I am attaching, and trying to post a copy of a wiring diagram I drew to modify my AS for solar and a better charger/inverter.
For the inverter I am using a Magnum MMS1012 with the remote LCD RC50, for the solar charger, I plan to use the bogart trimetric and SC2030.
I plan to keep AC, Water heater, and microwave on shore power/Generator input, and feed the magnum from the shore power breaker (existing in the trailer). The AC out from the Magnum will feed a new breaker with all the inverted loads to all receptacles in the AS.
I used the wiring diagram in the AS manual and modified it to add my new parts and such. I ordered the AS, its a 2017 FC 23D bunk, so it won't be here until December. I want to get the wiring down now, though, then once it arrives, I will figure out how many batteries (2 or 4, 6V) and location for everything.
Would really appreciate any comments or review of this diagram. Once I get it right, I will post it up. I also plan to document the install for others etc.
I am not sure if I posted this up right, hopefully it will show or be in the attachments.
I am attaching, and trying to post a copy of a wiring diagram I drew to modify my AS for solar and a better charger/inverter.
For the inverter I am using a Magnum MMS1012 with the remote LCD RC50, for the solar charger, I plan to use the bogart trimetric and SC2030.
I plan to keep AC, Water heater, and microwave on shore power/Generator input, and feed the magnum from the shore power breaker (existing in the trailer). The AC out from the Magnum will feed a new breaker with all the inverted loads to all receptacles in the AS.
I used the wiring diagram in the AS manual and modified it to add my new parts and such. I ordered the AS, its a 2017 FC 23D bunk, so it won't be here until December. I want to get the wiring down now, though, then once it arrives, I will figure out how many batteries (2 or 4, 6V) and location for everything.
Would really appreciate any comments or review of this diagram. Once I get it right, I will post it up. I also plan to document the install for others etc.
I am not sure if I posted this up right, hopefully it will show or be in the attachments.
Thanks
Rich
Troutboy,
The first problem I see is that your MMS-1012 inverter/charger is only capable of an 8 amp output. That will not successfully power a 30 amp sub panel for all of your trailer's AC loads, nor does it have the capacity to pass thru 30 amps to that sub panel. You can only properly use the MMS-1012 for 1000 watts of load. Remember that it does have a 15 amp input breaker and 10 amp output breaker located directly in the inverter chassis for limiting both input and output amperages.
Nothing wrong with what you would like to achieve, but you should look to the Magnum MS-2012, as it DOES have the capacity for 30 amp pass-thru and WILL be able to energize a trailer-wide 30 amp sub panel......a far better choice!
Also, I would look to a quality MPPT solar charge controller with an array of the size you have indicated. I would suggest either a Blue Sky 3024-iL with their iPN-PRO remote and integrated battery monitor system, or a Victron Blue Solar 100/50 solar charge controller with their BMV-702 battery monitor, both of which can be updated, programmed and monitored from your smart phone. Simple, efficient and elegant!
Hope this helps!
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
Thanks Lew,
I was thinking about the larger Magnum. If I went that way, could I run the shore power directly through a new 30 amp breaker, then just run the AC out from the larger magnum to the existing breaker in the AS with all the loads etc?
Oh, does the rest of the wiring look decent? Sizes etc, I know the size will depend on distances, so maybe too early to tell.
The one thing around DC I don't get is the grounding, so I worry there. I'm decent with. AC wiring, wired my own house, but no experience with DC
Thx
TB,
It will take a bit of time to completely analyze your schematic. If you would like my comments on all of your wire size, please make a list of both the origin and destination for each cable and PM me.
Also, if you look up the installation manual for a Magnum MS-2012 on their web site, you will find a few diagrams that will give you a better perspective for your AC and Dc connections where the inverter is involved.
I'll be glad to look the list over and comment.
__________________
lewster
Solar Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
Victron Solar Components and Inverters, Zamp Solar Panels, LiFeBlue and Battle Born Lithium Batteries, Lifeline AGM Batteries
Thanks Lew, I think I'll wait until I get the actual trailer so I can see distances etc, and also get a better idea of my loads. I will install a temporary ™-2030 so I can understand usage. Once I have that, I will take you up on your offer.
I'm getting g excited about the new AS, and probably getting ahead of myself.
Thanks so much
Rich
The schematic seems to indicate that your battery disconnect isn't really a battery disconnect. The relay disconnects the load panel from all 12V DC sources, battery, inverter/charger, monitor, solar, but leaves them all connected together. If that is what you intended, great, but it is really a load disconnect, and not all loads, for example, the battery is always connected to the inverter, the monitor, the LP detector, etc. and could be subject to phantom loads while stored.
My Safari 25 was wired that way, my Classic 30 has a true battery disconnect, i.e. it disconnects the battery from everything. Nothing works when the disconnect is engaged and there is no shore power.
I think you may want to add a disconnect between the panels and the charge controller so you can safely work on the wiring. Otherwise you will have to disconnect a live cable from the panels.
Al
__________________
“You cannot reason someone out of a position they have not been reasoned into"
Al, K5TAN and Missy, N4RGO WBCCI 1322
2002 Classic 30 Slideout -S/OS #004
2013 Dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 Megacab Cummins
Ok I get it man. If you've got the $$$ get with it! You won't be disappointed with the Trimetric battery monitor and solar controller, that is a given, proven great product and it doesn't matter where you bought it.
Also be honest with yourself and do the home work we all have on solar controllers and report back if you want to. You have to be honest with yourself and if MPPT makes the most sense to you, then I suggest you go that way.
In edit, I was brain dead and posting my thoughts on another thread. You have that already, duh.
I'm not convinced for my needs, size of system, etc, that MPPT would be worth it. The larger inverter makes sense given the anticipated use, hair dryer, microwave, when the wife comes along. Now she's actually asking about DIRECTV, man...... are we camping or hanging out in a hotel......
On your schematic, you have the rooftop solar and the portable solar plug going to a junction box, before going to the battery. I have a similar set up, but wired the the roof solar and the exterior solar plug to different legs of a Blue Sea marine battery switch. The output from the switch runs to the controller.
I can either select the roof panel ("battery A" on the switch), the exterior portable solar plug ("battery B" on the switch), or combine A+B. I usually leave it in the combined mode. I can also shut off both panels by going to "Off".
I have the SC2030 controller and the Trimetric 2030A monitor, and have been very pleased at how they work. Our AS has a 145W roof panel and a 90W portable, and two 6V Lifeline batteries (220ah).
I'm pretty much going the same route using the MS1012 1000w inverter/charger in conjunctions with an AMSolar 200w roof solar kit. I plan to have the installer isolate the A/C, microwave, fridge 110v, and water heater circuits for shore power only and only have the inverted power going to the 110v receptacles. The MS2012 is quite a bit larger/heavier and more expensive. So are you saying with the MS1012 even on shore power I won't be able to power my A/C, fridge 110v and run the microwave for short periods?
Like the OP I'll run shore power directly to the 30amp panel and run a circuit to the MMS1012. The AC output will go to a separate panel for the 110v receptacles. According to the spec sheet http://www.magnum-dimensions.com/sit...4-0475_web.pdf
The transfer relay capability is 20AAC. Isn't that 20amps, the typical 110v receptacle capacity?
Our power needs are light; laptop charging, phone charging an occasional light appliance. TV runs off 12v
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