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Troutboy · 05-03-2018, 12:19 AM

Brav, system is working excellent. We boondocked a ton last year. The longest was 5 days. Here in sunny Colorado, batteries never dropped below 80% and were charged back up by noon.

Big draws on power for us have been heater fan and microwave. We use the microwave often and it works flawlessly with the inverter.

I can’t think of anything I would do differently other than get an extra panel for the roof.

The system works so well that I don’t even carry my electric cord and we don’t plug in if we are at a powered site.

Brav · 05-03-2018, 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Troutboy

Brav, system is working excellent. We boondocked a ton last year. The longest was 5 days. Here in sunny Colorado, batteries never dropped below 80% and were charged back up by noon.

Big draws on power for us have been heater fan and microwave. We use the microwave often and it works flawlessly with the inverter.

I can’t think of anything I would do differently other than get an extra panel for the roof.

The system works so well that I don’t even carry my electric cord and we don’t plug in if we are at a powered site.

Great to hear.. I have been going back and forth with doing essentially what you have, or a more simple system with my current PD charger w/Lithium voltages, and 200ah of BattleBorn batteries to start. No fancy BMS, but looks like others have had success with this simple setup. I have 3 x 135W flex panels, which are disintegrating fairly quickly and also will need to be replaced, with either hard panels like you have, or marine-grade Solara semi-flex panels, w 5 year warranty. Call me crazy, but I don't like seeing the square panels on the round roof

Also, they have lengths that happen to maximize my roof space, at 59" x 21.5", and higher voltages (23V+). Can't as easily fit the 100W panels, and those run lower voltages.

Speaking of the heater, which wakes me up everytime it launches, that is my next project before our next big trip.. insulating that thing.

Now I just need to decide if I will place all of my system/batteries under the bed where it is now, or under the lounge where you have..

Again, thanks for taking the time to post all of this.

ghaag · 06-29-2018, 06:38 PM

Wow Troutboy, awesome thread, thank you for taking the time to share! Totally convinced me that I would be in way over my head to tackle this, but that I definitely want this upgrade.
Thanks again,
Greg

uncle_bob · 06-29-2018, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brav

Great to hear.. I have been going back and forth with doing essentially what you have, or a more simple system with my current PD charger w/Lithium voltages, and 200ah of BattleBorn batteries to start. No fancy BMS, but looks like others have had success with this simple setup. I have 3 x 135W flex panels, which are disintegrating fairly quickly and also will need to be replaced, with either hard panels like you have, or marine-grade Solara semi-flex panels, w 5 year warranty. Call me crazy, but I don't like seeing the square panels on the round roof

Also, they have lengths that happen to maximize my roof space, at 59" x 21.5", and higher voltages (23V+). Can't as easily fit the 100W panels, and those run lower voltages.

Speaking of the heater, which wakes me up everytime it launches, that is my next project before our next big trip.. insulating that thing.

Now I just need to decide if I will place all of my system/batteries under the bed where it is now, or under the lounge where you have..

Again, thanks for taking the time to post all of this.

Hi

In another thread, a couple of us pestered the poor Battle Born people to death about charging voltages. After much back and forth / "everything works" sort of talk we got down to the real question - what works best?

Simple answer is to ramp up to about 14.4V and get things charged. after that is done ( like to < 1A per battery ) drop back to something in the 13.4 to 13.7 volt range. The batteries will go to essentially zero current once they settle there. As long as you stay above 13.40 you will not pull much off the batteries.

As an experiment, I did a ramp up from to 14.4 from about 13.6. Just over an amp hour went into each battery during the ramp. That's not much on. a 100AH battery.

Finding a charger that will do "the best" without being fully programable is tough. Most multi stage chargers want to drop back to 13.2V. If you do that, you pull quite a bit off of the battery ( like 25% of the capacity ). That's getting into the "ouch" range.

Another alternative is to run all the time at 14.2 to 14.6V. Apparently that keeps the BMS in "equalize" mode all the time. Some have suggested that's not a good idea. Running the cells at full voltage all the time may also be less than idea. You *do* have to equalize occasionally. Again a full programable does well for this.

At least some of the Victron chargers or charger / inverters will do what's needed. I'm not sure how many other outfits make full programable units.

Bob

pcskier · 06-29-2018, 11:53 PM

I had read bits and pieces of this thread in the past, but just sat here for an hour and read every post. What an outstanding, professional looking installation, and an A+++ for your generosity in documenting it so well and taking the time to thoughtfully write these posts and share all the steps and pics. Kudos.

Troutboy · 06-30-2018, 07:01 AM

Thanks everyone. Appreciate the kind words. I like to tinker and this was fun. It was expensive for sure. We actually bought the 23D instead of the 25 just so we could do this upgrade. It’s been worth it for us for the type of camping we do. And we lucked into the 23D which is the perfect fit for us. Not to mention all the great people that also have a 23 that share mods and info on the 23D thread!

jonvoigt · 07-31-2018, 04:49 PM

Hi Troutboy,

Your write-up here is amazing!! So impressed, nice work!!! I just ordered many of the same components you installed and this will help me a lot!!!

I'm actually from the East coast but been on a trip across the country and I'm in Denver now and plan to install new battleborn batteries, the Victron Multiplus, Color Control, and battery monitor maybe this weekend in our campsite.

Do you mind if I throw some questions your way once I get all the components this week and draw my setup out? Where did you get all your cabling in Denver or did you order online? I know I'm going to run into missing some components and want to be able to run out and grab them!

Thanks so much for the thread, simply amazing and will help me a lot!!!

Jon

Troutboy · 08-01-2018, 07:00 AM

Jon, thanks and feel free to ask any questions. PM me your email and I’ll send you mine. That’s a better way to communicate.

