TOOLS of Boondocking / Rockdocking

[Ray Eklund]

Tools. When you need one... you do not have it handy when needed.

My first two years with the 2006 Safari required tools and screws.

Cabinet doors coming loose or falling off. Short screws falling out and needing to be replaced with a larger diameter screw to keep tight. Linoleum shrinking and needing flat headed tacks to keep the ends from curling up. Plumbing coming loose. Faucets coming loose or needing adjustments. ... and just preventive tools in the event of something else needs attention.

One solution was getting the "tool set" that had metric and US size sockets, straight and philips head screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, pliers, adjustable "monkey" wrench, hex head wrenches of the most frequently needed sizes. The better the quality of the set, the less likely the sockets will split or the ratchet will internally break. Hammer.

For removing tire and wheel, a breaker bar and socket with a short extension to make the process easier.

Now that the 2006 is about 8 years older... I carry several complete sets of inner and outer wheel bearings and container of high quality bearing grease. Just in case... So far all I have needed to do is wipe and grease the bearings and adjust the slack out of the bearings while tightening them back onto the axle. Equipment to remove the pressed bearings and seals as well as something to press them back into the drum.

Now that I am more comfortable that the need for TOO many tools has been relaxed. I left the collapsing tubed ladder the last two trips... then needed it to inspect the A/C on the roof when it quit, while in Las Vegas this month. I started carrying the ladder when the open vent cover blew off while in the West Wendover, Nevada parking lot... No wind when we went into the Casino and no wind when we found parts of plastic in the parking lot! So we put the vent covers on and took care of that happening again!

I understand that many people are not mechanically inclined to do any repairs or "fixes" while on the road. Well... it might be worth reconsidering at least the bare essentials for minor repairs. Those of us who worked on automobiles when you could actually "work on them" learned that what will go wrong, will. Even if you do not camp in remote areas, having an electrical hand held screw driver with various bits and drilling bits is a great idea to have along.

This subject is really an "open conversation" of discovering what tools did you need and now carry along on ALL of your travel adventures in your Airstream or other brand of trailer. Sometimes a "hack saw" or a foot of bailing wire is all it took to make a temporary repair to get back onto the road for a repair.

Sometimes just ONE fuse will save yourself from major discomfort! So, not to make this first post a monograph of my experiences, I want to learn from those who travel much differently than we do... off the paved roads.

WHAT tool or tools have you found to be indispensable?

[polarlyse]

Like Ray I like to think I'm prepared. A good boy scout so to speak. I have a special tool box that contains just "stuff" I put together for electrical repairs. Wire strippers, extra wire, tape, screw drivers, butt connectors, shrink tubing among other things. I have a piece of 7 wire cable and a spare 7 wire plug. Just in case. OH, wire zip-ties. Don't leave home without them and duct tape. I could go on and on but you get the idea.

See ya on the road sometime. Maybe you'll have just what I need.

[Jammer]

I have started carrying a fairly extensive recovery kit. Over 100 feet of rope and chain and a come-a-long, plus a folding shovel and axe.

[mojo]

In addition to stuff described above, I carry some loppers for pruning that one errant branch that keeps me from sliding into a spot without a long scratch on the trailer.

[Bob4x4]

It's always been my experience(with a few notable exceptions)when you go prepared nothing goes wrong.The pre-trip prep I do varies between extreme and none depending on the destination and route.A folding suitecase type set of tools makes for quick access and helps to insure nothing gets left behind,A good size tool bag carries the rest of the tools not found in the kit.A hilift jack takes up permanent residence in both trucks and the Jeep,Forgetting to load it one time could be disastrous in some situations.2 spares for the truck for some trips and a portable high quality tire repair kit.Along with a 12 volt 1/2 hp compressor if any serious off roading is on the agenda.Fluids for all the different gear boxes if we plan on playing hard.Since all vehicles these days are drive by wire a good scanner can be a matter of driving home or not if you are far off the beaten path

[Ray Eklund]

Polarlysc mentioned Duct Tape. Bring a roll of good sticky Duct Tape. When our flimsy vent cover blew off in the Casino parking lot, I used duct tape from the inside and sealed the opening. Worked perfect until we could get to Airstream in Reno, Nevada, borrowed a ladder, buy a vent cover and put it back together.

Once we took a chainsaw back to New Mexico to get back to our camping spot, since many small diameter trees were blow downs and you can never count on the Forest Service to do it off the main roads.

Grease for your hitch and ball.

Rubber disposable gloves to keep the grease off of your hands.

Tweezers for stickers, prickly pear needles, thorns, cacti... dogs always need it.

A COMPASS. It just has to work. Check it at home. A must off the grid.

[RickDavis]

I leave the welder and lathe at home. Pretty much everything else resides in the truck

[Airrogant]

Originally Posted by Jammer

...a fairly extensive recovery kit. Over 100 feet of rope and chain and a come-a-long, plus a folding shovel and axe.

