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Old 10-01-2016, 11:53 AM   #71
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NO Macho Trailers allowed when... wet in Utah

This is a sign in Central Utah near the wonderful National Parks... which I call the 'in betweener National Park Boondocking campsites'. These are usually BLM roads, barely improved grader trails... but some areas have a National Park on each side of you, while camped all by yourself.

We have camped among petrified forests in Utah that just were not easy for asphalt road access, so they remain unvisited and ignored by those wanting to avoid dust and needing crowds of visitors to socialize among.

When shale is dry... it is merely dust and dirt.

When shale is wet... it is no time to bring your Macho Trailer into this mess.

This sign on the south side of I-70 in Utah tells it all.

If you find yourself dry camped to encounter a 'wet camp'... wait until the roads are dry. Otherwise you will not have enough spare change to wash off all of the dried mud... and the tow truck will wait until everything dries up like a grey concrete...
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Old 10-03-2016, 09:01 AM   #72
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I see some reference here in an earlier response to the refrigerator door opening during travel. We suffer the same issue and I strongly suppose that others also have. This past summer we travelled to Alaska and back and as you might surmise, some of the roads just aren't great. They are better than in the past but it seems they are always a work in progress. On the way southward one day we found our refrig door had fallen off. The lower hinge point had simply broken off and the door flopped off. I wedged a piece of wood across the aisle and retained it with duct tape to keep it on for the next 3 weeks. I ordered a new door from Dometic to be delivered to my sisters house in Kansas. We stopped there on the return trip and installed the new door while there. Anyhow, back to the point of this post. Our former Airstream 30'er had the reefer door open from the left and I never could figure a good way to secure it from opening. Our current one open from the right and we have a plain ordinary coat hanger hook screwed to the side of the reefer cabinet. With a elastic bunji cord we secure it for travel and it works great. I suspect we were in the habit of loading the door to heavy and that contributed to the lower hinge failing. We plan to be more careful with that in the future.
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Old 11-05-2016, 12:23 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by Burnside Bob View Post
Ray, I'm enjoying this thread you got goin here.





Dexter lift kit--nearly got high centered on easy terrain on the way to Wyoming, and the fresh water tank only has 5-6 inches ground clearance with the stock set up. It would only take one piddling rock-in-the-road to cause major problems.





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Old 11-05-2016, 12:24 AM   #74
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Great topic, I'm new to all of this with an AS, been mostly tent camping. Looking forward to boondocking g with AS.

The lift kit, seems straight forward, does it mess with the hitch at all? Do you have to change height etc?


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Old 11-06-2016, 09:41 AM   #75
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". . .does it mess with the hitch at all? Do you have to change height etc?"

Yes. The lift kit consists of metal spacer(s) placed between your trailer frame and the axle mounting plate with appropriate bolts, nuts, washers. I've read different lift heights--from 2 1/2 to 3"--so am a little unclear on the actual lift height for my trailer. The hole spacing on the typical ball mount shank is 1 1/4 inches, so most likely you would need to raise your ball mount up two holes on the shank to maintain level on your trailer.

Suzyhomemakr has an excellent thread on installing the lift kit on his AS.

As Suzyhomemakr found, the hole pattern on the official Dexter kit did not match the bolt pattern on his trailer and he had to have a friend with a mill rework the spacer blocks to make them work. I've also read you have to grind down an open end wrench to make it thin enough to tighten the bolts.

So maybe a bit of messing around, but otherwise loosen some bolts, slip in spacer, reinstall bolts as required. Done.

My SIL says he's going to make up a kit for himself, and I'm hoping he doubles down and makes me a kit at the same time. Christmas is coming!! Hint, hint!
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:59 AM   #76
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Thanks for the info Bob, will definitely check this out after I get some time in my AS. It's amazing how far ahead you can get when you are excited and don't know what you don't know. I don't even get my AS until December and already I have planned a new solar install, potential lift kit, composting toilet, and countless other mods, lol.

I guess I got the AS bug, can't wait to just get it and try it out!

