Check out the pictures at the following link:
(will post a close up tomorrow)
I've made drape for two different vintage trailers (I've been sewing for 45+ years). Some practical tips:
1) I don't line my drapes as I like to wash in machine or by hand. A lined drape really requires dry cleaning so that the two fabrics don't "move" in different directions when washed. If we want blackout properties, we use reflectrix covers. These also double as insulation in the winter & during storage.
2) I use an outdoor rated fabric that has UV resistant properties, such as Sunbrella furniture grade or Robert Allen Outdoor. If you are making drapes, invest in a good fabric - remember, your time & labor will probably be greater than the fabric cost.
3) When sewing, use a good quality thread that is appropriate for the composition & weight of the fabric, i.e don't use cotton thread on an acrylic fabric. As well, find a thread that has UV & anti-rot properties, such as Gutterman upholstery thread.
4) Generally, I leave about 3.5" to 4" between the edge of the curtain & the first pleat at the snap end.
5) The Pleats: I do 1.5" between pleats - One pleat is a "Pinched" pleat of 1.5", next inverted pleat is .75". So, a sequence of 1.5" pinched pleat, space of 1.5", inverted pleat of .75", space of 1.5", 1.5" pinched pleat, space of 1.5", inverted pleat of .75", etc. A picture (which I'll post) shows this best. The nice thing about this type of pleat is that it opens in a neat fashion.
6) Drapery carriers - if the opening in the aluminum drapery track is vertical, i.e. it faces towards you as you look at the window, then you need what is called a "G" carrier. If the opening in the aluminum track is horizontal, i.e. the opening is facing up, then you need a "t" shaped carrier.
When you sew the elastic of the carriers, ensure that the drapes have some tension on them, i.e. the drape fabric should be taut but not overly stretched. Sew the end of the carrier elastic to the drape (I'll see about some pictures on this one.)