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Old 10-30-2006, 03:49 PM   #1
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan

 
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Profile:  2006 30' Safari
Fayetteville , Georgia
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Today's the day for generator questions

I saw this ad for Big Lots. Now I know this thing would sound like a lawn mower and make you real popular every time you cranked it up out in the middle of some pristine BLM paradise, but I was thinking about getting one for the fridge and freezer at home when the electricity got knocked out by a thunderstorm or ice storm. Could you run two in parallel to have the electric stove? (could always use the natural gas grill to cook with) Could you run three in parallel and have the furnace in winter or central a/c in the summer?
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Old 10-30-2006, 04:19 PM   #2
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The unit you have shown is a 1000 watt generator. It can deliver a little over 8 amps at 120 volts. 8 amps might be enough for a fridge or a freezer, but not both. As far as running a stove with 2, I doubt that you could run 2 of these together, but if you could (like the hondas) you would have 120 volts and about 16 amps of current. A stove requires 240 volts (has to do with phases) and you will not get if from this unit. I have a 1000 Watt (honda) generator for my trailer and it charges the battery and runs the lights, but not much more. It can not run a microwave, an Air Conditioner or my wife's hair dryer on high.
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Old 10-30-2006, 09:51 PM   #3
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Hi, 1000 watts doesn't do much. Ten 100 watt bulbs? It could keep you out of the dark! When I think about a 1000 watt generator, first thing comes to mind is, most hair dryers are 1500 watts. 4Kw to run an RV and guessing 10Kw to run a house? These are my personal thoughts and why I have not yet purchased a portable generator yet; But I do plan on buying one someday after much more thought.

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Old 10-31-2006, 07:47 AM   #4
Tom, the Uber Disney Fan

 
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I figured for $150 it couldn't do much, but I thought it might keep the meat from spoiling in the fridge and freezer maybe. Sounds like it would take a separate one for each dedicated to a single purpose. I didn't think about the stove taking 240 volts. Well, I guess I'd better stock up on ice for the ice chest and keep the door to the freezer closed when the power goes out and used the Airstream's fridge for the items that will fit as a back-up.

I wonder what those whole house propane generators that are advertised at Home Depot cost?
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:40 AM   #5
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Keep in mind that any "construction grade" generator will not have electronic voltage stabilization. The quality of the power is very poor and noted for killing electronics like, a/c, computers and likely refridgerators.
Save your money and invest in ice....
Also the noise from those sets will make you persona non grata at any place you choose to run one for any length of time for sure.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:46 AM   #6
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We have a 5000 watt standard type generator for storms. It can run a few things when the power is out, but the noise is almost unbearable, even from inside the house. We plan to get two Honda EU2000i's for the Airstream and use them for storm duty also.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:44 AM   #7
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Been there - Done that

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnie's Mate
I wonder what those whole house propane generators that are advertised at Home Depot cost?
Had one installed 20 days prior to Katrina. Lets just say Tina was a little surprised at the cost and I got an ear full - BUT after the storm hit - I had plenty of praise. BTW - I was in Japan when the storm hit - kept calling my house and getting the answering machine, at least I knew I had a house. 14kw is what I got - PROPANE powered, natural gas was shut off by the utilities, gas was almost impossible to get. I had a commercial generator made by Baldor installed - more of a continous use generator than the GENERACs they sell at HD. Read the specs carefully. Mine is hospital certified emergency power supply.

Buy what you need , know what you buy.
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Old 10-31-2006, 10:04 AM   #8
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We are contemplating moving to central Florida in a couple of years and my wife thinks she wants a whole house generator. The newer neighborhoods we have looked at all seem to be total electric. I know the heating requirements will be a lot less than hear in Atlanta, but I would still like gas for heating, hot water, and cooking. Propane may be our only option and, Michael, I may get some advise on generators from you when we move.
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Old 10-31-2006, 11:23 AM   #9
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I bought a Troy-Bilt at Lowes, paid $890 for it. 7500 watts with 13500 watts surge. I had the local electrician add a box to the house so I can separate the house from the grid (don't want to hurt the Entergy guys while the work to restore power). I made a checklist for us. I can run the whole house (except the heat pump) and selectively use the CB's to load share. I keep 60 gallons of stabilized fuel on hand. Works for us. Just fo yoiur research and buy what fits your needs.
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:03 PM   #10
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It's funny, anything that heats is a generator killer - what I mean is you really have to buy a BIG one to supply the power requirements. Cooling - fridge and AC - no problem...... Electric hot water heaters, electric heat, ovens and stoves are real big power hogs. To have a generator to supply power to these appliances is asking allot. I agree - I want to switch to propane hot water heaters and cook top in the kitchen, for allot of reasons and the added benifit of having use in a natural disaster situation.
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Old 10-31-2006, 08:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clancy_boy
It's funny, anything that heats is a generator killer - what I mean is you really have to buy a BIG one to supply the power requirements. Cooling - fridge and AC - no problem...... Electric hot water heaters, electric heat, ovens and stoves are real big power hogs. To have a generator to supply power to these appliances is asking allot. I agree - I want to switch to propane hot water heaters and cook top in the kitchen, for allot of reasons and the added benifit of having use in a natural disaster situation.
Appliances such as heaters, stoves, etc are inductive loads and will demand power according to their ratings; 1500 watt blow dryer requires 1500 watts. An air conditioner, refrigerator that draws 15 amps is a reactive load (motor) that while running consumes 15 amps, but upon each start cycle may require up to 3 times that power for the inrush current. I purchased the Yamaha 2400faithfully believing their advertising claims that it would operate a 13500 BTU air conditioner. I sold it after 2 hours and 20 minutes run time and have already purchased the Honda parallel kit in preparation for buying 2 Honda 2000's. I think the Yamaha 3000 would also be a good choice if you can handle the weight (150#) but I would spend the extra $ and get it with the boost feature. Lots of posts on generator options, choices, pro's/con's. Read them all to make an informed decision. Unfortunatley I didn't heed the expert advice provided on the forum.
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Old 11-01-2006, 05:58 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by peegreen
Appliances such as heaters, stoves, etc are inductive loads and will demand power according to their ratings
Actually, they are resistive loads, and resistive loads do that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by peegreen
An air conditioner, refrigerator that draws 15 amps is a reactive load (motor) that while running consumes 15 amps, but upon each start cycle may require up to 3 times that power for the inrush current.
There are two kinds of reactive loads, inductive loads and capacitive loads. Motors are mostly inductive loads, but may have some capacitance.
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Old 11-01-2006, 12:49 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clancy_boy
It's funny, anything that heats is a generator killer - what I mean is you really have to buy a BIG one to supply the power requirements. Cooling - fridge and AC - no problem...... Electric hot water heaters, electric heat, ovens and stoves are real big power hogs. To have a generator to supply power to these appliances is asking allot. I agree - I want to switch to propane hot water heaters and cook top in the kitchen, for allot of reasons and the added benifit of having use in a natural disaster situation.
Hi, I agree with you on what you say are power hogs. But I use my own terminolgy on those type items. I call them "Calibrated Shorts".

Bob
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Old 10-31-2006, 04:27 PM   #14
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Found this link for selecting a home generator. I was surprised a refrigerator would take a minium 2500W unit but I forgot the infamous startup requirements for a compressor. The Yamaha EF2400is is starting to look more and more like the right answer. Better get that letter off to Santa ASAP

-Bernie
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