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Old 03-01-2011, 11:57 AM   #15
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I have a Boles Aero and I've replaced all the old rusted galvanized screws around the window and door frames with S/S screws. Even with the old steel screws there was no reactive metal damage. I would think S/S would be better.
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Old 03-02-2011, 05:16 AM   #16
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Hi Brian;
There are issues with using self tapping SS screws in aluminum sheeting. Galvanic corrosion is one of them, but not the most critical. Pending the grade of SS, this can be minimized to a negligent rate. The problem is in number of threads per inch on a screw, and thickness of aluminum sheeting. With 0.035" thick aluminum you only get a half threads worth of bite which is usually further pre stressed by over tightening the screw. Second and most important is the issue of flex and vibrations in the trailer while on the road. The very minuscule grip gets even further pre stressed to the point where screws loosen up and eventually fall out. The guy following you finds them later in his tires.

Standard pop rivet is better than a sheet metal screw. While grip contact area is much greater that that of a sheet metal screws, you may encounter other issues.
You will contend with a hole in the head of the rivet for one. Secondly, pop rivet pin often tends to break right by the head of the draw pin, thus allowing head of the pin to fall out. This is most common when selecting too short of grip range. Eventually, in this situation as the rivet loosens up with time they begin to leak.

The Olympic Rivet is designed to offer most support when it comes to sheet metal and it should be used exclusively in such applications. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 03-02-2011, 06:12 AM   #17
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Boat Dock:

Thanks for the info. I went and bought the Olympic rivets. Job is done and looks good. I know somebody who has the rivet shaver and they will let my borrow it.

Brian
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:23 AM   #18
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Blind Pop Rivets

[There are pop rivets that have the end sealed so that it can't leak through.They can be used on gutters or anywhere there is a leakage possibility. You would still have to put something in the outside hole where the mandrel broke on installation but it would be strictly for cosmetic purposes.
Regards nm1oqrz


The problem with pop-rivets is that they have a hole in the middle once you rivet them into place, so they tend to leak. You could fill the hole with vulkum, but that would look ugly imo.

When I installed new roof vents, and new running lights, I used stainless steel screws. They were recommended by our local AS dealer for the roof vents as well.

I treated them pretty much like Olympic rivets in that I shot a dab of vulkum in the hole before installing the screw. So, they should work just fine for you on your project. If you have access to the interior, you can add vulkum on the backside of each screw as well as added security against leaks. The only real difference I think between the screws and the Olympic rivets will be the look. Both will function well and not leak if sealed during installation.

Chris[/QUOTE]
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:32 AM   #19
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There are pop rivets that have the end sealed so they can't leak through. They are used on gutters alot. You will stil have to put something in the outside hole where the mandrel broke off during installation but it is strictly for cosmetic purposes
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Old 03-03-2011, 08:50 AM   #20
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The Stainless screws would probably outlast you.However,what I have done is to spray paint the threads and bottom of head with silver paint .Any overspray on the top of head can be removed with thinner when installed.
I will be modifying my heat shield on my 65 too soon,so post so pics of your progress.
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:12 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boatdoc View Post
Hi Brian;
There are issues with using self tapping SS screws in aluminum sheeting. Galvanic corrosion is one of them, but not the most critical. Pending the grade of SS, this can be minimized to a negligent rate. The problem is in number of threads per inch on a screw, and thickness of aluminum sheeting. With 0.035" thick aluminum you only get a half threads worth of bite which is usually further pre stressed by over tightening the screw. Second and most important is the issue of flex and vibrations in the trailer while on the road. The very minuscule grip gets even further pre stressed to the point where screws loosen up and eventually fall out. The guy following you finds them later in his tires.

Standard pop rivet is better than a sheet metal screw. While grip contact area is much greater that that of a sheet metal screws, you may encounter other issues.
You will contend with a hole in the head of the rivet for one. Secondly, pop rivet pin often tends to break right by the head of the draw pin, thus allowing head of the pin to fall out. This is most common when selecting too short of grip range. Eventually, in this situation as the rivet loosens up with time they begin to leak.

