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Old 09-23-2015, 09:18 PM   #15
cwf
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Whacking with a putty knife and hammer are quicker. You may also scratch the skin and stretch out the hole a bit.
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Old 09-23-2015, 09:32 PM   #16
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I have removed about 30 hardened buck rivets using the sharp metal scraper (not a flexible one but stiff) and hammer between the aluminum sheets. This works great for pop rivets but takes a couple good wacks with the hammer on the buck rivets. It start bending the aluminum trim a little on a few around the windows so I abandoned that method and tried drilling out. Had issues keeping the bit in the center of the head.

I just took out about 150 buck rivets on the ceiling sheet. I had the sheet out so had access to the back. I used a Dremel with the router guide attachment and a router style bit that cuts from the side of the bit. I used that to shave the back of the rivet down really close to the aluminum with a set depth on the router attachment. Then they popped right off with one wack with the paint scraper. I then tried this method on some rivets I only had front access and worked well. Once I got it down, it only took a couple of swipes per rivet. This was the least damaging to the hole but did take a little more time.

I like the rivet remover linked above but I read that you had to get specific replacement bits. I may try to make a metal guide before I get into the 1000 or so I have to remove next summer.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:20 PM   #17
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Been acquiring materials, tools necessary for this shell off. I have a very tight space to work so had to move things around and such. Once the trailer frame is off and shell stored I can get to work on frame. Last night by myself i pulled off shell with forky (my assistant). That lift has been my helper in the construction of a flat in my warehouse in SF. The absolute best investment I've made in tools and I can sell it for mor ethan I paid 10 years ago.
Here are a few pics.
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:23 PM   #18
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here are a few more
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Old 10-21-2015, 12:30 PM   #19
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I guess my next question is how to make the template for the plywood. I'm making measurements for the O'D. perimeter and need to figure out how to make channel as most of this is so thick in undercoat it may be easier to make new ones.
What alloy should be used for channels?
Is it something to have formed up or available pre-fab?
thx all
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Old 10-21-2015, 03:11 PM   #20
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For the wood just lay the new down and use the old as templates, jigsaw away.
Since you're in SF(big city) it would be easy to find a sheet metal/welding shop that can fab up some chanel pretty easily.
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Old 10-21-2015, 11:17 PM   #21
59' Globester
 
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1959 18' "Footer"
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san francisco , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
For the wood just lay the new down and use the old as templates, jigsaw away.
Since you're in SF(big city) it would be easy to find a sheet metal/welding shop that can fab up some chanel pretty easily.
I'm missing wood on two corners but i'd guess one side is same as the other just flip it.

do you know what alloy they use on channel?
i saw somewhere what alloy was on channel / belly pan but can't find it now.
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:26 PM   #22
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Here is a suggestion for the "C" channel alloy. I would use the old standard 2032 T3 aluminum at 032 thick. This is a very strong alloy. It will take a good sheet metal shop to shear it and bend it to a channel. Bending the channel to form the corners is a project in itself. There are Air Forum members that have done it. You'll have to search the Forums.

The c-channel performs an important function in attaching the shell to the frame through the subfloor. I think it is important that it is strong.

I used 5052 at .025 thick for my belly pans. This is a cheaper and less strong alloy. The belly pan keeps the heat in and road dirt out. But it is not a key members of the semi monocoque Airstream structure.

Here is where I purchased my aluminum is 48" coils.

Aircraft and Vintage camper building supplies - Airstream restoration aluminum

David
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Old 10-23-2015, 10:23 AM   #23
59' Globester
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Here is a suggestion for the "C" channel alloy. I would use the old standard 2032 T3 aluminum at 032 thick. This is a very strong alloy. It will take a good sheet metal shop to shear it and bend it to a channel. Bending the channel to form the corners is a project in itself. There are Air Forum members that have done it. You'll have to search the Forums.

The c-channel performs an important function in attaching the shell to the frame through the subfloor. I think it is important that it is strong.

I used 5052 at .025 thick for my belly pans. This is a cheaper and less strong alloy. The belly pan keeps the heat in and road dirt out. But it is not a key members of the semi monocoque Airstream structure.

Here is where I purchased my aluminum is 48" coils.

Aircraft and Vintage camper building supplies - Airstream restoration aluminum

David
Thanks David. I agree about channel alloy. I wasn't sure of alloy but needs to be strong as so not to crack. I don't want to have to pull off shell again on this one at least.
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Old 10-23-2015, 12:21 PM   #24
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We made our own channels at brother-in-laws A/C shop

See post #60 of this thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f192...ne-100750.html

Measure twice, do some practice pieces, you get a little difference in the bent piece working from the flat sheets. Smart guys could calculate the stretch in bending, me on the other hand, I just try it till it fits




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Old 10-28-2015, 03:08 PM   #25
59' Globester
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFlores View Post
We made our own channels at brother-in-laws A/C shop

See post #60 of this thread http://www.airforums.com/forums/f192...ne-100750.html

Measure twice, do some practice pieces, you get a little difference in the bent piece working from the flat sheets. Smart guys could calculate the stretch in bending, me on the other hand, I just try it till it fits




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Nobody I know of has a brake over 4 feet.
Nice job on your trailer by the way.

I just got a quote forming up my pieces which ranged from 4 feet to 8 feet and it was a whopping $872..no can do.
I may get another person who can do 4 feet pieces and I can shear the widths before bends here. Then I could rivet the pieces together for longer lengths.
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