Sweet!

I think a big-azz 12 VDC winch would look so cool on an AS trailer even though it might not be very practical. Mounting some nice recovery hooks on the trailer's frame might be more value-added.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by Airrogant

Sweet!

I think a big-azz 12 VDC winch would look so cool on an AS trailer even though it might not be very practical. Mounting some nice recovery hooks on the trailer's frame might be more value-added.

Have had those and have come to the conclusion that, as a practical matter for real-world recovery, enough chain and a good come-a-long is better.

Electric self-recovery winches are expensive, maintenance intensive, big, heavy, require a big, heavy mount. But the main problem is that they aren't versatile, so if you need to pull backwards or to one side you're out of luck. That happens surprisingly often.

In practice, most of the time it's more effective to pull with another vehicle. When there's no one around to help or no way to get another vehicle lined up right, the come-a-long works ok.

[BoldAdventure]

Originally Posted by Jammer

Have had those and have come to the conclusion that, as a practical matter for real-world recovery, enough chain and a good come-a-long is better.

Electric self-recovery winches are expensive, maintenance intensive, big, heavy, require a big, heavy mount. But the main problem is that they aren't versatile, so if you need to pull backwards or to one side you're out of luck. That happens surprisingly often.

In practice, most of the time it's more effective to pull with another vehicle. When there's no one around to help or no way to get another vehicle lined up right, the come-a-long works ok.

What??? NO, we've been overlanding for awhile now, and I can tell you, winches are not that heavy, and on a mount with front and rear receiver + a pulley and tree strap you can pull sides ways. Done it plenty of times. Synetic line is easy to maintain and light weight. Winch will always bet your chain, other vehicle and come-a-long all day long.

Now if you're winch is mounted in a bumper, than yes all some of your statement is true. Won't be terribly effective pulling in reverse. Steel bumpers also add A LOT of weight to a vehicle.

Winch in a receiver mount is always the best bet, but there are limitations (strength wise)

Chain though is pretty heavy. And you'll still need a tree strap. And have fun cranking that thing. Hope you don't need to get out of a jam in a hurry.

Pulling with another vehicle is not always the best way either. It can be dangerous, the other vehicle will need proper recovery points to hook too, you'll need room to pull, the proper traction conditions and proper amount of straps/chain. Did I mention it can be dangerous. Seen to many dummies destroy their vehicles, the trail and property from hooking up a chain and just revving the engine.

=============

As I mentioned above, I've been into expedition style overlanding for a couple years. But now we are moving on to become full-time Airstreamers. I've got a tool box setup that I've used with our old rig. Over time you figure out which tools you use the most on your vehicle, and I suspect Airstream.

I also have a number of specialty tools, but I've come to recognize the ones I need on a road trip and the ones I can leave at home.

For example, Tie Rod puller, you'd be amazed how often you break them offroading, so I carry one with me.

[John&Vicki]

Great post on boondocking:

Finding Magical RV Boondocking | Technomadia

Check out their app. Seems boondocking opportunities are vast!

Cheers,
John

[PharmGeek]

I've began researching my region - Alabama

It's tricky so far - hard to know if my 30 foot rig will have access to some places I find with bits of details on the net - have not tried pay apps yet - will take some scouting I suspect


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[Ray Eklund]

PharmGeek has one advantage when looking for a boondocking spot.

The part of the 30' trailer BEHIND the axles can hang out/over without a problem, unless there are trees, boulders, structures, poles, posts, picnic table or something that would prevent you from doing so. Finding a flat spot at some sites is tough. With my wife spotting, I can park the trailer in great spaces that appear to have little extra room to spare yet everything fits nicely without injury to the trailer.

Boondocking in Idaho is an example. If you can find a camping spot in the back country that does not need massive amounts of leveling... you have done well. It takes some work to find even a hunter's camp site that looks flat from a distance and is out of level by FEET!

Northwest Montana... I have had to camp on mine tailings in the back country. If a flat area was found... the brush and trees prevented us from using the space! The lower elevation and moisture makes it green and the vegetation thick. The commercial campgrounds are better, but dark from tall trees. Lake side camping is usually commercial or State operated but worth it. Flathead Lake on the west side has wonderful State camp sites. It deteriorates after that.

[Ray Eklund]

Today I am giving up the foot locker of tools and hardware that I have hauled every time we went camping. It was after the first year that we were able to make our 2006 23 foot Safari on and off the road...worthy. So I have carried tools to repair anything... and am reducing about 80 pounds... today.

But... one item I will carry. Actually a spare part that I needed on our first trip. Our Zip Dee awning on one side was very difficult to slide the aluminum internal rod out. It was like that when we purchased the trailer, new. The sales people said it would loosen up in time.