The Olympic Rivet is designed to offer most support when it comes to sheet metal and it should be used exclusively in such applications. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
Now that is useful information,,,Never would have known that.

Shane
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Old 03-03-2011, 01:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nm1oqrz View Post
There are pop rivets that have the end sealed so they can't leak through. They are used on gutters alot. You will stil have to put something in the outside hole where the mandrel broke off during installation but it is strictly for cosmetic purposes
Regards nm1oqrz
Hi nm1ogrz;
Yes, they will not leak through pull pin hole. Fill the hole mainly for cosmetic reason, although it is not good to have dirt and water in it. With years aluminum sealed rivet may corrode and develop a leak as the seal cap is not very thick above the pull pin head. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
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Old 03-03-2011, 02:57 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Boat Dock:

Thanks for the info. I went and bought the Olympic rivets. Job is done and looks good. I know somebody who has the rivet shaver and they will let my borrow it.

Brian
Pictures? I have a water heater install in the near future and would really like to see how yours ended up.
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Old 03-08-2011, 02:01 AM   #24
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screws

What about aircraft grade aluminum phillips screws???
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Originally Posted by Lothlorian View Post
Norm:

I just realized today that I am going to have to make modification to make the hot water heater fit. I have the aluminum angle iron fitted around the hot water heater for support. I will have to raise the bed frame off the ground a little but I think it will work. I am all ready to go with finishing the water except the weather is not cooperating. I still have not made the decesion with either screws or rivets.

Brian
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Old 03-18-2011, 02:26 AM   #25
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Hi Brian;
There are issues with using self tapping SS screws in aluminum sheeting. Galvanic corrosion is one of them, but not the most critical. Pending the grade of SS, this can be minimized to a negligent rate. The problem is in number of threads per inch on a screw, and thickness of aluminum sheeting. With 0.035" thick aluminum you only get a half threads worth of bite which is usually further pre stressed by over tightening the screw. Second and most important is the issue of flex and vibrations in the trailer while on the road. The very minuscule grip gets even further pre stressed to the point where screws loosen up and eventually fall out. The guy following you finds them later in his tires.

Standard pop rivet is better than a sheet metal screw. While grip contact area is much greater that that of a sheet metal screws, you may encounter other issues.
You will contend with a hole in the head of the rivet for one. Secondly, pop rivet pin often tends to break right by the head of the draw pin, thus allowing head of the pin to fall out. This is most common when selecting too short of grip range. Eventually, in this situation as the rivet loosens up with time they begin to leak.

The Olympic Rivet is designed to offer most support when it comes to sheet metal and it should be used exclusively in such applications. Thanks, "Boatdoc"
What about cherrymax rivets? What is the difference between cherrymax and olypic rivets and which style pop rivets are best to use?
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:51 AM   #26
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I used S.S. screws on all the roof vents and on the bottom of the wall for the belly pan. The thought on the belly pan was so I could remove the pan if got damaged or if I wanted to get in there. I vulkumed the screws inside and out so I don't think they will loosen up.
Still not sure if this was the way to go, I might pull the screws on the belly pan and use buck rivets.
Thanks for the info here.
Doug
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Old 03-18-2011, 08:56 AM   #27
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Quote:
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I used S.S. screws on all the roof vents and on the bottom of the wall for the belly pan. The thought on the belly pan was so I could remove the pan if got damaged or if I wanted to get in there. I vulkumed the screws inside and out so I don't think they will loosen up.
Still not sure if this was the way to go, I might pull the screws on the belly pan and use buck rivets.
Thanks for the info here.
Doug
I'm curious, how do you plan for someone to be inside the belly pan to buck the rivets while you drive them from the outside?
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Old 03-18-2011, 09:04 AM   #28
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I'm curious, how do you plan for someone to be inside the belly pan to buck the rivets while you drive them from the outside?
The inside skin is still off right now, I will be installing that in the next few weeks.
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