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Old 08-29-2010, 05:52 PM   #29
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Springfield , Missouri
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Originally Posted by Aviator View Post
The ceiling in our 1997 was drooping badly. It had even pulled away from on of the trim pieces enough to leave a gap when you held it back in place. We had seen a couple of Airstreams which have had the ceiling screwed back up with caps on the screw heads. (Think upholstered look).

When we joined the Georgia WBCCI, we found out that Warren Fore, the club president does the work and does it very well.

I am sure if Coolbikeman and Warren were at the same rally, Warren would be happy to do the ceiling.

You should be able to contact him through the "Top of Georgia" website.

Thanks for the tip, AVIATOR. Maybe if I buy this one I am looking at, I can look him up.

Terry
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:00 AM   #30
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We also had this problem. We took it all down and had it reholstered $2500 later, it looks new and it should . I need to know about replacing the draperies, our are rotten and look bad. That is a lot of sewing, all those pleats...any suggestions where to go?
Hello Starfire,

I tried to send you an email thinking that would be the quickest way to contact you. Don't see where there have been any messages sent to you in my message sent section. So, I will try posting on the forum.

I was wondering where you had your Airstream ceiling replaced? That is much cheaper than having it done at the Airstream factory. Also, do you know if the material used will not have this same problem say in another 15 years or less? I just don't want to have to spend the money more than once. I am looking at a 1995 Excella 34' that is starting to show the sagging ceiling in one spot.

Thanks,

Terry
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Old 08-31-2010, 02:53 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by coolbikeman View Post
Hello Starfire,

I tried to send you an email thinking that would be the quickest way to contact you. Don't see where there have been any messages sent to you in my message sent section. So, I will try posting on the forum.

I was wondering where you had your Airstream ceiling replaced? That is much cheaper than having it done at the Airstream factory. Also, do you know if the material used will not have this same problem say in another 15 years or less? I just don't want to have to spend the money more than once. I am looking at a 1995 Excella 34' that is starting to show the sagging ceiling in one spot.

Thanks,

Terry
Terry.

The foam backed material was fine.

The entire problem rested with the Feds making Airstream use a "water based adhesive". It's the adhesive that failed.

Unfortunately, in order to correct the problem, all traces of the old adhesive must be removed. Then and only then, can you use a good adhesive with the same foam backed wall covering.

Andy
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Old 03-10-2011, 04:41 PM   #32
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This thread won't go away because the problem keeps cropping up to new owners. Count me in the "take-it-all-off-with-a-stripper" crowd. I can't wait to see that bare aluminum skin... pun intended.

Which brings me to the old chemistry question: What's the best remover of old adhesive? Acetone? One search of mine turned up a reference to a citrus-based adhesive remover called "Rapid Remover." Has anyone here tried it or a comparable product?

Thanks!
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Old 03-10-2011, 05:35 PM   #33
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Just from what I have read on the subject, it seems as though the aluminum inside the trailers which was originally covered at the factory, is not as good quality as the stuff they leave bare on some trailers. In other words, don't expect the same quality of finish after you clean it up. I'm fairly certain less care was taken with the interior aluminum that was scheduled to be covered as compared to the trailers that have the bare aluminum interior walls and ceilings to begin with.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:05 PM   #34
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I just finished doing the section of my (previously droopy) ceiling. It was over the main living area and I had to remove curtain valances, curtains, curtain rods, fan trim, tv antenna crank, skylight trim, and the smoke detector. Per some advice from Andy (Inland RV) in an older post, I used lacquer thinner and followed up with a degreaser. The lacquer thinner worked great. Use lots of rags and ventilate the trailer while you work. I then had a local auto upholsterer glue up the new ceiling liner (which I picked up last year at the factory). After a few hours of reinstalling all of the trim pieces, everything looks great now.

Regarding the aluminum lining, a number of my rivets had painted heads and holes were drilled in the aluminum (I guess for rivets) with just a small piece of masking tape over them. I guess you could put rivets in the holes and re-rivet the painted rivets.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:21 PM   #35
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OK, this is my first post in a couple of years, and thought this was a good place to start.

About 3 years ago my headliner failed completely. I bit the bullet and decided to clean the remaining foam and glue off. I found that I could get quite a lot of the remaining foam off of the ceiling by using a shop vac and crevice tool, and sort of "scrubbing" the ceiling with it. This cut down a lot on the mess.

The next thing I did was to open all the windows for good ventilation. To remove the remaining glue I used (brace yourself) brake cleaner. I found that I could spray/soak an area of the ceiling to weaken the hold of the glue. Then, before it dried was able to wipe quite a lot of it off using an old rag (also saturated with brake cleaner). For the toughest spots, I would soak the rag, then hold it against the spot, which allowed it to penetrate well without evaporating. The tough spots came off easily with this method. Final wipedown was again with a clean rag moistened with the brake cleaner.

