Since your airstream is clear coated it can be buffed out ,using an automotive car buffer and some 3m Final inspection or equivelent you should
be able to polish out the scratches.And the "final inspection " product is not
real abrasive or damaging to the finish and it will take a little time ,should work if they are not too deep .I have used this product for a long time on my car /truck paint to remove scratches.
Scott & William -- May I suggest taking Scott's suggestion with a grain of salt at this point; ie, let's wait a bit before doing that*. Since the clearcoat is a plastic film applied to the aluminum sheet before manufacture, it is a limited and very minimal thin layer. I could imagine the value from a conservative buffing treatment to taper any edge of damaged clearcoat. It hasn't been that long ago that I was reading about a material to put into clearcoat cuts to re-seal.
* So the whole point of waiting (I mean, we're all going to bed tonight. Right?) is to seek further input on this. C'mon airstreamforum-ites!
A discussion with the airstream factory about that coating if its a plasticoat type of coating it may require another approach .Definately a prudent move
first .The product i suggested is more a final polish ,not a compound .I use to polish my moms plastic top coffee table with it when it got scratched up.So
I definatley do not under any circumstances say to use any compounding
or aggressive cut polish material period of any kind .You know canoestream
now that you mention it ,meguires offers plastic polish for plastic materials
such as jeep soft top windows and it really just fills the scratch as you touched on ,I use it on antique plastic radio cabinets to shine up the scratched surface ,that would be a wipe on wipe off ,no buffer ,and concur
that over zealouse buffing could further damage that coating.So to william
lets try a more gentler approach and hold off on the buff deal .I was not
sure that clear cote was of a plastic material .Nor do I want your finish to be
further damaged .The clear used on automobiles is also very thin ,and is a
urathane these days .It requires ,as all buffing of paint does careful and knowledgable experience of the operator /buffing person .It might be possible to have an airstream facility perform the repairs themselves so as to have your airstream back to an as new finish.
We have some very light scratches from trees too. I am concerned that buffing them out will thin the clear, and eventually we would buff right through it! So I just wash and Walbernize the trailer occasionally, and figure that some light pine needle scratches are inherent in the kind of camping we like to do. It's impossible to keep anything factory-fresh (if you actually use it).
My dealer usually does a Walbernize job, which tends to lessen the visual impact. Obviously as the Walbernize wears the scratches become more evident. Be cautious on this though if you are going to attempt to use some abrasive to "polish out" the scratches. Your attempt to resolve this problem may give you new issues.
Jack
__________________
Jack Canavera
STL Mo. AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.
'03 GMC Savana 2500
'08 Vespa GTS 250
...some light pine needle scratches are inherent in the kind of camping we like to do. It's impossible to keep anything factory-fresh (if you actually use it).
Ditto...once you get the first couple of scratches, you won't notice them or new ones after a while. Mine are also superficial and I would probably make things worse by trying to "fix" it.
I agree to no abrasive cut polishes or compounds .The possibility of wearing through is real .as I noted previouse ,experienced hands with a buffer.The polish I had recommended is a final finish material ,not any kind of compound.
mainly for bringing out the high shine and fine sctratches
In regards to tree branch scratches. Went to the walbernize manufacturers web site, they say "do not" use their cleaner polish and glaze on clear coat. But then in their claim to fame they say they specialize in Airstream care. What gives?
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