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Old 07-11-2009, 08:13 AM   #1
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1979 30' Argosy
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Question does this sound crazy

ok so, i want to redo the interior of my argosy with wood veneer (birch/teak). i would like to place it directly ontop of the vinyl interior that is currently there, using the rivet line seam as my trim placement. so far so good( i think), now comes the head scratcher. i would like to remove the front end cab (replacing the existing hide-away shelve) and replacing it with a custom wood shelve above the windows. the problem is...how am i going to remove that "one-piece" moulded front, and what the ---- am i going to find underneath it. and THEN what am i going to lay my veneer back ontop of. some many questions....
ps. silver-dreams i think posted some great pics of his veneer project.
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Old 07-11-2009, 08:24 AM   #2
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Yes...
but i would not let that stop me
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Old 07-11-2009, 08:30 AM   #3
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ok so, i want to redo the interior of my argosy with wood veneer (birch/teak). i would like to place it directly ontop of the vinyl interior that is currently there, using the rivet line seam as my trim placement. so far so good( i think), now comes the head scratcher. i would like to remove the front end cab (replacing the existing hide-away shelve) and replacing it with a custom wood shelve above the windows. the problem is...how am i going to remove that "one-piece" moulded front, and what the ---- am i going to find underneath it. and THEN what am i going to lay my veneer back ontop of. some many questions....
ps. silver-dreams i think posted some great pics of his veneer project.
Leave the headliner in place and fasten the wood to it.

All you will find under the headliner is a few wires and some fiberglass insulation.

No metal ribs or stringers of any kind, will be found, underneath the headliners.

Andy
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Old 07-11-2009, 08:48 AM   #4
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ok so, i want to redo the interior of my argosy with wood veneer (birch/teak). i would like to place it directly ontop of the vinyl interior that is currently there, using the rivet line seam as my trim placement. so far so good( i think), now comes the head scratcher. i would like to remove the front end cab (replacing the existing hide-away shelve) and replacing it with a custom wood shelve above the windows. the problem is...how am i going to remove that "one-piece" moulded front, and what the ---- am i going to find underneath it. and THEN what am i going to lay my veneer back ontop of. some many questions....
ps. silver-dreams i think posted some great pics of his veneer project.
You can also cut out the portion of the headliner that will interfer with smooth lines, if you wish.

Andy
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Old 07-11-2009, 07:31 PM   #5
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thanks andy, asalways i take YOUR advise to heart. i think i will devise a way to put the teak ontop of the stuff. sounds much easier, and i can use the time saved to think up a good way of doing it.
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Old 07-11-2009, 08:15 PM   #6
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thanks andy, asalways i take YOUR advise to heart. i think i will devise a way to put the teak ontop of the stuff. sounds much easier, and i can use the time saved to think up a good way of doing it.
You can fasten the wood to the vinyl-clad walls easy enough.

Make sure the walls are super clean, and not sticky in any way.

You can used a good contact cement that can take some heat, and apply it to the walls and the wood.

Install some pop rivets in a nice neat straight line.

Cover that line of rivets, with some batan strips.

Use some small neat looking PK screws to hold the strips in place.

Andy
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:25 AM   #7
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Cool

andy. the vinyl is pretty sticky right now, any recomendations as to a good product for de-stickyfying it! also, should i follow the present line of rivets, so as to make sure i'm fasteneing things into the rib frames, or does it not matter?
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Old 07-12-2009, 06:42 AM   #8
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andy. the vinyl is pretty sticky right now, any recomendations as to a good product for de-stickyfying it! also, should i follow the present line of rivets, so as to make sure i'm fasteneing things into the rib frames, or does it not matter?
The walls must be chemically clean if you use adhesive.

There are some commercial grade chemicals that do the job. There are several posts stating what others have used.

If you look from the outside, you will notice that the main bows are not evenly spaced. That would throw your rivet line all over the place.

With a clean wall, and a top grade adhesive, riveting into the wall should be adequate.

I would suggest 3/16 inch large head pop rivets, since the baton strips will cover them anyway.

I might be a good idea to have a channel for those rivets in the backside of the baton strips.

Andy
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Old 07-12-2009, 10:54 AM   #9
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thanks again andy, boy you are ON these posts like white on rice.. i look forward to sending you the pics of my on-going and finished project. i'll probably be back with more questions, after i do a good search through the posted threads.
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Old 07-24-2009, 02:19 PM   #10
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Just the info I was looking for! Have an Argosy MH.Want to do the same thing haven't decided on the wood yet.Keep us posted with progress and pics. Where do you plan on getting your wood veneer at?
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Old 08-02-2009, 07:44 AM   #11
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gypsyjo....being looking on the web. most local wood places, like lowes, give look at you cross eyed when you ask for wood veneer. an excellent source is "woodcraft" man oh man, they have some beautiful veneer's in their showroom(online) from cheap to ultra expensive. have you checked out silversuenos blog, i believe it's in the thread "wood veneers anyone". beautiful work, very inspiring. keep me up to date with your project too. good luck!
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Old 08-02-2009, 09:31 PM   #12
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Yes I know what you mean about the crossed eyed look I asked at a Lowes last week and they didn't have a clue what I was talking about .I found a plce online called The Oakwood Veneer Company Gallery.Some of there stuff is really beautiful course some of the stuff I liked said to inquire about pricing scary thank goodness I like some affordablestuff also.I will check out your woodcraft site .Thanks for directions to silversuenos blog I will check it out .Will post pics whn I get something done 100 degrees plus temps slows work way down.I think I am going t replace the fuzzy channel in my windows begore I start the veneer In case I get messy.
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