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Old 02-26-2014, 09:34 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by idroba View Post
Just some more information, not disputing your numbers.

The refrigerator in my 2014 FC 20' uses (actual measurement) 0.32 amps and that only when the flame is on, virtually nothing when it is off. The water heater uses 0.74 amps when the flame is running, nothing at all when off.

The original refrigerator fan on the (stupid) side vented refrigerator however used 0.55 amps and was very noisy. I immediately replaced it with a larger, and much quieter one and have the fan current down to about 0.25 amps when it is running.

I believe the newest refrigerator 12 volt current is substantially lower than the older ones, but I can only report on what mine are, I don't have any older refrigerators to measure.
Thanks for posting. I was floored when I measured my fridge at 0.8A. The draw actually spikes up over 1A at ignition. My refrigerator's data label does not list 12V current. The model is listed as a DM2652LBX.

Your post lead me to re-read my manual to see what I could find out about the 12V draw. After doing a little digging, it appears that this model is equipped with the "Climate Control" heating strip that is supposed to evaporate condensation under the freezer door.

My manual mentions turning off this feature if a charging source is not available, but not for my model. I thought that meant my refrigerator wasn't equipped with this feature. Unfortunately, what it really means is that it isn't equipped with a shut-off switch and the heating strip is always on when the refrigerator is on.

I'll trace the circuit and install a switch. I bet that eliminating the heating strip current draw will solve my fridge consumption woes.

Thanks again for posting some comparison data.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:38 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Kyle401 View Post

Thanks for posting. I was floored when I measured my fridge at 0.8A. ... Unfortunately, what it really means is that it isn't equipped with a shut-off switch and the heating strip is always on when the refrigerator is on.

I'll trace the circuit and install a switch. I bet that eliminating the heating strip current draw will solve my fridge consumption woes.

Thanks again for posting some comparison data.
It took me awhile but I finally found the switch on my fridge, it's inside the freezer door.
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Old 02-26-2014, 09:56 PM   #17
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It took me awhile but I finally found the switch on my fridge, it's inside the freezer door.
My manual has a depiction of where the switch should be under the model NDR1062 heading. I found some pictures online showing a small rocker switch under the upper control panel. Unfortunately, that switch is not installed on my unit.

I mistakenly believed that the implication was that I don't have the climate control heater. That assumption appears to be incorrect, but I won't be able to test it for a few days. Apparently Dometic just decided not to install the switch on some units. There is some discussion on RV.net about it.
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:27 PM   #18
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I hope you can trace out that heater and find a way to switch it off. It is hard to believe that anyone at Dometic ever dry camps with their own equipment. If they did, they would not build such things as 12 volt heaters you cannot shut off.
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Old 02-27-2014, 09:40 AM   #19
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Turning that feature OFF does make a huge difference in boondocking battery life. I was using a small solar panel simply to offset the fridge. Prior to that we would leave for the day only to return to a battery that had noticably dropped in available AH's. In fact, the fridge used as much daily AH as ALL of our other usage.
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Old 02-27-2014, 10:46 AM   #20
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I've been following this thread and wondering what the problem is. My 24' Argosy has a single group-24 flooded battery, nothing special, though I do have LED lighting. Just recently I was boondocking in weather that was in the low 30s at night (but nice in the daytime.) Based on the state-of-charge tables for 12v lead-acid batteries I was around 75% in the mornings, maintaining about 60F in the trailer while sleeping and heating to a bit over 70F when I was ready to get out of bed.
When the temp only drops to the low 30s I'm still good to go. A couple of weeks ago we boondocks for a couple of nights. Used the LED lights all we wanted, watched movies on the 12 volt TV and turned on the stock furnace to warm the place in the morning. Still had 75% on the batteries and the 85 watt solar panel brought them back by noon.

When I started this discussion the temps were in the teens and I would have needed the furnace going all night. That's when I would have liked a different heating system for boondocking.
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Old 03-15-2014, 10:02 PM   #21
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I finally had the time to test my fridge after pulling the J2 lead that feeds the climate control heater and interior light. The current draw dropped to 0.274A with the burner lit and 0.06A with the burner off.

Thanks idroba!
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