To mark the corners I used the what was left of the old floor then bent a piece of aluminum over the points I had.Lucky for me most of the old floor in the front and back was intact.
Three panels across the top of my trailer were replaced by the PO.He used the method of drilling all new holes in the frame so the frame is like swiss cheeze and will not stand more holes. I will have to pick up the old holes somehow and maybe add some reinforcement to the frame.
He also used explosive rivets everywhere. They would be easy to install, too bad no longer available.
Malcolm, Andy says he has the end panels.Just email him with a photo of where the panel goes with year, model and s/n of your trailer.
Scribing an arc sure would not have worked for my rig. The curves on a 1973 31' are definitely not simple circular arcs. On mine there was enough stability on one side of the back for me to be able to make a template out of poster board following the inner curve of the body. I just trimmed with scissors until if fit right. I then had to enlarge it by 1-1/2" when I transfered it to my plywood. I was able to use the same template flipped around to trace the other side too. The front curves are also not the same as the rear curves. Maybe they are supposed to be but they definitely did not seem to be on mine cause I used the same cardboard to make a template for the front when I was done with it for the back. It would be nice if there was an official published pattern somewhere that we could all use when there isn't enough to work with from the actual trailer. You know - one of those types of drawings with little squares that you can transfer to your drawing with bigger squares. Once I had the curve drawn on the plywood cutting it with my saber saw was easy.
This is not a tool for the novice. We have one at work and I've seen the men go through a whole sheet of aluminum to get one panel that fits.Again try Andy or an Airstream dealer.
Going on what And said about replacing a panel. My question is, would using bucked rivets be a problem? One of the guys I work with has experance buck riveting from his days as an aircraft maintenance tech. He has offered to help out with my trailer and even make the bucking bars and rivet tools for the right size rivets. I just do not like using a "pop" type rivet on the out side skin. If I have too I will, but heck I have a chance at "original"
__________________
Tedd Ill
AIR#3788, WBCCI#4028
1967/8 Overlander International Twin w/ bunk/s.
Yes, four kids and two adults in the thing.
Happy wife, happy life.
It is my understanding that the bucked rivits would be great. The Olympic pop-rivit type are a necessity if you can not get to both sides of the skin to do the riviting. They are also a lot easier for someone who does not have any riviting experience or must do it all by themseleves. If you have someone with riviting experience I say go for it.
Got the new sheet all lined up and drilled and clecoed yesterday.Removed it this morning.Deburred and cleaned up holes.Put a whole tube of vulkem on everything the reinstalled panel with clecos.Gave my wife a five minute lesson in bucking rivets then went at it.Really happy with results.Can't wait to get back to work to tell sheet metal guys my wife does a better job bucking rivets than they do.Really proud of her.
That's the big one done.A few clecos left on front edge to tie in new front panel.Next time I'll use .040" per Andy's advice,it would be a lot easier to keep flat.Now I'm trying to figure out which panel to do next.
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