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Old 02-15-2004, 03:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally posted by Ken Johansen
Ahhhh, Brett

Your right - its a 59 Overlander International - although it does not have any Overlander badging on it. I just bought it last weekend to replace my 59 Traveler that I sold last June.

Really like the 50's trailers

Still have the Tradewind - that does not need any repair - we will keep the Tradewind until this one is fully restored, if thats what we decide to do with this one.

Ken J.
You sure that's a 59? The windows and Wheel wells are 58 style. Must have been one of the first off the line. Did you run the SN#?

That side pannel is the eaisest to replace. It's flat and it's the last peice they install at the factory. We figured out that the body is on the frame when that peice is installed. There are rivets through the belly pan into the ribs that are covered by the pannel. The lower rear curve should also be no big problem as it seems to be flat as well.

That first pannel into the end cap....that's a problem. That peice is convex. How bad are the creases.

I have drill out a few from the backside. It was the rivets installed before the side was installed. I's dificult and you end up ovaling the hole. I would avoid it.
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Old 02-15-2004, 08:29 PM   #30
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Don - yeah that looks like it would be tough to back drill. Oh well it was a nice idea.

Toaster - ooooooooops - see I still have my 59 on my brain really miss that trailer. You are correct - it is a 58. SN 7076 - which would make it fairly early 58...?

I figured it would not be too bad to replace that sheet and the same sheet on the other side - all other panels are OK.

I figure its not overly difficult, just time consuming.

Ken J.
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Old 07-01-2004, 11:02 AM   #31
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The way they pick up holes at work is to lay a sheet of lexan over the repair area then drilling through the lexan to the holes while holding it in place with clecos.Sometimes they cut the lexan into strips picking up two known holes first. The cost would be prohibitive on a large home repair but on a smaller one it may help.I will try to borrow a corner drill for my big project so I can back drill all holes.
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Old 07-01-2004, 11:15 AM   #32
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I see your planning to replace a couple of large panels - please be sure to keep up posted. Thanks

Ken
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Old 07-01-2004, 05:41 PM   #33
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Here are a few photos to show what I'm up against.
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Old 07-01-2004, 06:12 PM   #34
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Couple of thoughts - you might want to try to get behind and slowly work out photos #1, no 2 may come out with a suction cup (or could work from rear or combination of), #3 could hide lots with a stone guard, #4 rear door should not be hard to duplicate and #5 not sure what I'm looking at other than a lot of pitting which you could do a lot of polishing on and it would pass the 10 foot test.

Anyway, just a couple of ideas ......

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Old 07-01-2004, 09:35 PM   #35
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It's hard to show in pictures just how bad the panels are.The last photo is of the aft roof panel.It has a large area that is badly pitted.I will try this weekend to salvage that panel with the Nuvite F9.The lower panel aft of the door is badly stretched from years of abuse (same on curb side) and no ammount of pounding would ever make it flat.The front panel is badly corroded from the battery and a poor stone guard installation.As for the aft compartment I want to eliminate it that will be the easiest job of all.In the end I want to have a very clean looking trailer.
I ordered a 32' roll of aluminum from www.airpartsinc.com today.From that I will get the curb side panel, the front wrap around panel, the rear panel and enough left over to make a bunch of stringers.
The clock is ticking on this project.I really need to get the trailer closed up before the winter.
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Old 07-02-2004, 08:11 AM   #36
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Hey Mark. Great tool. Thanks
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Old 07-02-2004, 11:17 AM   #37
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Greg,
I am with you on the panel replacement. It's easier to do now than later. The result will be well worth it.
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Old 07-02-2004, 01:33 PM   #38
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Greg - looking forward to watch your panel replacement - are you gonna use olympics or bucks?

I agree Uwe - panel replacement is best.

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Old 07-02-2004, 03:07 PM   #39
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Hey Greg,
In your photo #1, as you are probably already aware, the International trim area with the wording and the two horizontal aluminmum pieces are not original equipment for your vintage of trailer. Is this one of the panels you're replacing? Maybe this is the reason you're placing it?

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Old 07-02-2004, 05:40 PM   #40
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I am replacing that panel because it is badly stretched.I'll have to post a better photo, maybe with a straightedge along side to show the ripples.That is very interesting about the international trim.It is in poor condition and held on with pop rivets.I was reluctant to let it go but if it's not original why bother putting it back on.Thanks for heads up.
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Old 07-02-2004, 07:04 PM   #41
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Greg,
That panel on mine is the same way. I suppose its from the entry door flying open doing 75 on the freeway and coming off the trailer but I'm not one hundred percent sure I may replace it too someday.

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Old 07-07-2004, 09:24 PM   #42
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I have heard that some put the new panels over the existing ones. Does anyone have any experience with this. It is susposed to eliminate leaks at the joints as well as the chance of damaging the panel above or below.
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