I've got minor delamination in several places. I found several web sites that provide good information on how to fix these minor areas. What I have a problem with is there is one panel near the door that has about 1/3rd of it completely delaminted. I haven't been able to find any good information on how to repair it. The wood still looks good and the top layer is all there (though split in many places) to re-glue, but how to do it and have a clean surface to sand and stain later?
Perhaps glue and then clamp will work but what do I use to clamp both sides and how do I make sure the clamping material doesn't adhere to the wood, etc.? The grain of the orginal wood looks like it might be difficult to match. Is that true? Are there good replacement products out there?
Any thoughts would be helpful.
Flash
I have clamped and glued small areas of delamination successfully. For a large area, it might be better to remove the panel and stain a new piece to match.
Welcome to the forum! There's a very active group of airstreamers in the NW, with a number of Caravels among us!
Sure is a beautiful trailor and practical too. I've been restoring it bit by bit all winter. Got the electrical, gas and plumbing done. Now I'm on to the little nagging details.
If your delamination is at the bottom of the panel, it more than likely means the veneer sucked up a bunch of water. A bunch of water will swell all layers of the plywood.
While a repair is possible, keep in mind that, after smushing the swelled wood flat, it will not look as good as it did the day it left the factory.
Flash, Check out a good local lumber yard for 1/4" Oak plywood. I've found some very nice oak at Shur-Way Lumber here in Vancouver that is nearly a perfect match for the original material. If your original is the natural color with lacquer finish, you won't even have to stain the new material, just a couple coats of semi-gloss varnish will match nicely. If you're intent on re-gluing the old stuff, use saran-wrap between the plywood and the clamping fixture. Ordinary white wood glue works fine. You can either scrape or sand the excess glue off before varnishing. Darol
get a sheet of plexiglass and a chunk of plywood to apply even pressure. The glue will not stick to the plexi. If the plywood is swollen, forget it it won't go back down. 1/4" plywood is easy to come by at a good lumber yard or plywood distributor if the veneer wont go back. You could also find a guy that does Airstream interiors to build you a new interior in any wood of your choice...
Based on the input. I am going to remove the single bad panel (have to do so even, if I try to save it) and look for a replacement at the local lumber yards. If I find a matching grain, that will save me tons of time.
Thanks all!
Flash
the thickness of most plywood is in millimeters. Here in the states we often forget that the rest of the world uses a measuring system based on a set length not a fraction. Very little plywood is manufactured (like everything else) in this country anymore. Most plywood is manufactured in Canada (soon to be taken over by China) and they use the metric system (China uses the metric system too). So when you ask for 1/4" it is really 5 mm you are getting. The guy selling it to you may say it is 1/4" but it usually is not. Next time you are at the orange box take notice of the sizes, why is it 23/32"? Because if I told you it was 18-mm you would have no idea what that means. Making the oak plywood match should not be too hard, the grain does not vary too much from tree to tree. You probably need red oak which is most commonly used. If your oak is the color of mine, Olympic light walnut stain is almost a perfect match. Don't let is set too long though or it may get too dark. Good luck with it...
on my 69 caravel i replaced much as was too holed from screws and nails to save wax paper is your best bet for non stick glue joints, is cheap and works for lots of stuff (basic essential in any wood project).
my interior was your basic mahogany= luan with oak trim. i sanded with 400 and a damp towel (to raise the hairs) and stained to match.can't tell it's been touched.
If your de-lamination is at the bottom of the panel, it more than likely means the veneer sucked up a bunch of water.
Keep this in mind when you apply the finish to your new piece... especially if you have carpet. If no sealed, the unfinished end grain of the plywood will suck up any dampness that it can find...even if you don't have leaks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62overlander
Most plywood is manufactured in Canada (soon to be taken over by China)
Are you saying our Canadian friends should be learning to speak Chinese?
I see my error... I had intended to say that soon all the plywood will be made in China, not that Canada will be taken over by China. One never knows, Canada is beautiful and has many natural resources, if China was looking to take over, Canada would not be a bad choice.
I see my error... I had intended to say that soon all the plywood will be made in China, not that Canada will be taken over by China. One never knows, Canada is beautiful and has many natural resources, if China was looking to take over, Canada would not be a bad choice.
Whew!!! that was close... If China is going to make all the plywood is it all going to be weak and green like all the Chinese cardboard?
Quick Links
65 Caravel 0riginal oak paneling delaminting
Linear Mode
