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Old 10-07-2016, 10:36 PM   #1
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1960 22' Flying Cloud
Sunlakes , Arizona
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Wall Insulation

Well I am moving right along with my 1960 Flying Cloud restore, got the wiring complete and am now ready for insulation so I can get all the skins and front and rear capsules back in place. Can't decide which route to take, Styro foam, fiberglass, spray foam any help!!!


Thanks, Cabmike
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Old 10-07-2016, 10:53 PM   #2
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google:

"airforums insulation"

it has been discussed quite a bit . . . lots of theories, opinions, options, ideas . . .

(I did 2 layers of "Prodex" with an air gap between each layer and the skins . . . I'm happy, but I'm not convinced that it's the only way or the best way or . . . it's just "one of the ways)

(can we see photos?)
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Old 10-07-2016, 11:05 PM   #3
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Having done the Prodex route, if I had to do it again, I'd probably just use Roxul. Simply for the ease of installation. Roxul has a commercial product called Fire Batt which comes in different thicknesses so you don't have to split the batts in half.
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Old 10-08-2016, 12:53 AM   #4
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Truth be told I broke the rules and squeezed 3 1/2" fiberglass batting in my walls, It has worked well for me.


Gradiens super tenui glacie.
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Old 10-08-2016, 04:43 AM   #5
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I use in my Cruiser 1954 black foam boards "X-treme insulator". The insulation value is three times higher than "normal" materials. Waterproof, needs no vapor barrier, to stick or clamped. Can be worked with bread knife! Greetings from Switzerland - Werner

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Old 10-08-2016, 10:07 AM   #6
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I used bubble foil on the top 2/3 and then packed the void with rockwool. See the blog in the link in my signature for pictures. Rockwool was great to work with and made a nice tight assembly, so I'm happy with it.

I also added foam tape to the ribs to provide a thermal break between them and the inner skin. That made reinstalling the skins harder, but seems to have made a big difference in insulation.
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Old 10-09-2016, 08:11 PM   #7
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I used spray foam.
I first used 2 component spray foam and was not real happy with the coverage nor the application.
Then I used great stuff out of the can with a triangle application nozzle. Love it! I wish I would have used it on the whole thing. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-09-2016, 08:20 PM   #8
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I can tell you this - if you use spray foam and EVER want to pull it apart and work on things, you'll hate your previous self. Spray foam is tenacious stuff. I have spent too many hours scraping it out of me 1973 Streamline.
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Old 10-10-2016, 10:00 AM   #9
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Wide-Form Vertical Foam Nozzle <--- I seriously wish I had thought of that.

First the bad news - that stuff is flammable, most things are, just saying.

Another down side is there are no/low published R-value specifications of canned foam, the best to be hoped for it R-5 after the gas blow agent dissipates and is replaced by humid air but that is the case with ALL spray foam.

After the shell interior is inspected, odd rivets normalized and rivets/seams parged over with your choice of forever-caulk... There is still the worry of the foam bucking out shell sheet metal if it gets between it and the ribs so prep work of caulking all the gaps the foam could get leverage on to cause wrinkly shell.

Since most sun heat loading and heat loss is through the roof I'd be very tempted to use this on just an eight foot wide strip down the roof/ceiling, on my 27' that is 8'x16' for 36 cans of foam if using the 16oz size cans, at a 'sale' price that's $90. :::sigh::: yeah it's tempting.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:26 PM   #10
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At the box store you also get a good discount for buying bulk😁more incentive for you. I prepped all my seams with gutterseal- it works great.
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Old 10-10-2016, 11:44 PM   #11
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"(I did 2 layers of "Prodex" with an air gap between each layer and the skins . . . I'm happy, but I'm not convinced that it's the only way or the best way or . . . it's just "one of the ways)"

X2, noticeably cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Ran wiring between the layers. Takes a while to cut all the pieces. I'm very happy with it.
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Old 10-11-2016, 10:31 AM   #12
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Has anyone used prodex between the subfloor and bellypan?
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Old 10-11-2016, 02:15 PM   #13
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I did. I lightly glued it to the bottom of the new pieces of subfloor before installing them. That way it pulls away from the flooring a bit and gives me an air pocket, as well as helps insulate the floor from the frame in theory. I also packed the belly pan with rockwool below that.
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Old 10-11-2016, 03:26 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cruiser6483 View Post
I use in my Cruiser 1954 black foam boards "X-treme insulator". The insulation value is three times higher than "normal" materials. Waterproof, needs no vapor barrier, to stick or clamped. Can be worked with bread knife! Greetings from Switzerland - Werner

http://
I haven't seen this before. Do you have any more info on the product? I'm wondering if it can even be sourced here in the states. I'm in the same boat, trying to decide how to insulate my 58 Overlander to be suitable for winter conditions in Vermont.
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