i'll be taking the side skins off my trailer the weekend after next. when you took off the top panels on each side, did you remove the window as well? or try to leave it attached to the trailer somehow? just want to know what to plan for. i assume i can swap out both lower panels pretty smoothy, seal and rivet them along the bottom edge, and the sides, then tackle the upper panels. i'm just not 100% certain how the upper windows attach.
I replace to upper panel first, to minimize scratching on the lower panel,but the lower panel could be replaced first and some plastic taped over to protect.I drilled the windows right out first when replacing the upper panel.They are held in just with the rivets around the outer edge.I made two short cuts in the bottom of the new panel where the window cutout is to start the cut for the window.This was a 16 foot long panel and it needed to have some rigidity so didn't cut till in place.
i remember noticing that on your pics with the door opening. did you cut that with a roto-zip or jig? my nibler won't get close enough to the door frame. i'll try taping the bottom. as for scratches, when i unrolled the last piece of 032 for the rear corners on mine, i heard that horrible slipping sound... and now it's got scratches! &*#%@!! oh well.. if those end caps will buff out, so will the new scratches. did you have trouble lining the door up again, once you got the side panels on?
I made the door cut with the hand shears,the rotary grinder and a file.The door fit fine after the new skins.I had to line everything up and drill holes for hinges and I got it right.
hey greg, did you have any leaking in your endcaps when you went through all the skin? i think we have a leak from between the seams, and was wondering the best way to repair it. i was planning on just drilling out the rivets when i get the upper panel off, revoving each panel, resealing and re-installing... but if there's an easier way, i'm all ears! i want to make sure there are NO leaks when i'm done, as i'm planning on wood interior walls. saturday is planned for the street-side, with sunday to finish it up... or start on the curb. i gotta get this thing water-tight, it's killing me!
I had no leaks where I had replaced the skin but did have a few where the old skin remained.At those seams I drilled out rivets and resealed.I had a tiny leak at the front end cap where the od panel meets the new at the roof.I put a bead of Vulken along the edge Saturday and it did not leak yesterday with it raining tabbies and terriers.
Are you planning on replacing the interior skin with wood or are you going to put the wood over the interior skin?
Ken
my plan, after chasing down all the leaks, is to put the original innter skin back on, then line that with wood. there's a great supplier of flexible plywood here in atlanta. i'm not 100% certain how i'm going to handle all of the details until i get to that point. i do NOT want to find leaks after the fact, though!
I had no leaks where I had replaced the skin but did have a few where the old skin remained.At those seams I drilled out rivets and resealed.I had a tiny leak at the front end cap where the od panel meets the new at the roof.I put a bead of Vulken along the edge Saturday and it did not leak yesterday with it raining tabbies and terriers.
how did you seal the seams without removing the panels? i assume you just spread them ever so slightly and inject the vulkem somehow? i'm concerned with getting enough sealer at the edges, around the window in particular.
Thats good because the interior aluminum skin is an important structural component of the trailer....
Airstream dreams sells a siringe (sp) for injecting Vulcem in tight seams. Also you can use Parbond or Aloca gutter seal - both products will "wick" into the seams. Around windows, I would say most of use Vulcem because the gap around the window is large - you need to scrape all the old stuff out and seal.
Where I drilled out rivets I had to use a putty knife to dig out dried up tar sealant that was used then there was just enough room to fit tip of Vulkem tube and inject sealant.
my plan, after chasing down all the leaks, is to put the original innter skin back on, then line that with wood.
You may want to consider putting a thin veneer on the panels wbefore you reinstall them. It would be a lot lighter than plywood and you could attach the 'wood-panel-look' at the same time with the same rivets. Simplifies the installation of wood panels in my mind...
Just my unsolicited two-cents ~
Shari
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You may want to consider putting a thin veneer on the panels wbefore you reinstall them. It would be a lot lighter than plywood and you could attach the 'wood-panel-look' at the same time with the same rivets. Simplifies the installation of wood panels in my mind...
Just my unsolicited two-cents ~
Shari
i thought of that, but i wasn't sure about the long term effects of gluing wood to metal. i assumed they would expand and contract at different rates, which would cause separation and bubbling later on down the road (no pun intended). i've got a while to noodle around the options before i get too far into it.
I replace to upper panel first, to minimize scratching on the lower panel,but the lower panel could be replaced first and some plastic taped over to protect.I drilled the windows right out first when replacing the upper panel.They are held in just with the rivets around the outer edge.I made two short cuts in the bottom of the new panel where the window cutout is to start the cut for the window.This was a 16 foot long panel and it needed to have some rigidity so didn't cut till in place.
i'm at this stage now. i'm not cutting the window until the panels are in as well. i figured i'd do as you suggest, and drill a smal hole in the top corners of the window openings, to get it right. each panel goes in quicker and easier than teh one before... thank god! hopefully this weekend will be it!
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did you have trouble lining the door up again, once you got the side panels on?
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