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Old 04-06-2011, 10:08 AM   #57
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Ahab, thanks for the reply! Was the sealing a special option? We bought ours from the dealer lot, so we didn't get to pick the options. I just wonder what one does for repairs with all that foam. I know it can be cut, but it seems like quite a mess still. But I'm glad to hear the sealing is not mission impossible or futile!
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Old 04-06-2011, 12:05 PM   #58
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Manistee National Forest

View from our Airstream at our favorite location in the middle of the woods.........
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Old 04-06-2011, 06:18 PM   #59
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Originally Posted by tvoneicken View Post
Ahab, thanks for the reply! Was the sealing a special option? We bought ours from the dealer lot, so we didn't get to pick the options. I just wonder what one does for repairs with all that foam. I know it can be cut, but it seems like quite a mess still. But I'm glad to hear the sealing is not mission impossible or futile!
No, not that I know of. We bought ours off the lot too. After bringing it home I checked underneath for openings as we have lots of critters that like to find new homes. I was surprised to see there were none and you could see where some of the foam dripped out so I assumed the factory did the sealing. The stuff is easily cut or scrapped off so I wouldn't worry about applying it yourself. Our previous TT had dust intrusion and I used a flexible boat caulk to seal floor holes and between cabinet bottoms and side walls. It helped but didn't stop it completely.
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Old 04-07-2011, 01:05 PM   #60
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If you do use the spray foam sealer, be aware that there are two kinds. One of them expands quite a bit and can exert pressure on things. The other one is for use around windows and doors where it won't expand as much and exert enough presssure to push things out of whack. You will probably want to use the door and window foam sealant.
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Old 04-10-2011, 03:45 PM   #61
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View from our Airstream at our favorite location in the middle of the woods.........
vb


Looks heavenly!!!! I got to find me a place like that....
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Old 04-19-2011, 11:33 PM   #62
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Speaking of off-roading: how steep a slope can one pull an AS up? I'm towing a 23FB (6000 lbs) with a 4WD V8 4runner and, as far as I can tell, in the low gears there's enough power to pull the whole thing up a vertical. So the limitation must be tire traction? Or is there something else that fails first? Sometimes when I floor the accelerator when merging onto a highway I fear that I may rip off the trailer tongue! Joke aside, what gives first?
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:21 AM   #63
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Speaking of off-roading: how steep a slope can one pull an AS up? I'm towing a 23FB (6000 lbs) with a 4WD V8 4runner and, as far as I can tell, in the low gears there's enough power to pull the whole thing up a vertical. So the limitation must be tire traction? Or is there something else that fails first? Sometimes when I floor the accelerator when merging onto a highway I fear that I may rip off the trailer tongue! Joke aside, what gives first?
If the trailer tongue doesn't break when you accelerate, it won't break going up a hill - the amount of load is essentially the same.

As the the amount of load: let's assume you have 3500 lbs on the rear wheels, and a coefficient of friction of 1: that means you can exert 3500 lbs combined on both truck and trailer at the limit of wheel traction. If your truck and trailer weigh about the same, this will be evenly split, so you get 1750 lbs horizontal load on the tongue. Nothing to worry about...

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Old 05-20-2011, 01:20 PM   #64
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The dirt road in has a couple low spots, through creek beds, that play havoc with the rear bumper. To keep from dragging I carry two sets of heavy duty, plastic ramps (Auto Zone) and going very slowley, set these back to back, front to front, back to back, on both sides, raising the clearance intill we are out of the dip.
I'm not quite with you on the ramp technique. Will you please explain in more detail?
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:07 PM   #65
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whew, I thought it was just me. I was in a dance step til the dip...but I am also interested in this technique. I got a couple little ditches to get across on our place in CO, too.
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Old 05-20-2011, 03:38 PM   #66
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Build some bridges

If it's your land, build some bridges :-) fun with power tools is always to be looked forward to with great anticipation
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Old 08-31-2011, 03:58 PM   #67
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So in my search of the forums I've found both 2-axles are better and 1-axle is better for traveling on gravel/dirt forest service roads (with a bit of washboard of course). I believe this comes from the fact that there are owners of both that are satisfied with the capabilities of their AS?

Anyone with experience towing both care to weigh in? My tow vehicle is a 1/2 ton Z71 suburban and we're considering either the 19' or the 23' international, but do a substantial amount of our camping down several miles of gravel forest roads...
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:06 PM   #68
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One Axle

Only have experience with one axle AS. But we have found our little 16' CCD to be pretty capable.

We tow with a land rover - and have had to use 4 wheel low on a couple of occasions.

The short length is a big plus. The rear bumper has a pretty decent hang over (good for hills).

Also - the single axle is really maneuverable in tight spots.

So far - we have only had to replace the medicine cabinet (a victim of 1 hour of washboard gravel road down to Chaco Canyon, NM)

Good luck with your choice,
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Old 09-09-2011, 12:34 AM   #69
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We had a Basecamp that we pulled with a Tacoma, and it was very useful in rough terrain... good approach/departure angles and shorter and narrower than the standard A/S.

That said, we sold it and moved up to a 22' International... as we needed more space and creature comforts. If I was going to do more back-roading, I would stick with a 16 foot Bambi, stuff some taller tires under it, and use a shorter wheel-base SUV as a tow vehicle.

I can say now, that 6 feet more trailer makes a big, big difference in tight spots...
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Old 09-09-2011, 07:32 AM   #70
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My FJ Cruise w/17 Sport goes anywhere I like. My "anywhere" though is different from a 20 yr olds anywhere
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