I decided to leave the ceiling area from the entry door back to the bathroom area as bare metal. However I did reapply new vinyl to the section forward of that. I used Reflectix in lieu of foam because I figured it might act as a better insulator than a thin layer of foam. I first sprayed 3M High Strength 90 adhesive on the ceiling, and on the section of Reflectix. I let each set for about 5-7 minutes, then joined them. I followed this with a section of new vinyl - spraying both it and Reflectix waiting the 5-7 again, then joined the two. The bond between the two are quite strong, and I expect that this combination will last many many years - it's already lasted through 2 summers, one which was one of the hottest on record for Texas. Still looks great. Only thing to remember is that when applying the vinyl to the Reflectix do so with the flats of your hands - if you press with your fingers too much, you start to see the texture of the Reflectix underneath.

This was the solution for me. It may not be for everyone, and some may opine that it's a bad idea, won't work, etc., All I'm saying is it was a suitable solution, and in reference to my post way back in this thread, preferable to adding a bunch of additional holes in my ceiling.

Peace, out!
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:39 PM   #36
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I may have to give brake cleaner a try... but better get a face mask with a solvent filter first. That stuff is woozier than goof-off and will erase your brain if you let it.

I've scraped much of the foam off the ceiling from my A/C to the Gaucho area, and the funky smell it releases is staggering. But to Airstream's credit, I must say I'm pleasantly surprised by the good looking aluminum skin underneath. Some solvents, spit 'n polish will make those things nice... and vastly less dated looking than that 90s vinyl.

Now how to get rid of that pastel watercolor floral pattern in the kitchen and bathroom walls?
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Old 03-11-2011, 08:03 PM   #37
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I use brake cleaner for a lot of jobs. Think about it. It is designed to:
Degrease, clean and dry.
Not be harmful to:
natural rubber, paint, synthetic rubbers, all petroleum sensitive brake parts.

Get the original formula, not the "green" non-chlorinated stuff. The latter is not as good.
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Old 03-18-2011, 07:02 PM   #38
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I tried a variety of products that were laying around in my garage and this was my experience so far:

a) Goof-Off graffiti remover works better than regular Goof-Off, but not really that great.

b) One brand of brake cleaner (CRG Brand, in red printed cans) worked quite well, but another brand (Johnson, in a green can) turned out a complete dud.

c) Turpentine is mostly useless.

d) Automotive Gasket Remover has proven to be most efficient so far but it's GNARLY and creates a dark, brown sludge out of the foam/adhesive.

e) This is a horrendously filthy and laborious task, and I'm down to doing small areas at a time. Even though I've got the fancy solvent respirator, I'm not staying in there too long. I will try the Jasco product and some Lacquer Thinner next, and so by the time I'm done with this job, I'll know exactly how to do it.
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Old 03-21-2011, 12:03 PM   #39
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Now how to get rid of that pastel watercolor floral pattern in the kitchen and bathroom walls?
I know, it's mighty ugly. In the kitchen, the wallpaper was on it's own sheet of aluminum. I ended up removing it, once I learned that the main inner aluminum skin was behind it. It looks as good as the bare ceiling, with the exception of one spot where some moisture at some point apparently got between it and the wallpaper, leaving a large area of oxidation.

In the bathroom it's the same story on the wall over the lavatory, but everywhere else it's obviously on the wood. I'm betting that the adhesive is strong enough to damage the wood if I were to attempt removal, so I'm considering paint there, but likely will "skin" those areas with aluminum or thin sheet acrylic.

On the brake cleaner choice, I've had good luck with the O'Reilly brand. I don't have a can in front of me, but I believe the main ingredient in it is Methyl Ethyl Ketone, or M.E.K. I actually used that back when I de-striped my Limited. It was the best option at the time because it didn't dry before fully penetrating the adhesive, like lacquer thinner does.
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:49 PM   #40
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Reading what you guys are going through, I am very glad we have the aluminum interior.

Gene
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Old 03-21-2011, 02:28 PM   #41
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We also had this problem. We took it all down and had it reholstered $2500 later, it looks new and it should . I need to know about replacing the draperies, our are rotten and look bad. That is a lot of sewing, all those pleats...any suggestions where to go?
I bought the $11 rolling shades from home depot. Then we pulled off the plastic sheet and cut to size my fabric choice and glued to the roller. It looks a million times better than those heavy pleated drapes and we use the windows for a breezeway every day compared to never when we had to fiddle w drapes and blinds as before. Havent used the AC all season yet in the sweltering Texas sun!
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Old 07-09-2011, 11:11 PM   #42
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I was wondering about just cutting out old vinyl and removing old adhesive. Could I just leave ceiling bare metal would the finish look ok if I did this I could experiment in bedroom due to being smaller area. Any suggestions on this thanks in advance!
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