Battling condensation when snow camping

[andyherman]

My experience is if you want to cut down or virtually eliminate window condensation, put the reflectix on the outside of the windows - not on the inside.

It's currently 19 degrees outside here (no snow at present) and the windows that have reflectix on the outside are crystal clear. Those that have no reflectix (all the others) have a very small amount of condensation along the edges.

Last year, I placed the reflectix on the inside of the windows and there was significantly more condensation on all of the windows.

We had snow last week and I experienced the same conditions on my windows - those with reflectix on the outside showed no condensation and those with no reflectix (I don't use it on the inside of any of my windows any longer) had a small amount of condensation along the bottom edges.

It's not necessarily pretty but it gets the job done for me. (I'm not in an RV park and if you're boondocking reflectix on the outside shouldn't be an issue "with the neighbors".)

I also run a dehumidifier 24 hours.

That's just my experience.

[cazual6]

You have to vent out. Start by opening the vent in the bathroom and shower. If you still have problems, crack the overhead vent.

If you still have problems, external equipment will be required. Lots of folks will chime in on this.

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

Airstreams are, at best, 3-season trailers. With single-pane windows and aluminum walls, camping in cold conditions will inevitably run into problems with condensation on windows and sometimes even on the interior skin.

Best solution is usually to crack some vents to allow more exchange of air. This of course drives up your cost of heating, but the relatively moist air you create by breathing and living in that Airstream has to go somewhere. If you don't crack vents, you'll continue to battle condensation. Cracking vents probably won't cure the issue, but it will reduce the volume.

Another approach is get a genuine compressor-driven dehumidifier. We run it next to the bed or under the dinette, and store it in the shower when not in use. Many dehumidifiers struggle to remove moisture from cool air, however, so be prepared for that little extra disappointment - you'll have to run it constantly to get any results.

Finally, the most effective way to solve this problem is to use a key component of your Airstream's climate control system: the wheels. Head south.

3 seasons?....guess again maybe 2 seasons......try more than that In Montana..

[3wd67rg]

Originally Posted by Tim A.

Since our trailer was new, we (two adults and a large dog) have spent Septembers in West Yellowstone, Montana where temperatures at night can easily be in the teens. As pjshier mentions, our main solution is ventilation. We crack a roof vent and one window and run our propane furnace. Since hot air rises, it goes out the roof vent and draws in air through the window. Yes, we surely use more propane that way, but the inside of the trailer stays dry. Occasionally, we add an electric heater to the mix.

As ROBERT CROSS points out, the mouse fur on our trailer's walls helps. I also have made most parts of the windows double pane.

Tim

Tim, how do you do that?!

[Tim A.]

Our 2002 19' has the Hehr windows which only open on the bottom (the rest of the window doesn't move). For the parts that don't move, I made 1 cm wide spacer strips out of 1/8" rigid foam plastic (used for signs) and used them to space 1/8" polycarbonate sheet away from the window. Various applications of Velcro hold the spacers in place and the polycarbonate against the spacers. It does not result in an airtight seal, but the doubled panes have worked for something like 14 years without a problem. Reduces sound and cold/heat transmission.

I also made a double-paned clear glass/plastic door-window with a microblind in the space between the plastic and glass.

Tim

[Airwave503]

Andy, how do you stick the reflectix on the outside of the windows?

Quietguy, I thought RV antifreeze was just for filling the lines up for long term winter storage...are you saying just pouring some down the sink occasionally while camping will help? I use an external portable grey tank and I suspect it's freezing up near the connection outside the camper.

Last weekend was much dryer inside, but we also had 3 less people and warmer temps (mid to high 20's vs. low teens). However I cycled the air several times with the fantastic fans and I think that will be key. They cycle the air so fast it doesn't stay cold for too long.

[farafield]

Curious to know how you are powering everything that you are powering when boon docking?

[Airwave503]

Originally Posted by farafield

Curious to know how you are powering everything that you are powering when boon docking?

Hi Kim, I've got 2 100W solar panels mounted on the roof and a 325 Amp hour AGM battery for the 12V...everything else is propane.
--Jason

PS. I've got a generator as a back up, but I avoid using it. I wish my neighbors would avoid using theirs.

[sctinman44]

What water pint. removal size or model do you have ?

[Airwave503]

Originally Posted by sctinman44

What water pint. removal size or model do you have ?

Sorry, but if that question is for me (OP) I don't know what you're asking...

[gregwall]

Thanks for the excellent discussion. We have had the same problems, first in Olympic National Park last year, then this September/October in UP of Michigan.

[groundhogy]

I have been using the window kits you can buy at any hardware store.
They have double side sticky tape and heat shrink clear plastic. You are basically making a double pane window. It has reduced window condensation tremendously.

[Magnet18]

I solved the condensation issue with

1. Heat shrink plastic kit on the bedroom windows, and seal it with aluminum tape. The plastic doesn't get cold enough for condensation to form on it, and no moisture gets behind the plastic.

