How to Fill FW tank?

[exallen]

Yes, the manual says 54 gallon FW capacity, but I think it is more like 50 gallon. I carefully filled a 6 gallon water jug to accurately measure the capacity when I sanitized the fresh water system this spring. Using a short hose section (about 10" long) attached to the jug, I used 8 full jugs plus 2 one-gallon jugs to completely fill the tank.

I believe the 1/4" hole next to the fill hole is for overflow, which I suppose would also work as a vent.

I used this opportunity to "calibrate" the Micropulse monitor, checking the reading after each jug was poured into the FW tank. Also went through the process of calibrating the gray and black water tanks; noting the readouts along the way.

Otherwise, I stuff the hose (similar to SStar's) in the inlet and let it run a slow steady stream to fill the tank. Water comes out the overfill when it is full. And yes, you should be able to find access to see the plastic tank from inside to verify the level, but it might be difficult. My tank is in the closet under the floor where the pump is mounted.

[PharmGeek]

Excellent advice - I'll be fiddling with it this weekend!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by exallen

Yes, the manual says 54 gallon FW capacity, but I think it is more like 50 gallon. I carefully filled a 6 gallon water jug to accurately measure the capacity when I sanitized the fresh water system this spring. Using a short hose section (about 10" long) attached to the jug, I used 8 full jugs plus 2 one-gallon jugs to completely fill the tank.

I believe the 1/4" hole next to the fill hole is for overflow, which I suppose would also work as a vent.

I used this opportunity to "calibrate" the Micropulse monitor, checking the reading after each jug was poured into the FW tank. Also went through the process of calibrating the gray and black water tanks; noting the readouts along the way.

Otherwise, I stuff the hose (similar to SStar's) in the inlet and let it run a slow steady stream to fill the tank. Water comes out the overfill when it is full. And yes, you should be able to find access to see the plastic tank from inside to verify the level, but it might be difficult. My tank is in the closet under the floor where the pump is mounted.

Actually, the complete water capacity is about 54 to 55 gallons, if you include the water heater.

In a "have to" situation, that water is safe to use for drinking as well.

Andy

[Jammer]

There have been a number of fill designs over the years.

Late model trailers do have a screened vent adjacent to the fill cap. It is small and finely screened, and will not relieve the air quickly enough for filling from a full-size hose.

[PharmGeek]

Jammer - I think assuming it is not blocked that this would not surprise me at all

Also - if it reads as 54 gallon - it should mean 54 gallons for the tank itself...that would be logical anyway

[helmsman]

Hello PharmGeek:

Andy said that the freshwater tank has no special vent!

I only know how my vintage airstream works. When I camp without hookups I use a funnel to add fresh water from a bucket etc. If I pour the water in too fast the air burps out and splashes all over me. I do not have a vent sufficient to resolve this problem. A very slow pour is the only way for me.

However, the tank must be venting someway or the water pump couldn't pump the water without air getting in to fill the space left by the exiting water.

When hooked to city water I open a valve in my trailer and remove the exterior fill cap. When the tank is full the water comes out the fill tube and I know I have a full tank of water.

Works for me. I'm sure your new rig is technically far more advanced than mine and should be far more user friendly.

Enjoy the life!

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by helmsman

Hello PharmGeek:

Andy said that the freshwater tank has no special vent!

I only know how my vintage airstream works. When I camp without hookups I use a funnel to add fresh water from a bucket etc. If I pour the water in too fast the air burps out and splashes all over me. I do not have a vent sufficient to resolve this problem. A very slow pour is the only way for me.

However, the tank must be venting someway or the water pump couldn't pump the water without air getting in to fill the space left by the exiting water.

When hooked to city water I open a valve in my trailer and remove the exterior fill cap. When the tank is full the water comes out the fill tube and I know I have a full tank of water.

Works for me. I'm sure your new rig is technically far more advanced than mine and should be far more user friendly.

Enjoy the life!

Look at the backside of the fill spout cap.

It has 2 grooves on the inside threads.

That's the vent when the cap is one.

That's the same as the cap we have made.

Andy

[PharmGeek]

I just filled it today - I found that even on near full blast if I kept about 3 inches of distance it seemed to keep good flow without my previous issue

I think before me putting it in blocked the airflow and thus the burps

So far so good

[acstokes]

I think before me putting it in blocked the airflow and thus the burps

This will work, but I believe you have a vent tube that is kinked or blocked. On my 2009 Classic I am able to get the water hose to hold onto the spout hands-free while air exits the vent tube.

