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Old 10-11-2016, 03:57 PM   #15
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insulation spray foam

With all of the interior panels in place in my 1964 Globetrotter, I needed more insulation in the roof. Ignoring dire consequence warnings, I purchased 49 cans of great stuff for wide gaps. Then i removed all of the electric fixtures and foamed around the cavities. Then opening the upper cabinet doors, I drilled holes just big enough to accept the plastic straw and foamed the entire can into the opening. I then plugged the holes with plastic plugs from my auto store. They are inside the cabinets and not visible. Back in the rear bath, I could not hide all of the plugs, and wound up painting white plugs to match the beige paint. So far it is working well.

Larry
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:33 AM   #16
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I did. I lightly glued it to the bottom of the new pieces of subfloor before installing them. That way it pulls away from the flooring a bit and gives me an air pocket, as well as helps insulate the floor from the frame in theory. I also packed the belly pan with rockwool below that.
Veeeery interesting.....thanks for the info. I have been wondering if I'd have problems if I sandwiched the prodex between the frame and subfloor. Sounds like you have done it with success.
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:47 AM   #17
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Veeeery interesting.....thanks for the info. I have been wondering if I'd have problems if I sandwiched the prodex between the frame and subfloor. Sounds like you have done it with success.
Problems like what?
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Old 10-12-2016, 11:11 AM   #18
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SteelyCal
A similar product available in the usa is called "Armaflex"

Greetings - Werner
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Old 10-12-2016, 01:46 PM   #19
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The original Airstream madness method was crushing fiberglass between floor and frame - which made walking inside nearly noiseless from hushing creaks and pops, and hushing any resonance. I wanted the same or better on my shell off project.

Using prodex would cause dimple depressions in the floor around the fasteners, maybe not immediately but the plywood would yield gradually - plus the foam would chafe, the surface texture standing tall would be erased and the fasteners become loose; this is where tightening bolts/screws would only magnify the dimples around the attachment points. It happened with the factory fiberglass to some extent but the glass strands had density that the foam lacks, the foam can/will deteriorate to just a film thickness where compression is highest around the fasteners while still holding mm's of height between them. The Prodex gasket might work if the surface area was larger than inch or two inch interfaces, foam is often used to gasket concrete foundations away from wood sills and the structure above as that is a huge interface area to spread the weight out across... and it doesn't wiggle'n jiggle nearly as much as an Airstream!

Anyhow - I used dense surplus silicone sheet, lightly sanded the frame POR-15 paint, used 3M 5200 sealant/adhesive to bond the silicone sheet to the frame, then used the 5200 above it to weld everything together as each floor panel was dropped on and screwed down. I also used the 5200 to glue the lap joints I'd cut on the floor sheets. End result is someone can dance inside the trailer and there is no guitar-body resonance or creaking/popping... AND the floor is thermally isolated from the steel frame. No wicking of water, not deterioration over time - plus the floor sheets got a full prime/paint treatment of outdoor porch paint after they were cut to fit...




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Old 10-12-2016, 04:05 PM   #20
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google:

"airforums insulation"

it has been discussed quite a bit . . . lots of theories, opinions, options, ideas . . .

(I did 2 layers of "Prodex" with an air gap between each layer and the skins . . . I'm happy, but I'm not convinced that it's the only way or the best way or . . . it's just "one of the ways)

(can we see photos?)
What he said. I used one layer of Prodex with an air gap against the outside skin, then a layer of pink stuff insulation between the Prodex and the inside skin. I would not do it that way if I had to do it again. It's A LOT of work. And I'm not convinced it's really the best way to do it. It works well, but there's probably a better way.

Of course, newer insulation products and methods have come along since I did mine. The Roxul gets good reviews for use in home construction and remodeling. I'm intrigued by the "Armaflex" product. Think i'll go Google that.

And this subject has been discussed many times here as MarkR suggests. You can easily spend the evening reading here.

Good luck and let us know how you did it!

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Old 10-12-2016, 06:26 PM   #21
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Has anyone used prodex between the subfloor and bellypan?
I didn't, reflectex and the prodex are for radiant heat transfer, didn't think there would be much of that on the bottom of the trailer.

Of note, on my AS tour a few months ago I noticed that the insulation they are doing in the belly is putting a single layer of reflectex on top of the frame before they drop the floor and gramp on it. Like they did with the fiberglass originally but now only the reflectex down there.
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Old 10-12-2016, 09:34 PM   #22
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Of note, on my AS tour a few months ago I noticed that the insulation they are doing in the belly is putting a single layer of reflectex on top of the frame before they drop the floor and gramp on it. Like they did with the fiberglass originally but now only the reflectex down there.
So, you're saying Airstream has been reading my blog, then?
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Old 10-12-2016, 10:29 PM   #23
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Reflectix is built around air pockets, they have no/low resistance against crush force the way 5mm of dense foam like Prodex displays, a continual sheet would be a vapor barrier and provide about R-0.7 minimum insulation before the tricks of radiative/reflectance properties, and remove the need for any/many additional fasteners to hold it in place.

Note: there were no belly wraps in place during the following experiment...

When I tore out the one-sheet-thickness-of-air-gap Prodex the moisture content underneath was saturated, smelled of mold too, I'd prepped the floor underside with kilz sealer paint and gasket sealed the Prodex tightly with vulkem... and it ended up trapping moisture anyhow.... anyhow, I made the sheet 'drain' towards the center by a double thickness standoff and used a nail to chew weep holes there to encourage liquid water to drain if it ever was present... maybe if the wraps were on I'd have seen something different when tearing it out.

EDIT: added photo

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Old 10-12-2016, 11:06 PM   #24
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So, you're saying Airstream has been reading my blog, then?
Maybe
They pointed out several times that it was developed for the space program!
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Old 10-13-2016, 06:55 AM   #25
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Maybe
They pointed out several times that it was developed for the space program!
Good to know that's an option now, if I ever choose to travel to space with my Airstream.
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:19 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by HiJoeSilver View Post
I didn't, reflectex and the prodex are for radiant heat transfer, didn't think there would be much of that on the bottom of the trailer.

Of note, on my AS tour a few months ago I noticed that the insulation they are doing in the belly is putting a single layer of reflectex on top of the frame before they drop the floor and gramp on it. Like they did with the fiberglass originally but now only the reflectex down there.
..and they are pinching the reflectex between the fram members and subfloor?

(I assume they are, for production ease)
thx
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Old 10-13-2016, 07:27 PM   #27
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..and they are pinching the reflectex between the fram members and subfloor?

(I assume they are, for production ease)
thx
Yep just like the way the old fiberglass was put down.
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Old 10-14-2016, 11:49 AM   #28
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Yep just like the way the old fiberglass was put down.
I wonder if I need to worry about condensation buildup, when the subfloor is warm and the outside is cold? I do live in a very dry climate, CO.

Thoughts?
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