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Old 09-08-2009, 08:17 PM   #15
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Everyone should have a doohickey for keeping their door secured!

Doohickey
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Old 09-08-2009, 08:56 PM   #16
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I have been emailing templates of the 'dohickey' or what I call a 'Suicide Door Safety Latch' to all the PM me with a request. For those of you with no woodworking aptitude I will with some sort of grovelling or bribe I can mail one as I made several extras when I made mine. The short bungies looped around the door handle if your coach has one and tied to the grab handle will do the job also. The primary reason for the suicde door for an open door to not interfere with awninig hardware. Oh, and mine has never left it's assigned duty....even when items in our coach has been tossed.
Neil
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Old 09-08-2009, 09:59 PM   #17
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WoodyWhite, Sorry to hear about your door. I was amazed at all the single airstreams at the burn this year, I think we'll put up a sign on the entrance road to tell aluminati about our Airforums camp. This year we were at 2:30 and Evolve. There's also another sort of private A/S group called Burnstream Court that's usually over in the 8/H area.
I've heard that folks make a wooden block that wedges the door shut on the door handlhold.
Hope to see ya at Black Rock City next year.
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Old 09-08-2009, 11:47 PM   #18
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I went out to further assess the trailer. Unlike A-Merry-Can, my '60 does not have the backing plates, so I will have to put them in. To open up the inner liner it appears that I will also have to pull the fridge and heater, in order to remove the wooden wall segment. This will take a bit more time than I originally thought. How tough is it to pull the appliances? Any tricks I should know?

I already have the .032, so I'm good to go there. I have a source for thicker aluminum, so I'll take what's available in a smaller size (.05-.06) and I'll work out a bending jig. I'll try to take a look at the door side and I may take you up on your offer if I find cracks.

I can only work P/T on weekends, so I can tell that this is going to take a few weeks.

Thank you all for the help, it feels possible now without turning it over to a body shop that may not understand Airstreams and aluminum. Sort of like me, but I'm learning. A tough way to learn to lock and check it myself.

I'll update as I progress. Thanks again,
Bob
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:18 AM   #19
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That's the Trick

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Originally Posted by Stefrobrts View Post
Everyone should have a doohickey for keeping their door secured!

Doohickey
Just what I made, I always wondered what you call that thing!
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Old 09-09-2009, 12:05 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Woodywhite View Post
I went out to further assess the trailer. Unlike A-Merry-Can, my '60 does not have the backing plates, so I will have to put them in. To open up the inner liner it appears that I will also have to pull the fridge and heater, in order to remove the wooden wall segment. This will take a bit more time than I originally thought. How tough is it to pull the appliances? Any tricks I should know?
You might be able to avoid the tearout if a patch in the inner skin is acceptable.

Somewhere I saw a short cut method of installing backing plates. Wish I remembered where. Best a I recall the person cut two squares out of the inner skin in the location of the hinge, and after installing the backing plates they patched the holes using aluminum cut just slightly larger than the holes. Unless you know they weren't suppose to be there, the patches blend in rather well.


Carol
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Old 09-09-2009, 02:35 PM   #21
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Hi Woody,
I'm sorry to hear of your door accident.
Where were you on the playa? I also saw lots of individual Airstreams out there, maybe yours. I was at 8:45 between B & C.
I saw a thread or blog that goes through the process of fixing a door. I'll see if I can re-find it for you. Not all doors are made the same way, so the process is different also. Hopefully yours is the easy one!
Best of luck to you.
Rich
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Old 09-09-2009, 04:22 PM   #22
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Been There-Done That!

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I always thought that the orientation of the door was just begging for trouble. I was right. My son and I went to Burning Man and took the Twinkie (1960, 18') on it's maiden voyage for us. All went well, but on the return home my son needed something out of the trailer and didn't latch the door well.
Wow! We had the same thing happen on the way to Burning Man with our 1959 Overlander on her maiden voyage with us! We stopped at the rest stop in Wadsworth, Nevada. Gemma thought she locked up the trailer (tempermental Bargman round keyed locking knob that replaced the original Bargman "refrigerator" handle lock). Five miles down the road Murray notices that the door is flapping as we drive along at 55 miles per hour! Thank goodness Wadsworth has a much slower speed limit going through town. We get out and thank the heavens above that nothing spilled out of the trailer, including our Honda 3000is generator that was very close to the door, and that we didn't pierce any of the panels, although we now have a small circular indentation where the knob slammed into the side of the trailer and the door knob assembly is slightly pushed in, along with the edge of the door being slighty warped.

We locked it up again and used some heavy duty red strapping tape along the leading edge of the door. We watched the door the rest of the way to Black Rock City and again, on the way home.

