SOLAR or GENERATOR? That is the question for Boondockers...

[EarlM]

Originally Posted by BlueMesa

Honda EU7000IS
Awesome. Runs both of my a/c
VERY quiet
About $3800 shipped
250 lbs. has wheels.

May I ask where you got it for $3800

[EarlM]

Originally Posted by EarlM

May I ask where you got it for $3800

Do you run both off of the 30 amp receptacle or use the 30 and a 20 so you 50 amp plug goes in a pigtail

[BlueMesa]

http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....or/p14017.html
Sorry was $3999 with no tax, free shipping and free lift gate service.

As to the power. You run it on 240 mode which means 22.9 amps in each 120v leg. Likely nothing in your AS runs in 240, but the 50 amp plug brings in two 120v legs just like your house. The AS then typically has one a/c plus microwave on one leg and the other a/c and hit water in the other. The last two circuits (split one on each leg), then split up the outlets with one having the 12v converter on it. Hope this helps.

Do a search of "Honda EU7000" in the electrical generator forum (can't remember how to post link). Also in that post is where to get the adapter that goes from your 4 prong 50 amp to the 4 prong outlet on the generator. You'll also see a chart of power output for the generator.

Also the generator is EFI so very easy to start even if you have to use the cord (has electric start).

Good luck.

[PharmGeek]

We like out eu7000 so far - it doubles for home backup as well






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[SeeMore]

A little off topic but I couldn't help noticing the number of comments about 120v TV use. Most of the LED screen models use 12-14v internally and have a converter built into the cabinetry. There are models available that use an external 120ac to 12dc converter cords similar to the recharging cords supplied for smartphones. Those models can be used easily for boondockkng by buying a cigar plug converter cable from a supplier like PowerStream - in-stock fused cigarette lighter cord, 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel connector, with red LED from PowerStream

A specific Samsung model is the UN22F5000: Amazon.com: Samsung UN22F5000 22-Inch 1080p 60Hz Slim LED HDTV (2013 Model): Electronics

The Samsung model mentioned only uses 2.5 amps at maximum draw and usually runs around 1.8-1.9 amps if you don't set the screen on full bright.

[PharmGeek]

That bit about inadequate prewiring (too small gage if I recall) is depressing/annoying


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[rmkrum]

Inadequate prewiring is not surprising. What surprised me was being unable to find the roof end of ours. We gave up and did it right.


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[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by SeeMore

A little off topic but I couldn't help noticing the number of comments about 120v TV use. Most of the LED screen models use 12-14v internally and have a converter built into the cabinetry. There are models available that use an external 120ac to 12dc converter cords similar to the recharging cords supplied for smartphones. Those models can be used easily for boondockkng by buying a cigar plug converter cable from a supplier like PowerStream - in-stock fused cigarette lighter cord, 5.5 x 2.1mm barrel connector, with red LED from PowerStream

A specific Samsung model is the UN22F5000: Amazon.com: Samsung UN22F5000 22-Inch 1080p 60Hz Slim LED HDTV (2013 Model): Electronics

The Samsung model mentioned only uses 2.5 amps at maximum draw and usually runs around 1.8-1.9 amps if you don't set the screen on full bright.

Thanks for the information and links. I have a 22" visio tv powered by 12v that I stumbled across at Sams about 3 years ago. I then went to my "electronics junk drawer" and found a 12v cigarette power cord that just happended to fit.

The Amazon link also shows the very simple and inexpensive mounting bracket that works well and that I have used several times for mounting 22"- 24" led tv's.

I will only add that the Jack antenna also comes with a 12v power supply that works great, so no inverter required to watch a little tv.

Dan

[idroba]

I am going to be bold and say I disagree with lewster about the solar pre wire on SOME of the Airstreams. On my FC 20, the wire is #10 and runs from the front vent to the area where all the battery connections are made, under the front bed. It is adequate for up to 200 watts of panels in my opinion. In fact that is what I have installed on my FC 20, two 100 watt panels. I am glad it was there, it made my installation much easier.

I have a Blue Sky MPPT charge controller and when the batteries are discharged enough to take all the panels can put out, I measure about 11 amps of charge current. The battery charge voltage is in the 13.6 v range so the panels are producing 13.6 x 11 amps = 150 watts. For panels flat (not tilted) in the North West summer that is a very fair ratio of rated vs. actual watt performance. You will never get 200 watts from a 200 watt panel system do to the way they are rated and the losses that always occur.

The 11 amps I measure is not going to cause a significant voltage loss or efficiency drop on the short run of #10 wire involved. The MPPT charge controller, located inside but near the batteries compensates for the voltage drop (panels put out in the 17.5 to 18 volt range to begin with).

Now, if the wire run is very long, and it may be on some Airstreams, there may be higher losses which could be unacceptable. And if you wish more than 200 watts of panels a wiring upgrade certainly would be advisable. But for a reasonable average solar system the pre wire can work just fine.

For what it is worth, I have been working with solar electric systems since 1995 when I put my first 1000 watt system in place at my own home. It has been since moved from Idaho to a friends off grid home in NM, where it still provides all the power for his homestead. Most of the panels are original, and the inverter has been running virtually 24/7/52 since the mid 90's with only one repair. I also do volunteer solar work for the Forest Service and have a number of systems in place which I designed and maintain.

[lewster]

No Problem! We spec all of our systems with 2% voltage drop or LESS. Aside from inadequate wiring, Airstream uses wire runs that are excessive and connect the charge lines to the bus bars rather than directly to the batteries.

We (myself and AM Solar) feel differently and want our installations to capture every drop of voltage and current for maximum efficiency. I see an increasing number of solar charge systems on RVs now that have been supplied by manufacturers. Unfortunately, many are not worth the cost of the panels. Everyone has their tolerances.......ours just happen to be lower than most.

[rmkrum]

My issue with the AS pre-are on my rig was that I could only find the end of the wires near the rely below the bed. We had no clue where the other end was hiding.

Our controller is neatly mounted in a custom hole in the end of the overhead cabinet next to the closet, and the very heavy cable from the AM Solar kit interconnects the roof junction box, controller, and runs to the batteries. We have very little voltage drop and plenty of charge current in good conditions.

It's worth the holes in the roof, IMHO. We sealed it carefully and have had no leaks.


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[TinTin]

The other end of the AS pre-wire will generally be alongside the edge of the front Fantastic Fan opening. It can be a little difficult to find even when you know it's there.

[rmkrum]

Ah, now I know. That would have not been usable given where we put the controller and panel. It worked out better to use the bigger wire and run it in the closet area.

Thanks.


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