Robbinsville, NJ 08691-2343
(609) 689-3000

Labels, Avery, 1/4 inch diameter, Package of 700 $699 1 each $6.99
sticky
Source: Staples Office Supply
Part number: 5795

Total cost of material $37.82
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:29 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by alscottfree View Post
The 1997 25' Safari That We Are Picking Up Sunday Has The Headliners Coming Down In Some Areas. We Are Assured There Were No Leaks, Just Extreme Heat & Cold - But We Have No Idea What Product Or Process To Use To Reglue Or Reattach This. Help????
Thanks, Al
All I tell is what we did. We removed the ceiling material (ours was foam backed vinyl) removed most of the glue residue from the plywood. Then remover the cabinets and glued hardboard ceiling material (you can get from most RV supply stores) onto the plywood. Looks great will last forever and was the best way out for us. You CANNOT re-glue foam backed ceiling material, we tried. I don't care what this guy says his roof leaks.
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Old 10-19-2013, 08:42 AM   #61
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All I tell is what we did. We removed the ceiling material (ours was foam backed vinyl) removed most of the glue residue from the plywood. Then remover the cabinets and glued hardboard ceiling material (you can get from most RV supply stores) onto the plywood. Looks great will last forever and was the best way out for us. You CANNOT re-glue foam backed ceiling material, we tried. I don't care what this guy says his roof leaks.
I would love to see a picture of your ceiling!
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:37 PM   #62
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Cable—nice job.

Gene
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:09 PM   #63
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1995 Excella Ceiling drooping

We have noticed that several Airstreamers on this forum have suggested using 5/8" screws to reattach the headliner. My husband is concerned that the screw will puncture the outer skin of the roof of our rig. That can't be true, since others have done this. Can you tell us if we have the clearance to use such screws to fix our problem????
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Old 05-07-2018, 03:12 PM   #64
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The exterior to interior cavity space is 1 1/2 inches. 5/8 screws will be fine.
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Old 05-07-2018, 05:43 PM   #65
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The exterior to interior cavity space is 1 1/2 inches. 5/8 screws will be fine.
But why??? 1/4" is more than enough.
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:34 PM   #66
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1/4 is great too. 4wheeler mentioned using 5/8.
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Old 05-18-2018, 01:45 PM   #67
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we are in the same boat. 3m spray glue did a temporary job. but we are removing and replacing with a grass reed wallpaper.
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