We don't have a handle across from the door to slip a wood block through nor do we have the original Bargman refrigerator door handled lock. Does anyone have any other aesthetically sensitive solutions that might work (that don't involve adding a hasp)? We're thinking about possibly a circular rubber door "stop" rivetted to the side of the trailer, right about where we now have that small circular indentation caused by the door knob slamming into the trailer. But that doesn't solve the initial issue of the door opening while traveling. Any thoughts?

All the best,
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:19 PM   #23
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We don't have a handle across from the door to slip a wood block through nor do we have the original Bargman refrigerator door handled lock. Does anyone have any other aesthetically sensitive solutions that might work (that don't involve adding a hasp)? We're thinking about possibly a circular rubber door "stop" rivetted to the side of the trailer, right about where we now have that small circular indentation caused by the door knob slamming into the trailer. But that doesn't solve the initial issue of the door opening while traveling. Any thoughts?

All the best,
I saw 'Buttercup' stretch 2 very long bungies in an X across his door. He must have hooked one ends to the awning channel and the other ends somewhere near the belly pan. It were'nt pretty but his door stays closed.
Neil.
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Old 09-09-2009, 06:50 PM   #24
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Bungees!

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I saw 'Buttercup' stretch 2 very long bungies in an X across his door. He must have hooked one ends to the awning channel and the other ends somewhere near the belly pan. It were'nt pretty but his door stays closed.
Neil.
Neil,

You and Lynn are the best! Thanks for being so responsive. We'll put a few long bungee cords on the shopping list. It's a great solution!

Thanks again,
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:19 AM   #25
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I was pretty sick to my stomach when I saw it, but as it was still attached to the Traveler I just had to keep it there the rest of the way home from about Reno. I had some long straps that I used to hold down my awning and thought about running them around her whole body like a belt, but didn't want the metal buckles to bump and scratch her in the wind. I settled on a smaller strap run around the two handles about five times and cinched down tight. Then I put a whole bunch of duct tape (don't leave home without it) across the front of the door to minimize it catching the wind. Wasn't sure if the tape would hold on top of the playa dust but it was still in place when I got home.

I thought about joining the AS group at The burn, but this was a rare solo trip for my son and I, and I wanted to spend time alone with him. I figured group dynamics would change that. We were on K between between 3:30 and 4:00. Close to 4:00. I kept looking for the AS group, and found a bunch of singles, but never the pod. I kept thinking, how can I miss a herd of Airstreams? Post-burn, I realize how big the thing is and how much I didn't see in spite of trying to see everything.

The idea of cutting smaller access patches is interesting, but as you see from the photo, I have a cabinet wall right where I need access. So, I have to dig into the cabinet and see how much trouble it would be to pull the cabinet (with fridge and heater) forward. I hate to cut the inner panels since they still have the cool original textured aluminum. But if it's inside the cabinet, it might be OK.

Well, I'll sleep on it and keep looking at it for now. Keep your suggestions coming and I'll get started on the doohickey.

Thanks,
Bob
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Old 09-10-2009, 12:12 PM   #26
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Quote:
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We don't have a handle across from the door to slip a wood block through nor do we have the original Bargman refrigerator door handled lock. Does anyone have any other aesthetically sensitive solutions that might work (that don't involve adding a hasp)? We're thinking about possibly a circular rubber door "stop" rivetted to the side of the trailer, right about where we now have that small circular indentation caused by the door knob slamming into the trailer. But that doesn't solve the initial issue of the door opening while traveling. Any thoughts?
All the best,
You could add an entry handle to the side of the door. You may not find one exactly like the originals but something in stainless steel would look good. Try marine supply stores if you don't find anything at rv type stores. This would also be helpful when your a little older and need that extra boost up.

Carol
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:05 PM   #27
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You could add an entry handle to the side of the door. You may not find one exactly like the originals but something in stainless steel would look good. Try marine supply stores if you don't find anything at rv type stores. This would also be helpful when your a little older and need that extra boost up.

Carol
I 'think' the grab handles are still available. Try VTS or Inland. You guys are a bit away from needing 'extra boosts'.
Neil.
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Old 09-10-2009, 03:18 PM   #28
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Wooden dead bolt lock!

Sorry to hear about your door, when I first bought my trailer I always used a bungi cord (sp?). I noticed in an earlier thread it was mentioned that he had fashioned a wooden dead bolt lock for the exterior. I was given one a couple of years ago from a friend and he was given one by one of his friends so we keep passing it on. There is a thread on this site about the "Domaggie, not correct spelling I am sure.

I can post a photo of mine if you would like with dimensions. Mine works well and I have traveled down many washboard roads and terrible highways and it hasn't fallen out yet. When I put in my lock it is in fairly tight and keeps the door from coming open. You have the type of door and entry handle where it will work. I didn't want to put on a external lock and hasp, etc. because of how it looks.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...-new-post.html

Let me know if you are interested.
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