I left the living area windows uncovered, the small amount of air coming in them is not bothersome, makes up the shower exhaust fan air, and they are sliders, so what little condenses on them drips outside by design.

2. Run the shower exhaust fan 24/7. Stove fan when cooking.

3. Don't be stingy with the heat, i keep my place around 75 while we are there. The warmer it is, the less the moisture wants to condense on things.

2 people full timing, this has worked well for us for over a month of frequent nights in the teens, and humidity so high we had ice fog a couple times


Also
The idea that propane furnaces put water into your air and raise humidity is a myth I've already seen in this thread a few times, the water is in the exhaust vented outside. The furnace has a sealed heat exchanger inside. If your furnace exhaust is is leaking water inside, you have much bigger problems, like waking up dead. Catalytic heaters will put off water however.

[RChrisClark]

How do you attach the reflectix on the exterior?

[Magnet18]

I don't think I'm the person you're asking, but I would just use aluminum tape

[BernieMac13]

Two adults and a dog full timing in Washington's wet winters. Moisture had been a constant battle. I installed vent covers to keep the vents open always, dealt with the cold weather and used blankets. It helped a bit, and we ran one fan to circulate air during the day. Dehumidifier made no noticeable difference for us. Propane cooking was the biggest culprit for condensation for us, and using the built-in furnace was complete garbage, both for battery consumption (Seattle winters aren't solar-friendly!) and in the moisture released into our rig. Finally, particularly during the snow, we have been fortunate enough to do some fantastic driveway docking with a 15A hookup and purchased a $28 Walmart space heater. Between the vents being open and the heater, absolutely no issues anymore! I doubt this is the answer you're looking for, but maybe it'll help!

[Horsedogcat5]

I live and work on a cattle ranch in northern New Mexico. 85 Excella 31' We are below zero most every night. My two cow dogs and a cat are inside every night. I completely gave up on heat. No matter what the walls were always dripping. I ha e a good electric blanket and a small Polaris electric heater. On coldest nights I throw a blanket over the bedroom door and we all sleep with the Polaris. I got a big dehumidifier. Its in the bathroom but I cant figure out how to drain it without running the risk of freezing up my holding tank. Almost summer! Then rattlesnakes!

[RChrisClark]

We’ve been in Breckenridge for a few weeks and I have found the the quicker I get the snow off of the unit, the more that helps. There is definitely a balancing act that takes place between: shower vent open(fan off/on), thermostat temp and wet objects(towels, ski gear, boots, etc) and an outdoor drying rack(advantage is cold temps kill bacteria=less washing). Every once in a while if these doesn’t keep humidity at bay, I use a cloth and wipe the windows. It is all good.

[1919]

I agree with the small ceiling vent open, furthest window cracked open a little bit. Use microwave when possible, as the propane stove introduces tons of moisture. Out 19' Interstate has the Truma forced air electric or propane heater. We use the electric heat when on shore power or when using the on-board generator to charge the batteries. Our tanks are heated, standard. If really cold, we throw gallon of rv antifreeze in the macerator.

[Ray Eklund]

During the cold months, the interior of your Airstream is a Sauna without heat or the ability to ventilate without the resident doing something...

If you take showers, exhale water vapor and have one or more dogs within the trailer... you have to provide HEAT and Ventilation to remove excess water vapor. It is colorless and has no odor...

This is common sense if you even live in a cabin in the Rocky Mountains. We had a Fire Place, burning wood, that when reached temperature, the sealed unit blower was dryer than the biggest hair dryer to be made. Our windows at home never had condensation.

If the interior of our home frosted up and melted in the mornings, our wood framing our windows would be ruined in the process.

In a closed environment with single pane windows during Winter, you will have several problems. The high moisture will become frost on the interior window surfaces. When you turn up the heat, this melts and runs into your Airstream. You are recirculating the moisture... much like a rainforest in the Amazon. Nothing like 90% humidity, 24 hours a day...

A portable trailer is not designed to operate well in the Winter climates of the northern latitudes or at elevation. This is why the propane tanks of mobile homes in these areas are large, as it takes a lot of heat to dry out a trailer. The heating system of an Airstream is not that effective. Actually barely functions to maintain 24 hour comfort.

We would crack open windows, ceiling vents and double up on bed coverings. Yes... it does get cold in the trailer, but we slept well. Having your inadequate heater running may not help much to dry out or heat the interior, compared to your home's huge air moving systems.

Lets look at the Air Conditioning in the Mohave Desert of Nevada at 110 degrees. Same issues. Inadequate and constantly running... to maintain just a comfort level.

For those who have three or four Seasons... an Airstream is a Sauna or a Tropical Jungle. If you want it to be comfortable, it will take some imagination and practice. We survived both extremes, but neither were very comfortable.

One positive bit of advice. Have your long side of the trailer exposed to the SUN RISING in the mornings. You will get great solar heat within the trailer, and warm the exterior somewhat. That is the best I can advise. Otherwise... you now have a number of individuals offering their opinions.