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arodriguez60 · 01-04-2009, 06:45 PM

Mr R was rumaging in the garage and found an old Mr Clean magic eraser. Came into the 69 Tradewind we are renovating and spayed Greased Lighting onto a wall and whao, cleaned the walls beautifully. Had been using GL and a Black N Decker srub buster, but this is so much less elbow grease-Mrs. R

Airslide · 01-04-2009, 06:57 PM

I love those things.. i really do think they are magic!

Vinnie

DKDarrow · 01-04-2009, 07:26 PM

Could you please explain the products and method for those of us that are possibly behind in the understanding curve. I really would like to know.......thanks......Dennis

catson4 · 01-04-2009, 09:28 PM

"Greased Lightning" says right there on the bottle, :
DO NOT USE ON ALUMINUM, (plane, anodized or alloy)
Their words.

It is a very good cleaner but being leary of anything that says do not use on aluminum and I will stear clear of it.
I have seen this posted before to the effect that it is a NO NO.
IMHO

lovingtahoe · 01-04-2009, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DKDarrow

Could you please explain the products and method for those of us that are possibly behind in the understanding curve. I really would like to know.......thanks......Dennis

Here is a link to the Mr Clean Eraser: Clean Walls and Erase Set-In Dirt with Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.

You can get them at just about any grocery store and they really do well. You just get them wet and scrub, although I have found that the Trader Jo's Cedar & Sage Cleaner with a scrub brush takes all that stinky gunk off the old vinyl walls efficiently and leaves the trailer smelling nice as well. Then, if you take a damp sponge and wipe on some Future floor wax it gives the sheen back.

arodriguez60 · 01-07-2009, 09:31 AM

I agree, would'nt use on aluminum. Used it on our vinyl walls only and it did great with no adverse side effects. Have used on our 73 Safari for years, again only on the vinyl surface without problems. I will also try the trader joes cleaner as well this weekend.

ronstory · 01-07-2009, 01:21 PM

FWIW, I had good luck using Krud Kutter on the vinyl and it got very clean.

ronstory · 01-07-2009, 01:22 PM

Oh... forgot... you can get Krud Kutter at Ace HW.

catson4 · 01-07-2009, 11:10 PM

Krud Kutter is what I used on my KRUDDY 34 ftr.
The PO had smoked about 14 packs a day. Really do not know how much but there was a layer of nicotine and tar on the walls that when you run a fingernail down them, it left a grove it it.
Krud Kutter was the only cleaner we found that would "cut it"
No pun intended.
But K.K. did the job along with lots of elbow grease and hot water.

JMHO

wahoonc · 01-08-2009, 04:19 AM

Krud Kutter is good and so is Marine Clean from POR-15 I think the Marine Clean actually worked better than the Krud Kutter, but it is not as readily available.

Aaron

Mainstream · 02-17-2009, 03:37 AM

SIMPLE GREEN will melt the dirt and grime off the walls with no effort and it is
biodegradable. Worked like magic on my 78 Ambassador.

Journalist · 02-17-2009, 08:01 AM

Just be careful with a magic eraser on anything with a shiny finish like the bathroom sink or other plastic trim. They are extremely abrasive and clean much the same as fine grit sand paper would. It may take the gunk off, but it will dull the finish pretty quickly too.

Foiled Again · 02-17-2009, 08:21 AM

Simple Green is a BIG no-no on aluminum. Luckily I found out on a very small piece of trim, not an interior panel.

Paula

Distantdrummer · 02-17-2009, 08:35 AM

Paula please further define your Big no-no
That is; What did the Simple Green do to it?

WUZENTME · 02-24-2009, 06:56 PM

The reason they don't recommend using Greased Lightning on aluminum is that it has <2% NaOH{Sodium Hydroxide} or caustic. This produces hydrogen gas when it reacts. Although I think at these concentrations, you haven't got a lot to worry about. Anyone that has ever used beach has smelled worst.

belgiandraft · 03-01-2009, 05:40 PM

After you get those walls clean InlandRv.com states to use Future Floor Wax on the walls to keep them from getting sticky again...it's an Arcrylic Finish so I am thinking it would work...
Happy Camping

Foiled Again · 05-15-2009, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Distantdrummer

Paula please further define your Big no-no
That is; What did the Simple Green do to it?

It puts a permanent haze on it - like frosted glass vs. clear. Just eats the finish. I'm not even going to try it on anything with plasticoat which might protect the aluminum, but on the bare stuff, one squirt - game over. I've tried polishing that piece with a dremel and a cotton pad. No avail. Next time I'm In Jackson Center I'll replace the trim.

I've found that the big bunch of blue microfiber shop towels are fast becoming my best household helpers. They absorb a huge amount of water from spills, they wring out very dry - but you've got to do a lot of wringing, they aren't abrasive to exterior aluminum like a brush might be, and they take off that shadow layer of crud that a touchless car wash leaves behind. They are quite effective even without any detergent. I use them for everything inside. Microfiber cloths are great with Windex or ammonia on glass (watch out for the ammonia on aluminum and on plastics refrain from using both). My "floor mop" is a microfiber towel and my right foot.

The things absorb so much water that I sewed three together for peronal use. When I get out of the shower I turban my hair with this contraption and cut my blow drying time by 2/3. Then it hit me, this would work to wash the top of the Airstream! (Then reality hit again and I remembered I can pay someone else to do that.) Kitchen counters, surface wipedowns, whatever. I like it when one tool has many uses!

However when I clean the plastic toilet - I use a small amount of dish detergent and a paper towel (no rubber glove - be honest, do you wear one when you wipe your butt? If not, Hmmmm... the difference in eeuwee factor is?).

I washed "Queen Mary" my truck yesterday afternoon. Got a big bucket (recycled cat litter bucket) filled it with warm water and took about a dozen shop towels outside. Soak one towel, slop down the hood.. no pressure, just let the wet towel do it's thing, wring towel out over hood, repeat with a clean towel if really really dirty, wet and wring a clean towel, and lightly wipe down hood, rewet towel and proceed to next section. Stop when truck is clean or all towels are dirty. Take towels to laundry and wash. Finish truck the next day if you didn't get the whole thing done with a dozen towels. For Bugs, wet a towel in a mild detergent solution and drape over the affected area - ignore for 10 minutes, then try washing as usual. For tar, etc. try WD 40 or go hang out at the auto shop and ask for help from that cute 60 something manager.

djs66 · 05-15-2009, 04:06 PM

Be careful using Krud Kutter on woodwork. It will remove the finish, which (I think) is a lacquer. Since the finish in our 1966 GTrotter is marked up this is an advantage for me. I am recoating the wood with a Minwax wipe-on stain. (That will be all the woodwork finishing I will do this year. If I like the results, I'll varnish it all next year. Got to ration this renovation stuff or we will never get out of the driveway.) but if you want to preserve the finish you have, be warned!