No I was able to repair my old drip caps enough to pass.I am held up now by the heavy rain.Trying to get lower rub rail on in front so I can close inner skin in front and start on dinette.
You can still buy those drip moldings if you need them......
where? and are they decent looking? i've seen some that look like cheaply stamped metal. i'm going to have to come up with something soon for the rear window.
By drip moldings are you talking about the piece of metal over windows. See attached. If not, what is the item over the window in this picture? Were these a extra item or did they come on some trailers and not others? Are they still amiable and where can one get them?
Thanks Don
Im new here, but my real job I am a structure mechanic on aircraft. There are alot of different ways to fit the new skin, but when I fit a new skin on a aircraft I usually fit in in place, mark all the holes I can, then use the old skin as a template to pick up the ones I could'nt. I do have hole finders I use if i have to, but be careful of oil canning.Make sure your new skin is laying as perfect as you can, if you miss drill a hole, stop and countersink both sides, one being smaller on one side, and plug it with a solid countersink rivet then sand the protruding parts of the rivet flush, dont try to stretch holes, and if you blow a hole out, go to the next size rivet which would be a 5/32 or 3/16's.
i used something like that just recently, in fact. be sure you get the right size for your rivets. they come in a variety of sizes.
depending on which skin panel you are replacing, you might not need anything. for example, on my 62 trotter, i'm going to have to replace the 2 rear quarter skins, and all the edges except the bottom are overlapped with another skin. that has 2 advantages. firstly, you don't have to locate holes. when you slide it in under the other panels, just drill back through the rivet holes and your golden. secondly, since all the edges of the aluminum are covered with other panels, you don't need to worry about a perfectly clean edge. when i reskinned my 59, the only panels i had to shear to size were the 2 ends under the windows.
now i'm finishing up the door, and there's NO way to do a clean job here without a shear and a metal break.
post pics for sure. the more we can all see, the mor ewe can help ya... plus nobody likes to read a book with NO pics in it!
Thanks Andy - Inland has been a friend to the forum for a long time. I value your expertice and envey Inland's postion for the resto explosion. Just remember us little guys
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if you miss drill a hole, stop and countersink both sides, one being smaller on one side, and plug it with a solid countersink rivet then sand the protruding parts of the rivet flush, dont try to stretch holes, and if you blow a hole out, go to the next size rivet which would be a 5/32 or 3/16's.
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