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Old 02-28-2008, 12:56 AM   #1
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Guinea Pig

Judging by the lack of results when searching for people who have replaces their walls, I guess I will take the 'guinea pig' route.

I am installing this product on all of my interior walls. I tried one piece and it seems to bend sufficiently for a good install.

Going back to get enough to complete the interior and dividing walls.

DPI - Designer Paneling

I am installing radiant barrier insulation and then these panels with a foam sheet between the panel and the support 'beams.'

Has anybody else done this with success?
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Old 02-28-2008, 01:21 AM   #2
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hey nw'

no doubt u looked at these 2 pages of threads?

http://www.airforums.com/forums/sear...earchid=982550

cheers
2air'
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Old 02-28-2008, 07:10 AM   #3
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2air -- that link doesn't go anywhere. Curious to see what you found.

NWO - I see two considerations. The inner aluminum sheeting is vital to stiffness of the shell. Taking that off could have consequences. Second is that adding a new wall material would probably weigh a fair amount by the time you were done and could make payload a thin, touchy number. People have refinished interior panels and reapplied zolotone.
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Old 02-28-2008, 09:41 AM   #4
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I would be a little concerned about the "not recommended for below grade" note on their web page. Airstreams tend to sweat in the winter due to moisture given off by cooking, heating, and just plain old breathing. This could be a problem for this wall covering material.

Zep
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:49 AM   #5
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Adding support

Would it help to add 4" sheets of aluminum along the length, riveted to the ribs, and then attach the wall panels to the ribs and the new 4" sheets?

This would provide a lot more points to attach the wall panels and effectively increase strength.

I tested one of these panels for strength. I can bend it so that the two 4' ends are almost touching each other and it doesn't break. You can hear that it is starting to think about it, but it holds together no problem.

I would waterproof the back side of the panels before installing, and there is a double layer of radiant barrier foil insulation with space between layers going in as well.

I have removed a lot of weight already, so that is not an issue. They make these boards for bathrooms that you can actually use as shower walls. Not worried about the moisture too much.

AS will be parked at the lake and stay there for the rest of my days. Movement and travel are not an issue either. I just have to take it 90 miles, one time, and be done.


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Old 02-28-2008, 11:36 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
hey nw'

no doubt u looked at these 2 pages of threads?

cheers
2air'
woops,

here is the list,

about 1/2 of these threads are relevant or related to interior wall replacements...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/sear...earchid=982813

cheers
2air'
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:02 PM   #7
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I think it will work.

I just went out and put in a 16' section of 6" aluminum flashing from the edge of the door rearward just tacking it in with a few rivets to see how it would hold. Even with the few test rivets, it is solid.

I think that if I did this (put up flashing at all seams of the wall boards) it will work great. That will give me three inches of flashing at the edge of each panel. It also gives a lot more room at floor line for attaching the panels.

Am putting in laminate wood flooring so I am optimistic about the outcome.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:16 PM   #8
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Isn't the product your installing using a wood byproduct backing, like MDF? Considering damp and condensation, I'm not sure it'll last all that long before it starts to degrade.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:25 PM   #9
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Confusion...

Everybody kept mentioning the moisture and that it would be a problem, so I clicked on the link I put in....

I put in the wrong link. The product I have is at

DPI - Smooth Paneling#

I got the PT Swirl.

This is meant for higher moisture areas.
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:48 PM   #10
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It sounds as though the exposed face resists moisture, but what about the back side? You have to remember that you can get moisture between the outer an inner skins by a leak or by thermal bridging through the aluminum wall frame. If this product still has an MDF or fibreboard backing, I would be concerned. Also, organic material can become a breeding ground for mold.
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Old 02-28-2008, 03:04 PM   #11
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Like I said... guinea pig.

I am going to try it.

I am sealing the backs as much as possible.

Short of installing new aluminum skin, this is the only viable option I have found. The old skin was torn, corroded, full of extra holes that needn't be there...

I have never found anybody on here who has actually tried it (let alone told of the failure afterward.)

The rest of the interior design is simple and modular. If at some point I have to pull it all out again, then so be it. I will then tell everybody else.. "Don't do it!"

I think that with the extra aluminum flashing going in there will be no structural issue. I am sealing the inside and outside seams especially well, so leaks should be at a minimum.

Someone has to try. May as well be me.
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Old 02-28-2008, 03:15 PM   #12
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Three points to consider:

1) Removing the interior aluminum and replacing it with melamine coated fiberboard compromises the structural integrity of your trailer. Adding the aluminum strips does not replace the shear value of the aluminum skins.
2) Removing the interior aluminum skins is effectively discarding the future "sellability" of your trailer. Nobody will want to purchase it if it's integrety is compromised and there are no original patterns for panel replacement.
3) Adding fiberboard over the aluminum panels will add significant weight. Especially taking into account you are also proposing laminate flooring. Again, may not effect you...but it will a future owner.

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Old 02-28-2008, 03:38 PM   #13
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"They all leak" - Rob Baker, www.theVAP.com

Presuming that a thorough sealing of leak sources has been accomplished is pie-in-the-sky unless you take it to a dealer who uses Sealtech.

See:
On the roof again...
They all leak, part 2
Zolatone

InsideOut's post is completely accurate. Burning the ship at the end of the 1958's epic "The Vikings" seems appropriate. Be sure to leave instructions that this should not be sold to anybody who believes they're getting a roadworthy Airstream.
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Old 02-28-2008, 03:44 PM   #14
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What alternative?

Install all new aluminum skin inside?

The old stuff cannot be reused. It was beyond reasonable repair and would not have been remotely attractive.

I just need a viable solution here.

It won't be resold any time in the next 30 years. Lot's of 'no you can't do that' ... but no 'you should do this'...
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