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Old 08-26-2016, 06:43 PM   #15
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I see that Northern Tool also sells an english wheel, I would pick that over HF. I wonder how well it might work: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...0087_200660087

$329 plus shipping, can avoid shipping by having delivered to store. Must buy extra lower wheels separately (comes with one)
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Old 08-26-2016, 06:51 PM   #16
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I would agree that removing dents to automobile quality is very difficult and time consuming. Airstream skins in my opinion are not in the same league due to the method of fitting them together or being attached with rivets. My guess is that we know this and accept those changes as "normal".

As to creases, if you had the skin off and you annealed it then the crease would likely repair to a point that would be better than acceptable. I annealed most of those 5 skins. Annealing really does give the metal a chance to release the dent caused stresses and also softens the aluminum so that it moves easy.

Yes China made equipment is more like a kit, you purchase it and then build or rebuild it. That is why I checked it for accuracy to ensure it would spin correctly, don't quote me but I remember something like +-.002. The anvils in my machine are very nice, no complaints there.

I did make some patches to cover where the old antenna was, and at the place the tree smash the rear skins. To make the aluminum circuit into a compound bend I needed to turn the power up to shape the curves I needed to match the location.
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Old 11-13-2016, 05:36 PM   #17
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Not a Hijack, but I am into this thread.

Bought mine from an estate sale 2 weeks ago.
It was about $50 or $60... I sale about because I originally agreed $70, but piled a bunch of other stuff around it and ended up getting a package deal with a ton of other tools..


It is a HF unit, but it is one of the better, welded ones and Identical to the Baileigh EW-28, which is $800...
I only got one lower anvil, but grabbed a set from HF for $55 with a coupon.

So, it is my understanding that these are good units but need some fettling and mods, which I am ok with, at about $100 invested so far.

The first thing I did, was check the upper wheel runout, and it was not good.
I made a mandrill, and chucked it up in my lathe.
Breaking thru the hard chrome layer, took a carbide tip, but it trued it up and allowed me to get a better finish on it.



That done, I set out to learn to "Wheel", which I have never done before, but I am normally a quick study.
Decided to do a test piece that would be a smaller scale test for a rear wrap.
After a couple of hours, this is what I made...



A quick buff showed me how it was...




The machine does need some stiffening by adding a backbone, but this small test was done without it.
Small investment, lots of potential!

Quick video of test piece...
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Old 11-13-2016, 07:03 PM   #18
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Yes, it is a great skin repair tool. I found that the five repair skins in my rear end cap returned to the same place after wheeling. Needing very few Cleco clamps before riveting.

I must admit I now look for damaged AS to see if I should purchase to restore the damage skins.

Looks good. The trick for me was trying to match the original surface finish. I ended up hand sanding with various coarseness of steel wool.

Repairing parts takes practically no pressure.

I did make three patches and found that the pressure would distort the backbone.
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:19 AM   #19
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I have a coach builder friend who worked this out.
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:12 AM   #20
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Were to buy:

A few additional options and "How to do" stuff.

http://search.eastwood.com/search?w=english+wheel
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Old 01-08-2017, 08:24 AM   #21
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I severely damaged left front corner banana wrap dented and bad crease. A shop wheeled it no stretch of aluminum, no prep before nothing after can not even tell was damaged but this shop is a pro shop that spec. in fab. work, mostly custom cars but will do any type of metal work. Little exp. but less cost than plastic wraps plus keeps vintage intact. Bill
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Old 01-08-2017, 01:42 PM   #22
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Can someone refresh my memory on what Aluminum to buy to replace a panel?
And thickness?
I have to make this rear RH mid, and lower, that some PO dented.
The upper was made worse by repairing with a slide hammer and screws...


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Old 01-28-2017, 12:38 PM   #23
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Keyair I use 2024t3 you can get it from aircraft spruce ..I would use 0.040 for that panel... good luck..
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Old 01-28-2017, 01:17 PM   #24
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2024T3 works great on flat panels and those with a simple curve (one direction only), but it is pretty stiff and easy to crack. I'm not sure you'd be able to work it into the compound curve I see on that upper panel. I'd recommend researching other alloys (that's the 2024 part) and other heat-treat levels (that's what T3 indicates) before you buy.
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Old 01-28-2017, 06:15 PM   #25
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I found this info which says:
1983 Alcoa 3003‐H18 .032 Controlled mill finish

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...92c0a731f5.pdf
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Old 01-29-2017, 04:38 PM   #26
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I would just fix that panel, if you have extra holes from the PO I would make a single patch or try rivets in those holes.

I all case you are going to pull that skin, so why not clean the inside and English Wheel it? Anneal that area if need be, just make sure you work the part directly after annealing.
steve
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Old 01-29-2017, 04:46 PM   #27
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Good point and advice.
Also, 3003 is very weldable, so might take a shot at filling those holes then wheeling it a little...
What is the worst that could happen!
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Old 03-23-2017, 09:11 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgschwend View Post
As to creases, if you had the skin off and you annealed it then the crease would likely repair to a point that would be better than acceptable. I annealed most of those 5 skins. Annealing really does give the metal a chance to release the dent caused stresses and also softens the aluminum so that it moves easy.
What is the procedure for annealing?
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