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07-26-2013, 12:12 PM
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#1
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Attaching images to ABS plastic
Hello folks.Wife and I are thinking about afixing images from magazines and newspapers to our front end cap on our airstream trailer.It has gotten old and yellowed,also has a couple cracks. Does anyone have ideas how we would go about doing this.We would like a satin finish when done with it.Wife said mod podge if I am pronouncing that right.
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Tom C.
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07-26-2013, 12:48 PM
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#2
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Moderator Emeritus
1964 26' Overlander
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
Anna
, Illinois
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 5,705
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Attaching images to ABS plastic
Greetings Tom C.!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Okiegent
Hello folks.Wife and I are thinking about afixing images from magazines and newspapers to our front end cap on our airstream trailer.It has gotten old and yellowed,also has a couple cracks. Does anyone have ideas how we would go about doing this.We would like a satin finish when done with it.Wife said mod podge if I am pronouncing that right.
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I am not certain about the properties of today's mod podge, but the product that I remember from the 1970s had a tendency to yellow and crack when exposed to protracted periods of high heat such as when a trailer might be stored during the hot summer months. I don't know whether coating the final product with a matte finish polyurethane (be sure that the polyurethane is non-yellowing) would reduce the likelihood of cracking or crazing.
I think that your idea would produce a wonderful atmosphere of travel and adventure!
Good luck with your project!
Kevin
P.S.: You may need to lightly scuff the ABS plastic with very fine sandpaper prior to applying your decorative finish.
__________________
Kevin D. Allen
WBCCI (Lifetime Member)/VAC #7864
AIR #827
1964 Overlander International
1978 Argosy Minuet 6.0 Metre
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07-26-2013, 12:58 PM
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#3
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Moderator
2017 26' Flying Cloud
Alamo Heights
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,493
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"mod podge" seems to be a line of decoupage products with a really, really poor website. It's hard to find any info on what sorts of surfaces it's designed to work with, but the fact that most of them say "cleans up with water and soap" suggests that it's not likely to be harmful to the plastic.
Another thing to consider for sprucing up the endcap (unless you are just specifically looking to cover it up with decoupage) is to fill the cracks with an appropriate epoxy (perhaps with a layer or two of fiberglass cloth behind it for strength) and then to use a paint designed for plastic such as Krylon Fusion.
I'd recommend doing the epoxy/fiberglass fix before doing the decoupage anyway, since the cracks could continue to grow.
__________________
— David
Zero Gravitas — 2017 Flying Cloud 26U | WBCCI# 15566
He has all of the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire. — Sir Winston Churchill
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07-26-2013, 05:24 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville
, New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 3,116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX
I'd recommend doing the epoxy/fiberglass fix before doing the decoupage anyway, since the cracks could continue to grow.
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This is really good advice. Another piece of advise would be to also paint it with Krylon Fusion before your "mod podge" at least their primer, the "mod podge" may stick better to the paint then just the plastic.
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07-28-2013, 07:10 AM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Thanks for your comment Kevin.
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Tom C.
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07-28-2013, 07:25 AM
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#6
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Decupodge
Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX
"mod podge" seems to be a line of decoupage products with a really, really poor website. It's hard to find any info on what sorts of surfaces it's designed to work with, but the fact that most of them say "cleans up with water and soap" suggests that it's not likely to be harmful to the plastic.
Another thing to consider for sprucing up the endcap (unless you are just specifically looking to cover it up with decoupage) is to fill the cracks with an appropriate epoxy (perhaps with a layer or two of fiberglass cloth behind it for strength) and then to use a paint designed for plastic such as Krylon Fusion.
I'd recommend doing the epoxy/fiberglass fix before doing the decoupage anyway, since the cracks could continue to grow.
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I have heard of that method before.I did some canoeing before kayaks down some fairly rough water.I always kept fiberglass and epoxy around. Thank you for the reminder though
I am still serching for other ideas and advice before procedding with this project.My hope is that someone will come aslong thats tried it before.Wife and I cut out quite a few cowboy and western images the other night and taped them up there.We had the kids over and they gave their approval.That was somewhat encourging.
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Tom C.
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07-28-2013, 07:32 AM
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#7
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Thanks Wazbro. I will do that good advice. I intend to go out and take a photo of it today.I will post it so you folks can get the idea of what I am trying for.
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Tom C.
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07-28-2013, 10:14 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1964 26' Overlander
1968 30' Sovereign
Vintage Kin Owner
somewhere
, Tennessee
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 211
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Use wallpaper paste to attach the pics to the endcaps and then use a clear polyurethane to coat and seal the images or if you want to tape it all up and spray you could use an automotive clear coat and seal it.
