Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-24-2014, 08:02 AM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
Thread on panel replacement

Hi Everyone, I have searched around and have not found a step by step for removing and riveting new exterior skin. I have twice as many panels to replace and am starting to worry a bit.
Are you guys shaving the rivets then drilling them out or just drilling. I do not want to make a mess out of my trailer 1950 Silver streak clipper. I have made a new frame and have the shell and frame back together and am ready to start the exterior but want to read more before i make a mistake. I have rivet guns bucking bars but just not enough experience. Thanks, John Los Angeles, CA
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0923.jpg
Views:	136
Size:	244.0 KB
ID:	222756  
__________________

__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-24-2014, 09:18 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,202
There are at least three ways to remove bucked rivets:

1) Take a spring driven center punch and put a dimple in the middle of the head of the rivet. Drill out the rivet with the properly sized bit, "steering" the drill bit to remain on center. Drill all the way through.

2) Use a "rivet removal tool." These tools help you to find and stay on center. I found that this was a fast way to remove rivets because I didn't spend so much time worrying and "steering," as described above. Problem is, that it isn't really foolproof, and you can still end up with an off-center hole. The proper sized drillbits and the rivet removal tool can be found at Vintage Trailer Supply. Rivet Removal Tool

3) Get yourself a sharp putty knife with a sturdy handle. I bought a Craftsman one that has the blade shank extending all the way through the handle to a heavy metal knob on the base of the handle. Slip the putty knove in between the panels, and then whack it with a hammer to sheer the rivets. Works like a charm, though you un the risk of slipping, hammering your trailer, scratching a panel with the knife, etc..

As for replacement, one lesson I have learned is that you should avoid using the panel you just removed as a template for drilling rivet holes. Instead, put your new panel in place, get it all lined up, and then drill the holes in the new panel using the mating panels as guides. Get a ton of clecos, and install them as you drill the new holes to keep everything locked in place.

You will probably also find that there is no sealant in the seams of your old panels. When I installed new panels, I put a bead of vulkem in between the sheets, and also gooped the rivet holes before installing a rivet. It was freakishly messy, and probably overkill, but I am more confident now tha my seams are sealed.

Good luck!
__________________

__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 06:16 AM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
I think I finally figured out how to drill out the rivets right on each time. I punch the center use the drill on slow to start the hole then switch to high speed once its started that worked great for me.
I am replacing all the C channel tied in to new skins so the only holes are the top skin and vertical ribs.. Whats the best way to drill the vertical holes out?
__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-26-2014, 03:40 PM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,202
Vertical holes in What?
__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2014, 08:29 AM   #5
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
The vertical ribs that run up and down and around the trailer to create its shape all of the horizontal C channel will be replaced
Where do you buy rivet length gauge and blind hole thingy? what size blind hole tool for 1/8 and 5/32??
__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-27-2014, 11:01 AM   #6
Rivet Master
 
Belegedhel's Avatar
 
1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,202
Not sure if I understand your question, but will take a stab at some answers. To drill out the rivets that hold your shell to the vertical ribs, I would use the same technique that you described above. The rivets look just the same, right? You should replace any solid (bucked) rivet you drill out with a solid (bucked rivet). This means that you will need to remove the interior skins as well, if you haven't already.

If you don't have clecos, rivet cutter, etc., you can buy a kit from Vintage trailer supply that has everything you need to get you started buck riveting. If you already have most of what you need, VTS also sells individual items like the rivet gauge you are referring to. This rivet gauge confirms that you have hammered the rivet the proper amount. To decide how much rivet length should stick out on the back side you just use a formula that is something like a length equal to the diameter of the rivet--try doing an internet search if you want the exact length.

The only place I used blind rivets is to reinstall interior skins and trim pieces. I bought the cheap pneumatic blind rivet tool from Harbor Freight for around $35. It will work with rivets up to, but not including 1/4".

good luck!
__________________
Belegedhel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-28-2014, 08:53 PM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
I will have all new C channel to go through the only holes I would like to line up are the vertical ribs. Luckily I had way way more than enough C channel made. I can't believe they seamed C channel pieces under 5 foot instead of cutting a longer one down. I am changing that and adding more C channel to the seams where its not there got all the windows out and a ton of rivets drilled out
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1014.jpg
Views:	127
Size:	274.8 KB
ID:	223171   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1016.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	282.1 KB
ID:	223172  

__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2014, 09:33 AM   #8
2 Rivet Member
 
Dean E's Avatar
 
1989 32' Land Yacht
Oakton , Virginia
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 44
Images: 5
Hi PLVMB,
Your reference thread for riveting repairs and panel replacements is:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f381...ment-9362.html

Many of the sealants referenced have had product name changes, and some of the companies have new owners.

The most current info is at the end of the thread. You will want to make note of (a) buck rivet methods, tools, and product measurements (drill diameters and rivet diameter, length, head style, and alloy); (b) Olympic blind rivets (which require drilling the matching holes out to 5/32 inch).

Good luck, and please takes lots of photos and share your experience.
__________________
Dean E is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-14-2014, 07:39 AM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
No one has done a step by step with pictures? I will document mine with pictures and update this thread I guess. John Los Angeles, CA
__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-22-2014, 08:07 AM   #10
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
As I said I would document my panel replacement.
step one drill out rivets. The tools needed a drill ( I prefer a lighter smaller sized drill),block of wood, center punch, sharp 1/8 bits, glasses, hammer and chisel
I use the wood to back up areas that are flimsy. John Los Angeles, CA
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1064.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	460.8 KB
ID:	224910  
__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2014, 09:09 AM   #11
3 Rivet Member
 
Vintage Kin Owner
redondo beach , California
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 188
I drill three holes and cleco then trace the original panel. I use a razor knife and cut right on the line. I cut the panel first then drill the holes. I was concerned about hitting the ALL old holes and it not a big deal.

My trailer has a flange so I flange then drill

make sure your original piece has no burrs or rivet pieces left they will scratch your aluminum if there are any spots your not sure of put blue tape on them before laying them on the new piece or put a piece of rosin paper between them(the stuff they cover floors with in construction) however the paper gets in the way of tracing.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_1127.jpg
Views:	91
Size:	230.6 KB
ID:	229545  
__________________

__________________
PLVMB is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Polishing a new panel to match an Alclad panel 66replica Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 4 09-13-2014 01:29 PM
replacement panel maznblu Ribs, Skins & Rivets 4 09-18-2002 06:45 PM
61 Bambi Panel Replacement 61BambiCanada Ribs, Skins & Rivets 0 06-07-2002 10:41 AM
Picture series-exterior panel replacement PeterH-Airstreamer Ribs, Skins & Rivets 9 06-03-2002 05:51 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:41 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.