Loosen up? It had actually been bent. Trying to figure it out on our first outing was easy. I pulled the rod out and, sure enough, it was bent. I put it out onto a flat surface, took a piece of 2x4 lumber, and hammered it as flat as possible. It worked, Zip Dee actually sent a replacement rod at no charge when I inquired about the bent rod. The "Contour Claw Bar" is the hook on the end that connects the two supports. On the original this had a cracked casting and came apart when setting up for a later trip. I found some hardware to hold it together, but ordered an extra... just in case I ever needed another.

I still have it and it is the same as the 2014 Zip Dee Claw Bar. The claw comes with a pin and instructions. It is all one piece. I would recommend having a loose one, just in case. Even if you never need it, or think you will not. Because if you do need it... you are up a creek without a paddle.

I have discovered over many years of being prepared. If you DO have a spare... you will never need one. When you DO NEED a part... it is needed the first trip you decided it was not necessary.

[Ray Eklund]

We "suffered" with the 2006 23 foot Safari with the rear bed. The smaller size was not the problem. It was the mattress that was custom fitted to the outside curve of the Airstream interior and you had to be a gymnast to... get out of bed.

Costco of all places solved our problem, as I would believe today, that many mattress companies also offer: Memory Foam Mattress Topper. For the 23' Safari we bought a Queen size on sale from Costco for $100. It might be six inches thick. Being a Queen Size, it was cut down with a sharp box cutter to fit, using the original mattress as the template.

At first, we laid the memory foam on top of the original mattress. It was OK, but by removing the factory mattress, storing it for possible future need. Using the memory foam mattress, which starts out stiff when cold, eventually warms up to your body temperature and is absolutely wonderful. Firm without having the center dipped where the foot and arm sleeping war(s) begin for peaceful sharing. If there was one change to your 2006 Airstream... this is the best single tip for those of you who "understand" what I am saying about the original mattress.

When we sold the 2006, we "tossed in" the original mattress as to replace it would probably cost more than I would think. Some people like the old style mattress. There, you saved yourself $100 or more on a memory foam replacement.

The trimmings my wife fitted into a pillow. I have seasonal allergies and those to feathers and wool itching. Memory Foam... nothing. So those of you with allergies... I am the official Allergy Poster Child! No factory odor after using it awhile, after the newness is gone. Great sleeping! No rolling into the groove in the center of the old mattress. If I had one word to express our sentiment of this change... WONDERFUL.

The 2014 International has a memory foam, but not as dense. Wonderful bed! I am sure because the kind we bought at Costco is much heavier... it could not be easily used with the rear bed of the 2014. The lift up bed to access storage easily would have required a larger hydraulic system and heavier plywood to support it all. But the new bed is a great addition to the sleeping constant rolling to the center of the old mattress.

When you buy the memory foam mattress, it is compressed into a tight roll. Cut the sealed plastic wrap and it expands. Let it lay flat for a day and then cut it to shape. You can fit it tight or a bit loose and it will eventually fit the space. Good luck and Happy Sleeping in your 23 footer.

[Ray Eklund]

For those of you who have had too many years of complaining about the original, fitted into the corner, mattress... here is what we used.

Novafoam 3 inch Mattress TOPPER purchased at Costco and the price is up $20. (My original post said maybe SIX INCHES THICK. Nope, 3 inches. Feels like six and you only have to pay for three...)

Full Size $120 that is cut down to fit. The original mattress is larger than a Queen ($99) and smaller than a Full Size ($120).

#861225 is the number on the topper packaging.

This is only 3 inches thick. Put onto the plywood top of the bed frame... it is firm and comfortable. I guess you could buy it, lay it onto any hard flat floor in the house and stretch out.

This is NOT the 14" tall, multiple layered mattress. I do not know if a 4" or 5" exist. It comes with a mattress cover.

[JamuJoe]

Originally Posted by John&Vicki

Great post on boondocking:

Finding Magical RV Boondocking | Technomadia

Check out their app. Seems boondocking opportunities are vast!

Cheers,
John

Interesting blog. As far as an app, I find that Allastays Camp & RV has excellent functionality and information on Public Lands camping as well as all of the other categories. You can use the filter for Public Lands, then switch to satellite view to look beyond the established campgrounds for dispersed camping possibilities. Use your device cache (check their FAQ's) to capture the area of interest before venturing beyond cellphone/internet coverage.

[blkmagikca]

When I got stuck on wet grass at a rally the organizers brought in a farm tractor to haul me into my parking spot. The problem was that my TV did not come with tow hooks, so they wrapped the strap around the middle of my bumper to pull me along. The bumper back was actually all plastic and broke, and the cost of replacing it with an OEM bumper was outrageous. So I looked for something that would provide strength and tow hooks of some kind. What I found also had provision for a winch. . . so that's what I did. I've got a honking big sucker rated at 12,500 lbs. Since then I've never been in a situation that requires its use, but it's a fine form of insurance. Added bonus is that when I edge out into traffic, nobody challenges me. The bumpers (front and back) are made of 3/16" steel plate - no curves, all welded.