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Old 01-30-2014, 07:30 PM   #15
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Frank-
Thank you so much. From your blog, it looks like you do mostly sixties work. But maybe some day you ever find yourself in need of rare parts from an early 70s classic...
Regards,
Richard
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:46 PM   #16
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Deburring

As long as we're covering technique, any good tips on deburring? I don't have my metal files with me. The only one I have is a tapered metal plumbing one. Any suggestions for that final clean-up?
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:54 PM   #17
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For deburring drilled holes, an old 1/4" drill bit stuck into a file handle is cheap and good, a dog leg deburring tool is more efficient and more costly ($15), really good is a rosebud bit in a $1100 right angle slow drill….(kidding, but it is good on bigger jobs :-) ) For deburring skin edges a smooth file or sandpaper (120 or something not too course) on a block would work OK, file towards the centre of the skin or part at an angle. If you have any Scothbrite or a "scratchy" dish pad that would work too.
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Old 01-30-2014, 07:56 PM   #18
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Oops, I forgot, safety first do not rub cut material or drilled holes with your bare hand, kind of obvious but just saying cut edges are sharp.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:05 PM   #19
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I'll add one item to the really good advise, a buck rivet should not be expected to squeeze everything together as you set it. The material stack should already be compressed. The rivets' job is to expand in the hole and hold everything in place. a 1/2" rivet should be used when the materials add up to about 5/16" thickness (in a perfect world, your milage may vary) 'dat's a bunch (10!) of .032 sheets all stacked up!

I confess that I've used long rivets in some places where the belly pan didn't wrap back over the C channel too well, then again we ain't building stuff for Boeing.
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:12 PM   #20
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Yup, the sandwich has to be tight. If there's any doubt about that or you want to be triple sure cut a little bit of rubber sheet (about 1/8" thick sheet works well) and drill a #30 or whatever in it and place over the rivet tail. When you rivet, the rivet will set as it should and yet the rubber will help squish the sandwich tight. I really hope none of my colleagues ever read these descriptions but I think it gets the idea across...
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:20 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
Yup, the sandwich has to be tight. If there's any doubt about that or you want to be triple sure cut a little bit of rubber sheet (about 1/8" thick sheet works well) and drill a #30 or whatever in it and place over the rivet tail. When you rivet, the rivet will set as it should and yet the rubber will help squish the sandwich tight. I really hope none of my colleagues ever read these descriptions but I think it gets the idea across...
I'm thinking the QC department may start some random rivet checks...
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Old 01-30-2014, 08:24 PM   #22
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Oh you'd be very surprised at what we find doing inspections…….
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