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07-28-2013, 01:00 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Youngstown
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 133
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I used mod podge to make a camp box. It went down over wood tho. Easy to do. Put mod podge (which is nothing more than glue) down first. Lay picture and brush glue over top. Can just keep adding layers. Only advice is to rub picture down good getting all the air bubbles out. Let dry well between coats. I did polyurethane coats over all once completed.
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07-29-2013, 11:55 AM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splinter
I used mod podge to make a camp box. It went down over wood tho. Easy to do. Put mod podge (which is nothing more than glue) down first. Lay picture and brush glue over top. Can just keep adding layers. Only advice is to rub picture down good getting all the air bubbles out. Let dry well between coats. I did polyurethane coats over all once completed.
Attachment 191930
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Hey really nice splinter. I like that.
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Tom C.
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07-29-2013, 12:21 PM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Photo's of End Cap
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Tom C.
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07-29-2013, 12:23 PM
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#12
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Images
Quote:
Originally Posted by Splinter
I used mod podge to make a camp box. It went down over wood tho. Easy to do. Put mod podge (which is nothing more than glue) down first. Lay picture and brush glue over top. Can just keep adding layers. Only advice is to rub picture down good getting all the air bubbles out. Let dry well between coats. I did polyurethane coats over all once completed.
Attachment 191930
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Where did you get your images splinter?
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Tom C.
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07-29-2013, 12:27 PM
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#13
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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Wallpaper glue
Quote:
Originally Posted by panheaddale
Use wallpaper paste to attach the pics to the endcaps and then use a clear polyurethane to coat and seal the images or if you want to tape it all up and spray you could use an automotive clear coat and seal it.
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Would you mind sharing some more of your method for wallpaper glue?I would never had thought about using that.Not sure it would stick to the ABS.
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Tom C.
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07-29-2013, 01:10 PM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Youngstown
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 133
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Okiegent - Some of the pictures are from actual old magazines I had been collecting but a lot are from things I didn't want to ruin so they are off a copy machine. Once you glue and put coats of poly on top you can't tell the difference. You can also make the size you want. You can also print images from the internet that you could never obtain otherwise. I did same technique to serving trays, storage boxes, pretty much anything.
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07-29-2013, 01:32 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Youngstown
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 133
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This was my first attempt. You can see where it bubbled up. Still use it tho.
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07-29-2013, 01:36 PM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
Vintage Kin Owner
Youngstown
, Ohio
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 133
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It got better as I went along. Learned a trick. If you get bubbles when putting second coats on take an xacto knife and make little cuts in picture to let air out. It's easy. Go for it. Worse part was finding enough pictures. Good luck.
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08-20-2013, 08:08 AM
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#17
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janeinthemtns
1985 31' Excella
near Chama
, New Mexico
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 163
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There's a big stack of Life Magazines from the 50's upstairs in the old adobe ranch house where I live. I'd like to do this with a few images of those ladies in the fancy aprons advertising the kitchen appliances for my AS kitchen. So different than anything that happens around here!
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09-02-2013, 10:40 AM
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#18
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4 Rivet Member
1983 31' Excella
Choctaw
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 296
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modpodge
Sounds like a great idea Jane.Its always exciting to start a new project and improve our trailers.we hope haha.Sorry about the slow reply I really have had my hands full lately.
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Tom C.
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09-02-2013, 08:29 PM
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#19
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,060
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A trick I saw at U of Minn used the acrylic painting Gloss Gel product (Gesso is opaque) where one if can get a coat dried on an object you can do a transfer of a picture to it...
The ceramic coating on old magazines like National Geographic makes it work best, they put a fine clay over the paper pulp to make the page ultra-smooth and accept inks that plain paper can't.
The way I saw was putting a fresh thin coat over the dried 1st coat and then pressing on the magazine page and letting it dry, then c a r e f u l l y rubbing away the paper pulp and most of the ceramic glaze to leave only the inked photo.
It's surprising that some of these can transfer a great image and some not-so-well, a lot of experimentation is required. Perhaps the magazine cover images work best as they are the richest in inks.
A quick scan shows many google hits, here is one: Transferring Printed Images into Artwork
I think the extra step of a first coat makes sure there is enough of the medium there that the image gets better bonded so a little careless rubbing or too-long wet time won't ruin it as easily.
Working with a curved surface may make it extra difficult, this process alreay has enough antique 'patinia' so the creases or pleat drop-outs may make some really unexpected results...
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The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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09-05-2013, 04:31 PM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,060
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Oh - and since its acrylic artists supply it is completely reversible...
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The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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