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Old 05-26-2015, 06:51 PM   #1
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Leveling one's trailer

This may sound like a dumb question but I do not normally level our 25 ft 2012 AS unless the site is really uneven and very noticeable . However this week when camping at Assateaque National Park I did not notice the trailer was not as level as I would have preferred until I had unhooked.

So my question is how do you all go about leveling the trailer after it is unhooked or do you just live with it or hook back up to put the pads under it?

Thanks
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:55 PM   #2
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Do yourself a favor, and level it before. Otherwise you have to jack it up.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:59 PM   #3
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I would recommend modifying your process/checklist to be sure you check level before unhitching (well, side to side....you may have to check front to back level after unhitching).

Is there any reason you don't do it in that order?

Good luck!
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:01 PM   #4
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I have always made it a practice to do my side-to-side leveling prior to unhooking. I don't know of any easy way to accomplish this without using the tow vehicle.

Brian
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:13 PM   #5
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Leveling one's trailer

I carry a bottle jack for this as it is easy on my trailer brand, but cannot recommend the practice on some surfaces. Best to do as above.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:37 PM   #6
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Yep, we do our side to side leveling as we pull or back into the site. I carry two bags of Lynx Levelers I lay them down in front or in back of the tires on the low side. Then it's just a matter of pulling forward or backing up. Just make sure to get your entire tread onto what ever you are using to level your trailer. You can cause problems with the tires if you don't get the footprint of the tire supported evenly. Based on the level gauge that I have mounted on the front of the trailer, 1/2 a mark off is one block. 1 full mark is two blocks stacked on top of each other. Typically I put down two blocks on the ground for each tire. That keeps the tread area fully supported.

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Old 05-26-2015, 08:05 PM   #7
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Over the weekend, I watched as the teailer sunk on one side over the three days. Seems there wAs a water issue and all the water pumped out drained right down that side. I flipped which end my pillow was stationed and slowly pulled out yesterday, no damage done.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:40 PM   #8
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any tips for leveling on sandy soil? last weekend the plastic blocks on the first pass just didn't stay together, and the board on the second pass popped up and hit the trailer (broke cover on storage tube). third attempt on the 1x10 board was fine. Suggestions have been a shorter board, plastic blocks over 1/2 inch plywood, and the Andersen levelers.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:48 PM   #9
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I carry thin rubber flooring pieces to go under Legos or Andersens when on soft soil like sand
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:49 PM   #10
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Or turn the Legos upside-down
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:32 AM   #11
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Once again thanks to the forum folks for help and ideas!!
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Old 05-28-2015, 12:11 PM   #12
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I want to thn you all for the responses.

Is there any reason you don't do it in that order?
I normally do not level unless really bad as I have been told that the purpose of leveling had to do with the old refrigerators and the flow of the freon but it is not as necessary with the newer model refrigerators. So I have just eiminated the step but am now rethinking it.
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:29 PM   #13
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Leveling one's trailer

Quote:
Originally Posted by urnmor View Post
I want to thn you all for the responses.

Is there any reason you don't do it in that order?
I normally do not level unless really bad as I have been told that the purpose of leveling had to do with the old refrigerators and the flow of the freon but it is not as necessary with the newer model refrigerators. So I have just eiminated the step but am now rethinking it.

For a night, so what? For a week, who wants to chase frying eggs across the skillet on the stove. Unless the reefer is ancient (1970s), I don't think it's a concern anymore. Andy of Inland RV has addressed this several times in posts at this forum.

I use a level across the doorway to set FF-RR. And across tongue to check side-side. Use some painters tape to mark level on what I find the point of agreeable/disagreeable on the latter.

For a week I'd take a break once backed in and look things over and get the boards out. Then git'r dun. Really, the utilities access distance is more of a concern.
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