These forums are a wealth of knowledge, so appreciative of everyone being so helpful and kind

Thanks
Rich


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Old 12-03-2016, 04:46 PM   #77
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[QUOTE=polarlyse;1859603]I see some reference here in an earlier response to the refrigerator door opening during travel. QUOTE]


The slide-out pantry was our least secure closure under tow. I added child-proof straps to the reefer, pantry and drawers to prevent unintended openings.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:11 PM   #78
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Post #77... looks better than the locking cabinet hardware I am using!

Mine are more in the 'Adult Proof' department. It would take two children or one adult to get ours opened.
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Old 12-13-2016, 03:41 PM   #79
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Loose BRAKE Wires can be a future issue for you... too!

Next time you 'visit' your Airstream... throw down a rug and look at your BRAKE WIRING.

You cannot miss them. They look like loops of wire hanging over each drum. Each drum will have a pair of these brake wires.

The end of this season I do a top to bottom visual inspection of our trailer.

Either do it at the end of the season or at the beginning to visually inspect 'loose and dangling' parts and hardware... type of inspection.

I have had TWO brake wires separated on my 2014 25 footer. Once, when I checked the trailer after purchase and then again the end of this season. When either were detached... I noticed no braking issues. None... so even if you think your Macho Trailer is braking... look anyways.

Or... Better: Get one wheel at a time in the air. Spin it and have someone use the manual brake controller in your tow vehicle and... lock it up. If the wheel locks up... GOOD. If it does not lock up... get to work and find out why. (First, make sure with another wheel that it is the brake and not the controller that is at fault.)

I tested EACH WHEEL and had my wife operate the manual brake control switch. If it locks... perfect. If it begins to slow down the wheel... maybe time to tighten the drums. OK?

To remedy this issue of the 'loop of two wires' becoming separated by just a small sage brush branch, or already loose from not being crimped well enough at Dexter... I took black electrical tape and wrapped the two wires and the loop into one braid. Now there is nothing that can catch this open wiring loop and separate the wiring from one another.

There is no way that this taped braid can be caught by a bush and pulled apart! Tape it as far up towards the area above your drum. It is... awkward. It is even more awkward to be jack knifed in a ditch.

I never had this issue before. You may think the same... I recommend that ALL 'Macho Trailers' need this upgrade. With my new F350 Ford Diesel engine braking... I did not notice. In Colorado and these Mountain Passes... having all the brakes you paid for is a great item to maintain. You paid for FOUR, use all of them equally.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:18 AM   #80
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A tandem axle trailer having one brake inoperative would put a sideways force on the tongue of the trailer which in turn is trying to push the backside of the tow vehicle sideways. When on wet pavement, this could be a great way to start a jackknife experience. Of course this side force would be amplified on a single axle trailer on wet pavement.
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Old 12-15-2016, 08:34 AM   #81
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Quote:
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A tandem axle trailer having one brake inoperative would put a sideways force on the tongue of the trailer which in turn is trying to push the backside of the tow vehicle sideways. When on wet pavement, this could be a great way to start a jackknife experience. Of course this side force would be amplified on a single axle trailer on wet pavement.
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switz: You are quite right about the braking forces at work, and in addition to the forward push there was also the outward push streetwise at the hitch and the curbwise push on the front of the TV. We drove in 4wd high from the time the problem started and with lowered speed it worked even in wet braking. It was a judgement call, to pull over and be towed to who knows where, and have someone who didn't know AS monkey with the situation, or proceed slowly to Jackson Center, since we were headed that way. It ranks as our second worst trailering experience, the first being losing our TV transmission on the East Summit of Beartooth Pass, and having only brakes to come into Red Lodge MT. This was in 1972, before cell phones and before I had a CB radio. Fortunately my TV had sintered iron brake shoes built for high heat endurance, and we actually never had any brake fade. It turned out the Airstream brake linings had somehow shattered, although Dexter had inspected them just months before at AlumaFlamingo. The other side was ready to go also, and at 25 years, we just replaced both axles as a package at the Mothership.
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