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Old 10-23-2007, 01:46 PM   #1
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Drape bottom rails

My í64 Safari is about to get new drapes, thanks to Tammy. I donít have the originals.
The top rail and gliders are still in place. It appears there was no bottom rail. It used snugger cords that must have passed through pockets or loops on the inside of the drapes then snapped to wall.

Does the installation of a bottom drape rail make the drapes hang
straighter / better? It seems they may fit closer to the wall with bottom rail in addition to top rail.

Does anyone have a source for the bottom railing material and glides?

Has anyone installed bottom drape rail on Ď60s Airstream?

Does bottom rail interfere with dinette or gaucho cushions?

Thanks
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Old 10-23-2007, 01:50 PM   #2
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Bottom rails hold the drapes closer to the curved wall. This can also be achieved with a cord that you tuck the drapes into. Our '64 GlobeTrotter never had a bottom rail...it had the standard pleated drapes like at home.



Yes, they do hang out from the wall abit...but it's not a big deal.

You can get replacement or new aluminum extrusion rails & sliders at Vintage Trailer Supply - the rails are about $18-20 for 6-8' long sections - depending on the extrusion and the sliders are under $10 for 25.

Shari
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:03 PM   #3
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drape length measurements

Thanks Shari,
That looks the same as my í64 Safari side gaucho area, only very nicely redone. Thatís the way Iíd like mine to look, someday soon. Very clean job.

When you made your drapes how long did you make them?

Do they hang to just above the gaucho cushion? How far below the bottom of the actual window? Iíll bet your measurements would be the same as what I need.

I think mine also had a ďshelfĒ riveted to the wall that ran the length of the gaucho at one time. PO mentioned it. Itís no longer there but signs of it are.

Thanks for the help
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:10 PM   #4
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Thanks!

I made the drapes to hang about 1-1/2" below the sill...just long enough to not drag on the back of the gaucho. I know that's not much help - but your rail position and window sizes may vary from mine...they are not all alike and I don't recall my exact length.

We have the shelf behind the gaucho you are talking about - it keeps the back from leaning back too much. It's hinged so it lays flat against the wall when the bed is made out...you can see it here in the "up position":



It's on a piano hinge though so it will lay flat too as you can kinda see here:



That space behind the gaucho back, below the shelf is perfect for stowing pillows and I made a bolster to stow our bedding.



I have lots of pictures that may help you on our "Maxwell" website linked below. a '64 Safari and a '64 GlobeTrotter are very similar...yours is just a couple of feet longer so you have more room!

Shari
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:19 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter1
My í64 Safari is about to get new drapes, thanks to Tammy. I donít have the originals.
The top rail and gliders are still in place. It appears there was no bottom rail. It used snugger cords that must have passed through pockets or loops on the inside of the drapes then snapped to wall.

Does the installation of a bottom drape rail make the drapes hang
straighter / better? It seems they may fit closer to the wall with bottom rail in addition to top rail.

Does anyone have a source for the bottom railing material and glides?

Has anyone installed bottom drape rail on Ď60s Airstream?

Does bottom rail interfere with dinette or gaucho cushions?

Thanks
I used modern drape channel and standoffs while remodeling my 63 Overlander. Using bottom drape rail and the appropriate drape sliders makes the drapes nag quite nice, and against the inner skin. The new sliders work great, one haded opening is entirely possible. The parts are available from Airstream or InlandRV. I have attached some pictures that show the drapes mounted with new style drape rod. I used the curtain tabs with the elastic strip, so the fabric has a slight bit of pre-load on it, making it look well-tailored against the wall. The front window drapes need adjustment, since I mounted the drape rod too low, not allowing the table to release from it's wall mount.
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:22 PM   #6
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Uwe...that's what we are planning on doing with our '56 Safari, it has both the top & bottom rails.

Looks nice!

Shari
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Old 10-23-2007, 02:35 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
Uwe...that's what we are planning on doing with our '56 Safari, it has both the top & bottom rails.

Looks nice!

Shari
Thanks, Shari.
btw. the new style G-and/or T-tabs will work very well on some of the small, extruded vintage drapery rails. I reused abunch of mine, especially the shower curtain one. I used G-tabs on that.
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Old 10-23-2007, 03:00 PM   #8
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I don't have any existing tabs - just the rails. I'm a ways off before I need them - but I was going to buy some of each to figure out which ones work best - then go back and order what I need. I figure I'll need about 200-225 of them...sound about right?

I have about 24 LF of windows, one tab every 3-4" at each top & bottom:

24' x 12" = 288" / 3" = 96 at each top & bottom rail

Shari
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InsideOut
I don't have any existing tabs - just the rails. I'm a ways off before I need them - but I was going to buy some of each to figure out which ones work best - then go back and order what I need. I figure I'll need about 200-225 of them...sound about right?

I have about 24 LF of windows, one tab every 3-4" at each top & bottom:

24' x 12" = 288" / 3" = 96 at each top & bottom rail

Shari
I will have to take look later, trailer's at work, I am home watching the house because of the fires being so close by.
The distance of the tabs depends on the style of drape. I opted for flat panel drapes, to achieve a clean look. When closed, the drapes have the lok of soft waves of fabric over the windows. I did not specify pleats. If you are doing pleats, then 3-4in might suffice. Just clip each one of the pleats. It really depends on the type of fabric, and the style of the finished drape.
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:26 PM   #10
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UWE,
Who made your drapes for you?
They look great.

How did you attach the bottom drape rail channel to the wall? Screws, rivets?
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:29 PM   #11
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Shari,
Thanks, great photos. Ah, I remember now, the Maxwell site. I'll cruise it again.

How does the shelf stay in the up position when raised? What supports it? Do you bonk your head on it at night? That was my PO reason for removing it.
Thanks, Walter
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Old 10-23-2007, 04:51 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter1
UWE,
Who made your drapes for you?
They look great.

How did you attach the bottom drape rail channel to the wall? Screws, rivets?
There's a variety of fasteners, but mostly stainless steel screws and aluminum rivets.
A close friend made my drapes. She's a most excellent seamstress.
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Old 10-23-2007, 05:14 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walter1
How does the shelf stay in the up position when raised? What supports it? Do you bonk your head on it at night?
There are sliding bolt catches on each end...no bonking when the shelf is down.



Shari
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Old 10-23-2007, 06:46 PM   #14
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Curtain Track System Hardware - RECMAR Products Here is a website that sells curtain rails.
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