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Old 01-06-2008, 07:49 PM   #15
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AeroWood, you raise a question I ask myself now and then--is a #21 drill bigger or smaller than a 5/32" drill? Why? If the rivet is 5/32"? I guess I should go look at my drill box.

Zep
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Old 01-06-2008, 10:45 PM   #16
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5/32 is .15625 and a #21 is .159 and gives a 5/32 a little clearance for the rivet to slide into the hole.

Kip
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:01 PM   #17
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excuse me for butting in and asking a dumb question:
are you/we required to use "traditional" (bucking) rivets for connecting the shell and belly to the channel? I am not at that point yet but was assuming I could use olympic rivets at this location? not true? Is it a structural reason?

great thread.

thanks, mark
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Old 01-06-2008, 11:13 PM   #18
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My opinion: I would do everything I could to use bucked rivets. They are stronger and less likely to leak. They're also less expensive, enough to justify purchase of a rivet gun and bucking bars.

Can you use Olympics? Yes. Will they fail sooner than bucked rivets? Probably, but who knows whether it will be after 10,000 miles or 100,000 miles.

If your rivet line is close to the floor, you may run into problems with clearance for the legs. I know on my '59, the rivet line was very close to the bottom of the floor channel and there were areas where i would have needed to start a new row if I was using Olympics.

The FAA will not allow the use of Olympics except where specifically approved by the airframe manufacturer.

However, an Airstream is not an aircraft.
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:41 AM   #19
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You can also try aircraft tool supply.... I buy most of my sheet metal tools from them.
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/
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Old 01-07-2008, 12:37 PM   #20
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I went and took the plunge, my riveting set is on the way.... I followed Aerowood's recommendation and ordered the set so I will be able to go rivet right out of the box. I am still a few weeks away from doing any riveting, but I want to have it all on hand when the time comes. Now if my gray tank would show up I could be making some real forward progress.
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Old 01-07-2008, 12:54 PM   #21
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I went and took the plunge, my riveting set is on the way....
Another day, another $$$
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Old 01-07-2008, 01:02 PM   #22
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Now if my gray tank would show up I could be making some real forward progress.
If you don't mind giving info on your gray tank
What size?
Ordered from who?
How much?
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:42 PM   #23
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Are you kidding? You can ask me anything.... The tank is sold by RV Parts and Accessories for Sale it is 30 gallons and is 22.25 x 52.375 x 8.5 I know, I know, it drops below the belly pan, but only part of it will for it has a sloped bottom. I am mounting it directly behind the rear axle and it will have the dump valve much like the new units do. I am re using the black tank and valve in their original location. PPL has great prices and the fresh water tank and pump and accumillator came almost right away. The grey tank seems to have gotten caught up in a holiday closing at the factory. The weather here in Maryland is spring like this week and I would like to jump on painting the frame while it is so warm. I might move forward with the paint even though there will be some welding still to do.
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Old 01-07-2008, 02:44 PM   #24
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Steve, I hope you did that at work so you could get paid to create that.
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:26 PM   #25
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Steve, I hope you did that at work so you could get paid to create that.
Some Mountain Dew saturated Gen X'er wasted his time making that animated gif... I just pasted it in with a few clicks of my time.

Yes, I am at work... since 4am, but soon I'll be swinging by Harbor Freight on my way home. :-)
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:36 PM   #26
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Leave your wallet at work, Harbor freight is deadly o the billfold. Lots of cheap stuff that adds up to pile of money.
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:03 AM   #27
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Quote:
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excuse me for butting in and asking a dumb question:
are you/we required to use "traditional" (bucking) rivets for connecting the shell and belly to the channel? I am not at that point yet but was assuming I could use olympic rivets at this location? not true? Is it a structural reason?

great thread.

thanks, mark
Ok, I'm finally "at that point" (man i'm slow) and I think I ordered the wrong rivets. I ordered "AN470A's" and I'm thinking I should have ordered "AN470AD's". I haven't installed them yet so I can still order the AD's.

The specs are:

The "A's" have a Tensile strength of 16,000 psi and do not list a Shear Strength

The "AD's" have a Tensile strength of 38,000 psi and a Shear strength of 26,000 psi

I know stronger is better . . . is it also necessary in this case?

Thanks, MarkR
(oh and this is for an exterior panel replacement)
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:45 AM   #28
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The factory used AD, I used AD. It will always bother you if you use A instead of AD.
The A rivets are as soft as butter.
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