Uwe, now that I'm the new expert on skin replacement
what I plan to do is use Cleco's to hold the skin, get everythink lined up before I start riveting.
Ken J.
Are you getting this from Airparts? They have a little deal for spacing rivets that is not very expensive.
__________________
1959 22' Caravanner
1988 R20 454 Suburban.
Atlanta, GA
Originally posted by Ken Johansen ....
what I plan to do is use Cleco's to hold the skin, get everythink lined up before I start riveting.
Ken J.
Cleco's are ok, if you dont have to use them to hold a very large panel with a curve like the roof. If all fails use a small screw (heaven forbid) on either end for the initial hold.
__________________
Once you figure out how to do it,
the instructions actually make sense.
_____________________________________
WBCCI Member at Large
Your right - its a 59 Overlander International - although it does not have any Overlander badging on it. I just bought it last weekend to replace my 59 Traveler that I sold last June.
Really like the 50's trailers
Still have the Tradewind - that does not need any repair - we will keep the Tradewind until this one is fully restored, if thats what we decide to do with this one.
- Each rivit has a tiny dimple that allows you to start your drill centered on the head. You drill only through the head, down to the top of the skin. The rivit head then pops off. The stem of the rivit is pushed back through the hole, leaving the original hole undamaged.
- The new panel is fitted in place using carefully back-drilled pilot holes, with cleco's to hold it in place. Back-drill all the remaining holes. Note this requires access to the back side of the panel.
- Without rear access you can use the original sheet as a template for a new sheet. You need to be very carefull to center the drill bit exactly. You will get some rippling of the surface, no matter how careful you are.
On aircraft it is not acceptable to turn ribs into swiss cheese. On a trailer it may be okay.
I would seriously consider removing the interior to gain rear access. It also would allow you to use conventional rivits.
Great post... I was talking to someone yesterday who does aircraft and they told me the same thing about drilling rivets - just drill deep enough, then use a punch to push the stem through the panel.
I've also thought about back drilling - I'll have cabinets out, so it would not be a big deal.
However I'm unclear about one thing, when you say back drill, I assume you mean only where the old sheet is not over the new sheet on the outside of the trailer, or are you meaning all of the rivit holes?
Also the same person that told me about the rivets also told me you can use a hole finder?
Ken - I'm not sure what you mean by "the old sheet is not over the new sheet". Perhaps you are talking about where an adjacent sheet overlaps on top of the new sheet - which is the easy part because your template is right in front of you. For the rest I am suggesting that you:
- Completely remove the old sheet of aluminum by drilling the heads and punching the stems out, therefore not damaging the holes in the ribs
- Use the old sheet as a template to cut the new sheet
- Use the old sheet's rivit holes to locate and drill a few pilot holes
- Cleco the new sheet in place using the pilot holes
- Then back drill the rest of the rivit holes through the old rivit holes in the ribs so the new holes will match up exactly. Cleco as you go.
- Rivit it up using conventional rivits using your new exact holes.
Get help from an aircraft mechanic familiar with sheet metal repair - ask around at your local small airport. He will have the riviter, clecos, etc... along with knowledge on how to do this. The tolerance for error is small.
What do you mean by 'backdrilling'? If you mean drill from the inside, that's hard to do since all the rivets rows are on the ribs lines or inside the bottom channel. Can't get a straight shot at the hole because the holes are inside the legs of the channels. HELP!
And, BTW, I need a volunteer to help me buck rivets. Are you available, say mid-June?
Can't get a straight shot at the hole because the holes are inside the legs of the channels.
You need to get a motorhome. The ribs are like a 'Z' and you can get at the inside to buck. The bottom channel is still a problem though, one of those custom bucking bars.
What shape are the ribs - seems like they were buck riveted to begin with, so you should be able to back drill at least the ribs.
When you say the tolarance for error is small, I think I understand that you need to make sure you don't make the rivet holes any bigger than you have to.
The frame is 3/4" × 1 1/2" extruded channel. The ribs are nominally the same dimensions but are formed. The floor channel is a little deeper, maybe 1 1/2" × 1 1/2" × 1".
It's not a problem to buck the rivets back in, there are lots of offset bucking tools.
The problem is drilling straight holes from the back side without being able to get a straight shot at the hole. The legs of the channel interfere with the drill bit.
Quick Links
Linear Mode