[PharmGeek]

Yeah - I still need to see if it's blocked for sure

[wolffullmoon]

Total newbies, we are. Can not get the cap off the FW tank. I do not even know where the other tank is or how to fill/empty it.
Any suggestions on how to approach this cap? I have tried all manner of penetrating oils to no avail. I'll make a spanner to fit the pin holes but I wonder how much pressure to apply.
Thanks,

Jim and Paula Wolfe

[Farmer Dan]

Jim,
Take Pliers with the jaws spread open and in the 2 cavities of the plug. Twist the pliers handles in CCW direction and that should twist the plug out. For more leverage, a bigger pair of channel locks pliers in the plug and twisting with the handles should remove this plug.
Dan

[JFScheck]

Just be careful not to slip off with your pliers and gouge the skin.

[wolffullmoon]

I have tried to the point of almost damage and the cap will not budge. I have heated the surrounding skin with a heat gun and put all the different penetrating lubricants I can think of into the gap.

The old owner said he had tried everything too. We really need to have this thing available for a couple of upcoming trips out of the range of water hookups.

Is there a hex socket which would fit this? Probably not according to the limited clearance.

All advice is really appreciated as we haven't eventaken the trailer out yet.

Jim & Paula Wolfe

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by wolffullmoon

I have tried to the point of almost damage and the cap will not budge. I have heated the surrounding skin with a heat gun and put all the different penetrating lubricants I can think of into the gap.

The old owner said he had tried everything too. We really need to have this thing available for a couple of upcoming trips out of the range of water hookups.

Is there a hex socket which would fit this? Probably not according to the limited clearance.

All advice is really appreciated as we haven't eventaken the trailer out yet.

Jim & Paula Wolfe

Jim.

Try using a wrench that has one end open and the other end closed.

Then you can insert a long shaft or a lug wrench into the closed end. That will give you much more leverage.

On the other hand, sooner or later that fill neck will have to be replaced as it was a part of the pressurized water system.

An update would be using a 30 gallon plastic tank, that was used in the mid 60's models, along with a water pump instead of an air compressor. The only extra part would be a couple of check valves. Of course the fill spout would have to be changed to a much later type.

Many owners have made that conversion.

Andy

[noreen&sal]

I could be wrong but it looks like a 55 gallon drum bung. If it is there is a special wrench to remove it. Good luck. Sal

[mojo]

Looks a little like a water main valve for turning off the water to a house. They have wrenches designed to fit a horizontal strip like that with a large T bar at the top for turning stubborn valves.

[wolffullmoon]

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

Jim.

Try using a wrench that has one end open and the other end closed.

Then you can insert a long shaft or a lug wrench into the closed end. That will give you much more leverage.

On the other hand, sooner or later that fill neck will have to be replaced as it was a part of the pressurized water system.

An update would be using a 30 gallon plastic tank, that was used in the mid 60's models, along with a water pump instead of an air compressor. The only extra part would be a couple of check valves. Of course the fill spout would have to be changed to a much later type.

Many owners have made that conversion.

Andy

I think this trailer has a pump rather than an air compressor. I'm just not looking forward to installing a new water tank and all the mess that entails. I will have to have it done as I have no place to do the work nor the experience.
Thanks for the advice. I'm still going to try to get the damned thing loose. We can't figure how it got so stuck. It is SS, I'm pretty sure.

[wolffullmoon]

Originally Posted by Farmer Dan

Jim,
Take Pliers with the jaws spread open and in the 2 cavities of the plug. Twist the pliers handles in CCW direction and that should twist the plug out. For more leverage, a bigger pair of channel locks pliers in the plug and twisting with the handles should remove this plug.
Dan

Thanks for the advice but that did not work. I even made a spanner with hard steel pins and they bent!

[Kyle401]

Buy an impact socket with an OD slightly smaller than the ID of the filler neck. Use an abrasive cut off wheel on a grinder or Dremel to slot the socket to fit the plug.

If you can't turn it with that, I doubt you'll have any option other than replacing it. Stainless threads have a tendency to gall. If that is the issue, you may be able to chase the threads if you can get it out.