I ordered most things online on amazon. When I did need something I bought it at West Marine and sine things at Home Depot. west marine had most of what I needed but more expensive than amazon. But when I needed it that day, that’s where I went.

jonvoigt · 08-01-2018, 05:17 PM

Thanks Troutboy, PM sent.

Will share this question so others have the answer as well.

I want to add a DC-DC converter but confused on which one to get.

As far as I understand, I can use ANY of them but the higher the amp rating on it, the more/faster it can charge. It doesn't put more stress on the car with a smaller one but does help the batteries charge faster with a higher AMP. I guess a higher AMP, could put more stress on the alternator...

There is the 12-12-18A and the 12-12-30A as well as a bigger 50A...

Which did you install and why? How did you size yours?

Thanks!! Hope this helps others too!

Jon

SilverHouseDreams · 08-01-2018, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonvoigt

There is the 12-12-18A and the 12-12-30A as well as a bigger 50A...

Which did you install and why? How did you size yours?

I got the 18A version. Partly you should balance how much you “need” to charge during what you expect as a typical drive. My drives are almost always 3-4 hours, so that’s enough to almost cover 100% of my current capacity. If I was boondocking without sun, then it might be nice to charge from the TV faster...but then you have to balance against the 7-pin/TV. What is the charge circuit fused at in your TV? Not 50amp, that’s for sure. Maybe 30, and you should derate a bit as no circuit is designed to run at fuse rating for hours on end.

That said, so far I’ve not had great luck in my DC-DC working. Still need to diagnose it a bit, it’s finally not 95+ so I can hopefully get to the bottom of it today or this weekend’s trip.

uncle_bob · 08-02-2018, 08:33 AM

Hi

It's rare to find a 7 pin fused for more than 30A. It's also rare to find one wired with any thing bigger than 10 gauge wire (the two sort of go together ....). I've never seen a current spec on the connector it's self. I'd say it's a good bet it is rated for 30A max.

Your DC/DC converter might be set to put out 14.4V to do a full charge on the batteries (it also might not be ...). If you have 12V at the end of the 7 pin umbilical (wire drop, alternator running slow ....) you are stepping up from 12 to 14.4. You put in 10A at 12V and you get out 8.33A at 14.4 if it's 100% efficient. At about 90% you get 7.5A out for your 10A in.

The gotcah obviously is that a converter that puts out 30A at 14.4V, will take in quite a bit more than 30A at 12V to get that done. The fuse in the line cares about the *input* current to the converter. On top of that, it's generally good practice to stay below 80% of the circuit's ratings. Maybe even a bit more to allow the brakes and trailer lights to share some of the same 7 pin wires.

Net result - 18A is about as big as you probably want to go ....

Bob

jonvoigt · 08-02-2018, 08:34 AM

Thanks Troutboy.

I'm not really putting in the DC-DC converter to charge much but to isolate the two systems more. With the solar and a generator if I have too, I can charge them up that way if needed. I'm thinking I'll stick with the same 18A one you got then, just a light charging and this will put less pressure on the TV.

Where are you heading this weekend? We're in Golden Gate Canyon Park and around that area all weekend.

Jon

jonvoigt · 08-03-2018, 01:35 PM

Thanks Uncle Bob! I posted my reply the second you posted yours so wanted to make sure you saw I got your reply and that is super helpful!! Thanks!

Jon

uncle_bob · 08-04-2018, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonvoigt

Thanks Uncle Bob! I posted my reply the second you posted yours so wanted to make sure you saw I got your reply and that is super helpful!! Thanks!

Jon

Hi

No problem. The whole "post on top of post" timing happens a lot here ...

Bob

VTSafari · 08-04-2018, 09:10 AM

Looks like AMSolar is out of 100watt panels??? Any other suggestins for a quality panel?

SCOTTinNJ · 08-04-2018, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by VTSafari

Looks like AMSolar is out of 100watt panels??? Any other suggestins for a quality panel?

Renogy via amazon.

jonvoigt · 08-05-2018, 11:35 AM

Hi Troutboy,

Are you able to upload a higher res version of that diagram you uploaded? Or email it too me, I send you my email on PM.

Thanks!
Jon

AlinCal · 08-05-2018, 11:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCOTTinNJ

Renogy via amazon.

I purchased a suitcase solar directly from Renogy, I put things in my cart then never pulled the trigger, trying to decide what to get I did that another time or two and then mysteriously a pop up with 10% off showed up from them

and then pulled the trigger on a 100 watt suitcase. They are top notch with shipped to door in a couple days and well packaged with a box in a box plus molded styrafoam cushions.

SilverHouseDreams · 08-05-2018, 09:16 PM

Renogy via their eBay store offers better pricing than Amazon.

jonvoigt · 08-12-2018, 03:32 PM

Hey everyone, quick question...

I'm almost done my Victron system and 400Ah Lithium battery setup. This is in a 30ft bunk Flying Cloud and I've placed all the batteries and components in the front storage area which works perfectly.

Here is my current issues.

The 50Amp shore plugin runs 50Amps into the panel under the fridge. Then from there, it runs 15Amp to the front where it connected to the old inverter.

What I want is that 50Amp (or 30Amp as I have installed EasyStarts and don't really need 50Amp) to go directly into my Victron MultiPlus and then my MultiPlus to power my Panel under the fridge (central). This way I can run everything including an air conditioner off the batteries and solar.

Has anyone else done this, how do you run the cable? Technically I would have to run wire from the 50Amp cable under the fridge to the front of the trailer, through the MultiPlus and then back to the Fridge...

Super pain! I see what looks like a channel but can't really tell if it is something I can use to fish wire. Also 50Amp times 2 would be even harder so this might force me to move my trailer down to 30 Amps...

Thoughts, advice?

Thanks!